ITALIAN NANGA PARBAT EXPEDITON LEADER REINHOLD MESSNER
Messner climbs new line on Nanga Pabat
AUGUST4-2000
By
Asem Mustafa Awan
ISLAMABAD
— The South-Tyrolian expedition to Nanga Parbat led by Reinhold Messner
world's elite alpinist and member European Parliament, succeeded in
climbing a new line on Nanga Parbat.
The
expedition reached 7500 metres on the North Face of Nanga Parbat before
turning down due to fresh snow on the higher altitude.
Three
members Reinhold Messner, Hans Peter Eisendle, Wolfgang Thomaseth out of
the five managed to reach 7500 metres on the North Face which then joins
the Czech Route on Nanga
Parbat.
"The
expedition was a success," said Reinhold Messner while addressing a
Press conference at a local hotel adding," We wanted to climb the new
route and we were successful in accomplishing what we came for."
The
expedition turned back from 7500 metres on July 29 before making a bivouac
on 7200 on July 28.
Messner
termed Nanga Parbat as his most memorable climb he said," I lost my
brother on the way down from the peak in 1970 and part of me died with it
on the return."
"This
is a second life for me," he said adding," I climbed it solo in
1978 and this time I was here to do what I always wanted to do."
Messner
pointed out out that the current trends in the mountaineering are not very
good and very few people are
following doing the variation.
He
stressed on developing the infra structure saying Annapurna in Nepal
attracts over 20,000 trekkers in a year while on Nanga Parbat it is in
hundreds.
He
pointed out at the difference of approaches practised between Pakistan and
Nepal saying that Nepal has a good infra structure to felicitate the
climbers.
He
said," Commercial expedition charge 60,000 US dollars per climber
on Everest South Col and one can see the difference."
Messner
was critical on the commercialized aspect in the mountaineering stating
that it affects the natural purity and robs the sport of its challenge ,
expertise and thrill.
He
said," The hardest part of the climb was between 600 metres to 6500
metres where we had to search for the route."
The
expedition made Base Camp at 4200 metres, Advance Base camp at 5800 metres
and Bivouac at 7200 metres. Highest point reached 7500 metres on July 29.
The
expedition leaves for home on Saturday.
ENDS
ISLAMABAD
— Italian elite climber Reinhold Messner after an unsuccessful bid on
Nanga Parbat North Face returned to capital.
In a
press conference held at a local hotel Messner announced to build a school
in Diamir.
He
said, " I owe this thing to them as in 1970 after coming down from
the summit I lost my brother and was
hungry and holed up alone on the mountain for a week."
"They
helped me and I have decided to help them. I will build the school besides
sponsor a teacher for five years as my token of appreciation for the
people of that area."
"They
are 50 kids are they have no opportunity to study and I want to help
them."