RUSSIAN LATOK III EXPEDITION LEADER ALEXANDER ODINTSOV
Russian big wall specialists take on Latok III
JUNE23-2000
By
Asem Mustafa Awan
ISLAMABAD
— Elite Russian climbers all big wall specialists left for Skardu early
morning to take on 2000 metres unclimbed West Face of Latok III at 6950
metres.
The
four member team will start their campaign for the unclimbed face from
5000 metres and will live on the face to make a new route which will be
the 'Russian Direct'.
Forty-two
year old Alexander Odintsov is leading the side who will take on the 50
pitch project.
The
visit of Russians also has purpose and that is to place new routes on the
world 10 biggest walls.
Alexander
is the man behind the idea and has led five expedition so far.
The
Russians were here in 1999 in as well and they scaled Trango Tower from
the West.
"We
have picked 10 big walls of the world which offer 1000 metre of vertical
climb and more, so far we have made it to the top of five big walls making
all new routes," said Alexander adding," It is a Russian project
which started in 1995 and till date five big walls Peak 4810 in Pamir,
1995, Peak Ak-Su in Pamir, 1996, Troll Wall in Norway, 1997 Bhagirathi-III
in India, 1998 and Trango Tower in Pakistan ,1999 have been successfully
climbed and have Russian Routes on them."
"We
are quite focused on the project and we hope that we will live up to the
challenge of the wall," said Alexander adding," The remaining
four walls are in Baffin Island, Patagonia, Fitz Roy and El
Capitan."
"We
will make new routes on all of them."
Jouri
Kochelenko (33) member of the expedition who has been to Pakistan on
Trango Tower said," The first 15 pitches (around 750 metres as one
pitch is equal to 50 metres) are snow and ice, 10 pitches offer mixed
terrain and last 25 pitches are rock with a number of overhang
portions."
The
lower part of the climb offers objective hazards in the form of avalanches
and rock falls," said Alex adding," We will try to find a safe
way between 5000 metres and 6000 metres."
"The
crack system we believe afterwards is quite good, the terrain is quite
technical and it is a difficult climb," said Alexander adding,"
It is a big challenge for all of us as climb two kilometers near vertical
is not an easy job, but at the same time we are very hopeful."
"The
expect the grade on the wall to be Russian 6B (VII, 5.11, A3)."
The
expedition progress can be monitored on the website (www.risk.ru).
Other
members of the expedition are: Alex Ruchkin (36) and Serge Efimov (37). Dr
Michael Bakin will stay at the Base Camp at 4100 metres.
CAPTION:
Alexander Odintsov