AMERICAN LATOK I EXPEDITION LEADER THOMAS NONIS
2
Americans plan for an Alpine ascent on Latok I
By
Asem Mustafa Awan
ISLAMABAD
— Two member American expedition arrived in capital to take on unclimbed
North Ridge of Latok I, 7145
metres offering a steep angle on 60 degrees and more from the Base Camp at
4500 metres.
Forty-three
year old Thomas Nonis is leading the expedition which is planning to make
an Alpine Style attempt on
the peak which has thwarted 18 attempts in the past.
Thomas
has an edge as he has been on Latok I in
1997 managing to reach 6500 metres. He also attempted Ogre (Biantha
Brakk) in 1991 from the South Pillar and returned just short of 100 metres
owing to bad weather.
"The
highest point reached by any expedition is 6800 metres and that was in
1979 by an American team," said Thomas Nonis adding,"
The Japanese made the first ascent from the South side in
1979."
"The
peak is technically very difficult and its very long with the upper
portion more problematic as there is no information about the terrain
after 6500 metres."
"It
is not a snow route, it has a lot of rock climbing in it."
Answering
a query he said," We have planned 12 days for going
up and down with eight going up and three to four coming down.
"The
climb is all weather dependent," said Thomas adding," We hope to
find good weather on the peak as we are small team."
The
two climbers have been climbing together for the
last 25 years and the second member is Thomas Callaghan (41).
"We
will make overnight camps on the ridge and preferably their will be 10
bivouacs up and down," said Thomas
Callaghan adding," We only pray that weather remains good
during our climb."
ENDS
CAPTION: Thomas Nonis
CAPTION: Thomas Callaghan