AMERICAN K-2 EXPEDITION LEADER JEFF ALZNER
US team manage 7600 metres on K-2 from North
SEPTEMBER3-2000
By Asem Mustafa Awan
ISLAMABAD — American expedition returned to capital after failing
on K-2 8611 metres from the North (China) managing 7600 metres.
Jeff Alzner from Portland leader of the expedition is expected in
couple of days with the other team members.
Twelve climbers in all formed the expedition who were hand picked by
Jeff after two years of deliberation on the project.
K-2 from the North Ridge has been climbed by only three Americans
since the first ascent by the Japanese in 1982.
Paul Teare member of the expedition said," The team managed a
little over Camp 3 at 7500 metres before coming down due to bad
weather."
"We attempted over two dozen time for the summit but deep snow
and bad weather forced us to come down every time."
Paul has been on nine Himalayan expedition with four attempts on
Everest. He was member of the successful expedition on Everest Kang Chung
Face in 1988 in which Stephan Venables became the first Briton to scale
the peak without using oxygen.
Paul has five expeditions to Alaska and has summits of Mount
Huntington and Denali.
He aspires to make a new route on Ama Dablam in Nepal in 2001 and
likes exploratory mountaineering.
"This is my first time to Pakistan and I would certainly like
to come again in near future."
Heidi Howkins from Oregon attempting the peak second time
said," We had 23 days of
bad weather in July and only break we got was in August and the good
weather window lasted 48 hours."
We tried for summit bid twice but it failed due to weather."
Heidi Howkins led an unsuccessful expedition in 1998 from the South
East side in Pakistan (The Nation the exclusive). She aspires to the sixth
woman in the world with the distinction (K-2 summit), luck unfortunately
never favoured the other five women who perished high on the mountains
pursuing their dreams.
Other members of the team included, Shawn O'Fallon, Mike Bearzi,
Gill James, Wayne Wallace, Ziggy Emme, Drew Hansen Paul Teare and Ginger
Russell (Base Camp Manager).
Fred Ziel (MD) and Ivan Ramirez (MD) besides being doctors and very
good mountaineers formed the medical team.
The camera team comprised of Greg Ritchi and Jeff Rhoads. Jeff
before joining the team scaled Everest summit twice (with oxygen) in seven
days filming the climbers.
Other members include Jennifer Jordan (BBC Radio), John Heilprin
(Associated Press), Terry Richard (Oregonian).
The expedition made Advance Base Camp at 5150 metres, Camp 1 at 6000
metres, Camp 2 at 6700 and Camp 3 at 7500 metres.
ENDS
Women on K-2
ISLAMABAD — Five women have made the summit of K-2. Three of them
Julie Tulis, Lillian and Alison Hargreaves died on their descent. Julie
and Lillian met the tragic end in (1986 K-2 Tragedy) and Alison died in
1995.
The others Wanda and Chantal died high on the mountains in the Nepal
and they were the only two who came down alive from K-2 summit.
A number of women climbers have attempted the peak but todate nobody
other than them reached the summit at 8611 metres.
Heidi in her first attempt in 1998 reached 'Shoulder' 7800 metres on
K-2, she attempted Kanchenjunga and managed 8000 metres.
She attempted Everest in 1999 reaching 8000 metres and this year she
attempted K-2 from North (China).
She has the summit of Gasherbrum II (8036 metres) in Pakistan in
1996.
She has a seven year old daughter Devin and she plans to get back
home at the earliest.
ENDS
Jay stays behind for climb
ISLAMABAD — Forty two year old Jay Sieger who replaced Erik
Eriksson in the out fit is still on K-2 and he is on his third attempt on
the mountaineer's mountain.
Jay has attempted five 8000ers Makalu, Everest (8600m 1989), K-2
(8300m 1995), Kanchenjunga (8000m 1997) and Cho Oyu (8000m 1998). He
managed 7000 metres on Makalu. He attempted K-2 from China side in 1995
and in 1999 he attempted the peak from Pakistan.
He avowed in 1999," I will come again to climb K-2 and it will
be for my parents and Mihai."
Mihai Cioroianu from Romania died in Jay's arms on July 10, 1999
when a stone hit him in the chest.
ENDS