JAPANESE K-2& BROAD PEAK EXPEDITION LEADER KONDO KAZUYOSHI
Kondo takes his tally to six 8000ers with Broad Peak summit
AUGUST25-2000
By
Asem Mustafa Awan
ISLAMABAD
— Fifty-eight year old Kondo Kazuyoshi from Japan intends rewriting the
record books with his exploits in the high altitude mountaineering.
Having
summits of five 8000ers already including Everest Kondo attempted Broad
Peak and K-2 both during the current mountaineering season.
He
was successful in reaching the summit of Broad Peak but bad weather forced
him to come down from Camp 2 (6900
metres) from K-2.
"I
am very happy that expedition is a success and we all came down from the
mountain safe," said Kondo who reached the summit along with Muhammad
Hussain from Machlo, Khaplo on July 30 at 11:00 am. Yano Toshiaki 47, also
reached the summit the same day but at 9:30 am.
The
expedition successfully hoisted Japan and Japan Workers Alpine Federation
flag on the summit of Broad Peak.
Four
climbers in all from the expedition made the summit in two groups on July
26 and July 30.
Kurahashi
Hidetoshi 40, the climbing leader of the expedition along with Masimoto
Masahi 36 reached the summit on July 26 at 8:00 am. The two spent a night
under the false summit at 8030 metres when they started for summit bid on
July 25 early morning.
"It
was deep snow and poor visibility which forced them to stay at that
altitude," said Kondo adding," The two made a bivouac on that
altitude and climbed the main summit 8047 metres the next day.
Kurahashi
has raised his tally to four 8000ers with Broad Peak summit. He has
climbed Everest, Shishapangma and Nanga Parbat.
The
star attraction in the expedition Kondo who turned a professional climber
at the age of 50 has now six of the world 14 8000ers.
Kondo
has a unique distinction that all his six 8000ers that he has scaled from
1992 onwards are after 50 years. His first 8000er happens to be Cho Oyu in
1992 followed by Shishapangma in 1994, Dhaulagiri in 1995, Everest in 1998
(with oxygen) and Nanga Parbat in 1999 at the age of 57.
He is
perhaps the only climber in the world who has shown such a determination
after the age of 50.
Kondo
lived up to his words that expedition will be a success at the end of July
and he proved it by his planning during his climbing season.
"It
is getting tougher for me," said Kondo adding," It was very hard
climbing and I was labouring for breath."
"May
be it is the age," said Kondo.
Kondo
future plans are to come for Gasherbrum I & II in 2001 and for K-2 he
plans to climb the 'mountaineer's mountain' in 2002 at the age of 60.
Other
members of the expedition included Nagata Koichi 42, Hashimoto Hisashi 47,
Ueno Yukito, Ms Koyama Motoko 40, Shimada Kyoji 52 and Kaneko Hiroshi 51.
The
expedition made regular camp sites on Broad Peak.
CAPTION:
Japanese Workers Alpine Federation expedition leader Kondo Kazuyoshi
standing in the middle last row with members. — Photo by the writer