JAPANESE K-2& BROAD PEAK EXPEDITION LEADER KONDO KAZUYOSHI
Kondo sets sights for world record
MAY27-2000
By
Asem Mustafa Awan
ISLAMABAD
— At 58, Kondo Kazuyoshi from Japan is setting an example. He
has scaled five of the worlds 14, 8000ers already. Now he is back in
Pakistan to take on K-2 and Broad Peak in the Karakorums to make it seven.
He is
very hopeful that by the end of July he will have both the coveted
summits.
Kondo
has a unique distinction that all his five 8000ers that he has scaled from
1992 onwards are after 50 years. His first 8000er happen to be Cho Oyu in
1992 followed by Shishapangma in 1994, Dhaulagiri in 1995, Everest in 1998
(with oxygen) and Nanga Parbat in 1999 at the age of 57.
He is
perhaps the only climber in the world who has shown such a determination
after the age of 50.
The
mission of the expedition is to hoist Japan's flag added with the flag of
Japan Workers Alpine Federation which will have its 40th Anniversary this
year.
Kondo
Kazuyoshi is leading the side of 10 climbers including a woman who will
first acclimatize and climb at the Broad Peak and than later on take on
K-2 from the South East Abruzzi Ridge (Normal Route).
Kondo's
commitment to climbing can be gauged from the fact that after getting
injured on Nanga Parbat by stone who hammered on both his legs went to
India to climb Bhagirati II in India. He turned professional at the age of
50.
Kondo
in his exclusive interview said," We have a strong team and weather
and conditions permitting we will have both the peaks by the end of July.
We
will use high altitude porters and some of the climbers will be using
oxygen during the climb."
Five
of the expedition members have scaled the summit of Everest and I feel
very strong about the expedition success chances," said Kondo who has
been climbing for the last 41 years and has scaled nearly 50 of the world
7000 metre peaks.
Answering
a query Kondo said," I started my climbing in the 8000er range late
due to economic reasons as it is very expensive climbing in this
category."
Kurahashi
Hidetoshi 40, is the climbing leader of the expedition having the summits
of Everest, Shishapangma and Nanga Parbat.
Other
members who have scaled Everest include Nagata Koichi 42, Hashimoto
Hisashi 47 and Yano Toshiaki 47. Ueno Yukito attempted Everest buts was
unsuccessful he however has climbed Dhaulagiri and Cho Oyu in Nepal.
For
seven members it will be the first time climbing experience in Pakistan.
Ms Koyama Motoko 40, the only woman climber in the lot has scaled
Korzhenevskaja in Pamir.
Kondo
before coming to Pakistan reached the summit of Chulu East 6484 metres in
Nepal with Nagata Koichi.
Other
members of the expedition are Shimada Kyoji 52, Kaneko Hiroshi 51 and
Masamoto Masahi 36.
The
expedition will regular camp sites on both the peaks from the Normal Route
and is taking ropes to be fixed in the difficult sections of the climb.
The
expedition will make Base Camp on Broad Peak at 5000 metres, Camp 1 at
5700 metres, Camp 2 at 6400 metres, Camp 3 at 6800 metres and Camp 4 at
7400 metres.
The
Camp sites on K-2 on South East Abruzzi Ridge are Base Camp at 5000 metres, Camp 1 at 5800 metres, Camp 2 at 6400 metres,
Camp 3 at 7200 metres and Camp 4 at 7800 metres. Summit bids on both the
peaks with Broad Peak first in mid July.
CAPTION:
Kondo Kazuyoshi