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The Redgarden Wall |
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Decent from the Redgarden Wall: You can rappel off of the many rap anchors or follow the East Slabs Decent. Work down slabs and gullies to an east facing slope between the two towers. Eventually you will drop into a boulder filled gully and then it will connect to the trail that travels on the west side of the Wind Tower. Follow this trail to the foot bridge and the road. Down climbing is necessary in some spots. |
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1 -- Anthill Direct (5.9 R) -- Start by following a narrow black ramp up left to some loose rock, traverse left into a 5.8 corner. Follow the ramps up to a bolted belay ledge. From the belay climb up onto a slab and then head into a 5.6 crack and then pull over an overhang to a good belay ledge. From this belay head up a runout slab to another belay ledge. Climb up a thin right facing corner into a vertical 5.5 crack and belay beneath a bulge. Pitch 5 goes right under the bulge to a dihedral, climb a steep 5.9 crack to a belay platform. Then head up easy slabs to the east slab decent.
2 -- Redgaurd (5.8 R) -- The first pitch is the crux. Climb up sloping rock and into a crack that is in a corner. Then traverse left 20ft to a bolted belay. Then head up head up a crack to a ramp and follow the ramp to a double bolted belay. Pitch 3 heads up a black dihedral to a narrow stance to belay from. Next head up a thin ramp to a belay niche. Pitch 5 continues up the ramp system to a belay at a cave. Next work right and up a vertical wall to a ledge. Climb back and left into a groove and go out left over the edge of a large chockstone adn belay from above. Use the East Slabs Decent to get down.
3 -- Touch and Go (5.9) -- Start by climbing under a roof and out left up some flakes into a left facing corner. Keep climbin gup into a finger crack with some 5.7 moves to a belay station with double bolts. You can also rap down from here. Traverse left to a right facing corner. Stem up it to a ledge with two bolts. Rappel with twin ropes or jump onto Redgaurd or Anthill Direct.
4 -- Bolting For Glory (5.10a) -- A good variation to Touch and Go. At the sloping ramp about half way up go up a steep slab on small crimps and edges past three bolts. Go left past the third bolt to the two bolt belay ledge. Use two ropes to rappel to the ground or jump onto Redgaurd or Anthill Direct.
5 -- T2 (5.10d) -- Start by sending a roof using some flakes to a piton. Climb up right on steep rock to a bolted belay on a left facing ramp. The second pitch starts by moving a bit west on the ramp and then follows a chimney to a belay at a cave. The third pitch works diagonally left on the Upper Ramp. The next pitch begins below a shallow black gully. Climb up the gully 60ft to a ledge. Traverse left into a finger crack that angles up and left. Belay at a small stance in the crack. Pitch five angles left up the crack to a right facing dihedral, climb on the right side of the dihedral to a belay station below a roof. Start the next pitch by climbing left out the side of the dihedral along a band of rotten rock. Belay on a ramp above. The last two pitches follow the left agling groove to a lerge tree.
6 -- The Naked Edge (5.11b) -- Start the first pitch by climbing up a finger crack using jamming and stemming techniques. Climb till you see two bolts to your right to belay from. Climb a slab to the left side of the belay to a leaning roof. Traverse around the edge and climb a fingercrack to the next belay at an exposed stance. From here follow a 5.6 edge to a niche and step right to a 5.8 manltle. Climb up the sloping ledge beneath an overhanging chimney. Pitch four climbs a system of cracks and corners to the top of the chimney slot. Belay at a small broken ledge. From here continue up a shallow corner to the right side of a hanging prow. Climb a 5.10d finger/hand crack to a small belay stance. Pitch six climbs up and left around an arete to some easy slabs that lead to the summit.
7 -- Kleoberdanz (5.11a R) -- Start uphill from T2 and below a roof. Climb up a broken corner. go right past some good bolts and send the roof with the help of some jugs. Continue right to a hanging belay. Rappel 75ft to the ground or continue up the 2nd pitch of 5.10 R climbing.
8 -- Guenese (5.11a) -- Start by traversing right and up on some flakes to a small roof. Send the roof using a jug and climb a shallow corner to a belay stance with some bolts. Rappel 80ft to the ground or climb pitch two. Pitch two consists of 5.8 runout climbing to the upper ramp. Work up past two bolts yo the belay for Fire and Ice.
9 -- Fire and Ice (5.12a) -- Start uphill from Guenese. Do some face climbing that goes diagonally past three bolts to a belay under the roof. Rappel to the ground or send the roof that is 5.11d with runout 5.10 above to a good cam place.
10 -- Psycho (5.12d) -- Start on the right end of a low roof band. The first pitch climbs up and right through corners to a belay under the roof. Start pitch two by doing the 5.12d roof or an A1 bolt ladder over the roof. Both lead to a hanging belay above. Rappel with 150ft with two ropes or do the last two pitches by traverseing left above the lip of a roof to a bolted belay. Climb up 5.8 runout face climbing to a shallow corner that leads you to the belay. Pitch three traverses right (5.7) to a groove. Belay at the top of the groove. Pitch four crosses the Psycho Slab. Traverse right to a bolt and onto a slab. Climb until you reach the upper ramp.
11 -- Temporary Like Achilles (5.10c A1) -- Pitch one leads you west of Psycho below the left side of the lower roof band. Climb up some flakes to a band of rotten rock. Traverse left below the roof and climb up past three bolts to a two bolt anchor. Pitch two aids over the roof on an A1 bolt ladder to a two bolt belay. The third pitch climbs on steep rock past two bolts to a tihn roof with a bolt for protection. Send the roof and work up past another bolt to the belay for Psycho. Finish on the last pitch for Psycho. |
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