|
1 -- Werk Supp (5.9+) -- Climb 150ft up a thin cracks and flakes to a large sloping belay ledge. From the belay ledge climb a crack. The crack starts off as a small chimney and turns into a good hand crack near the top. Belay from the top and then scramble east down ramps and shelves to the road.
2 -- Bastille Crack (5.7) -- Climb up a thin flake and then reach out left into the crack. Climb up the crack to a small ledge with two bolts. Then work up a series of hand jams that lie back up the crack and flake. Climb up this for 90ft to a belay ledge. Climb up twin cracks 45ft up to another belay ledge. Then climb a decending traverse onto a system of broker corners. Ckimb up this for a while to another stance. From here climb up a chimney to the summit. First hand beta: P1- 5.6, 70ish feet- climb up blocks to a thin flake, a green alien fits nicely, gain the stance a few feet above in the flake. From the stance you can reach over and place a red alien in the crack which eliminates the potential for a ground fall and falling into the blocks. Step from the stance in the flake to the crack. Climb the crack/flake which gets easier the higher you get (JUG HAUL!!)End at a nice stance with two fatty bolts P2- 5.6- 100ish feet- can easily be linked w/ pitch one. Start up the chimney/crack to a flake, climb the flake (5.6) for a while. When the flake starts to traverse right keep going straight up the face to keep it 5.6. If you traverse left it is 5.7. Pitch ends on a sloping ledge with an old fixed pin. Red aliens back it up. P3, 40ish feet, crux pitch @ 5.7, From the ledge go straight up the crack to a 5.7 liebak on a real positive feeling flake. Continue up the crack /face to a sloping ledge. Build a belay w/ #1 camalots & yello alien for directional. (When I (matt) was leading this some dude soloed past me!)P4 50ish feet 5.6- Climb left down the ramp a little ways to the "corner system thingy" go up on goofy 5.6 climbing to a sloping ledged. P5, 50is feet, 5.6 (can be combine with p4 but there will be rope drag) Continue up the obvious line to a chimney, follow the easy chimney to the summit.
3 -- Outer Space (5.10c R) -- Climb the first two pitches of the Bastille Crack, then diagonal out right and climb about 35ft to dihedral system. Climb up the dihedrals to a sloping belay ledge. From here climb up steep rock up left below the corver to an undercling. Continue up to a crack that faces left and then continue up to the summit. Use a lot of runners to decrease rope drag.
4 -- X-M (5.10c R) -- Strat by climbing up a runout flake to crack, then step right into a chimney to the right of a pillar. Climb the chimney 70ft to the belay station. Traverse left out from the pillar and then diagnol out left on a thin seam. Continue up to 2 bolts on a shelf, belay from here. Then climb up past some pitons to a mantle, from here continue up to a belay ledge. Continue up a runout section under a slanted roof. Stem and jam 25ft up a dihedral. From here hook up with the end of Outer Space and just follow it up to the summit.
5 -- Northwest Corner (5.11a) -- Begin by climbing up left on a corner then work up a chimney to the right of the pillar. Climb up the chimney to a belay station. From here jam up a thin crack to a roof. Send the roof and then work on the crimpy face. Climb right to a thin corner and belay on a small prow. Climb up a thin crack and then lean out over a mantle. Climb up to a belay. Then work up past a fixed piton. Then up a steep slab to a belay ledge on the ramp right of Outer Space. Traverse left and finish on Outer Space.
6 -- Rain (5.10 R) -- Climb up a slab to some smaller roofs. Send the small roofs and then work up harder climbing to the double bolt anchor. Rappel to the ground from here using two ropes. The rappel is about 145ft.
7 -- West Buttress (5.9) -- Start by doing a traverse left 10ft to a think finger crack. Climb up the crack for a few moments and then go out left to easier climbing. Climb up and rejoin the crack where it is not so steep or climb up the crack (5.10b) to the belay station. From the belay climb the off-width crack up past a bolt then chimney up the flake to the next belay. Climb left on a broken ledge then up a chimney over an overhang and onto a ledge. Belay here. Finish climbing the easy slab to the right to the summit.
|
|