Rating Systems
Yosemite Decimal System Bouldering V-Scale England France Austria Germany Yosemite Decimal System
5.2
5.3
5.4
5.5
5.6
5.7
5.8
5.9
5.10a
5.10b
5.10c
5.10d
5.11a
5.11b
5.11c
5.11d
5.12a
5.12b
5.12c
5.12d
5.13a
5.13b
5.13c
5.13d
5.14a
5.14b
5.14c
5.14d
5.15a
5.15b





V0-
V0

V0+

V1

V2

V3
V4

V5
V6
V7

V8
V9
V10
V11
V12
V13
V14
V15




4b
4c
5a
5b
5b
5c
5c
5c
6a
6a
6b
6b
6b
6b
6c
6c
7a
7a
7a
7a
7b
7b
7c
7c




5a
5b
5c
6a
6a
6b
6b
6c
6c
7a
7a
7b-
7b
7b+
7c-
7c+
8a
8a+
8b
8b+
8c
8c+
9a
9a
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
27
28
29
30
30
31
32
33
33
34
34




VIIa
VIIb
VIIc
VIIIa
VIIIb
VIIIb
VIIIc
IXa
IXb
IXb
IXc
Xa
Xa
Xa
Xb
Xb
Xc
Xc
Xc
Xc
Xc
Xc
Xc
Xc		 5.2
5.3
5.4
5.5
5.6
5.7
5.8
5.9
5.10a
5.10b
5.10c
5.10d
5.11a
5.11b
5.11c
5.11d
5.12a
5.12b
5.12c
5.12d
5.13a
5.13b
5.13c
5.13d
5.14a
5.14b
5.14c
5.14d
5.15a
More Rating Systems
Class 1: Hiking
Scrambling, occasional use of hands.
Class 2:
Class 3: Scrambling, a rope might be carried.
Simple climbing, rope is often used.
Class 4:
Climbing involves use of rope, belaying & protection.
Class 5:
Aid Climbing Ratings:
A0
A1
A2
A2+
A3

A3+
A4

A4+
A5


A5+		 -Fixed Protection
-Easy Placements.  Every piece could hold a fall.
-Placements are good, but may be tricky to place.
-Same as A2, but with increased fall potential. 20-30 feet
-Hard Aid. 60-80 foot falls.  No danger of grounding or serious injury.  Must test placements.
-Same as A3 but with injury potential.
-Fall potential of 80-100 feet with bad landings.  Gear placements will only hold body weight.
-Same as A4, but longer route & increased danger.
-Placements will only hold body weight for entire pitch.  No solid protection.  If the leader falls at top of pitch, he will most likely take a 300ft. whip.
-Theoretical Grade. A5 but with bad belay anchors.
C0-C5 means that the pitch can be climbed clean with no fixed protection.  Climbers should honor this style and not place any fixed protection on the pitch.
More Bouldering Ratings:
B1

B2
B3		 -Requires skill.  Moves would normally be rated in the 5.12 to 5.13 range.
-Moves are in the 5.14 range.
-A B2 problem that had not been repeated
Commitment Ratings:
I
II
III

IV

V

VI

VII		 -Short easy climb near a road.
-1 or 2 pitch route within a short distance of rescue.
-Multi-pitch route with a longer aproach (1-2hrs).  Descent may require building rappel anchors.
-Multi-pitch route at high elevation.  Several hours of approach.  May have dangerous descent.
-Long climb in a remote setting.  Route may take all day to complete and several rappels may be needed in descent
-Long route in alpine setting.  Only elite climbers will complete in one day.  Difficult approach and descent.
-Take grade VI and make it longer and harder.
Fall Ratings:
S
R
X		 -Fall may be long with possiblity on injury.
-Fall will be long and with bad landing.
-If you fall you will hit the deck, you will most likely not be walking away from and "X" fall.
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