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Nemea

Remains of the 4th century BCE Temple of Zeus   (Some images taken from the NVAP online project)  In an upland valley of the Arcadian mountains, southwest of Corinth, lies the site of Nemea.  In antiquity, Nemea was the home to the Nemean Games, one of the four major Panhellenic festivals.
    The Nemean Valley lies just to the west across a low ridge from the main Corinth to Argos road - one of the most important routes in all of ancient Greece.  This upland valley is two or three miles long and about a mile wide.  It contracts at its northern outlet to a mere gully, which does not allow all of the rain to escape and keeps the valley bottom green and moist (even marshy in some places).  This, along with the fact that the valley itself lies about 300 feet above sea level, contributes to the rich pastures and the unusually mild climate of the valley.  Steve Miller, the site's chief excavator, has stated that the often cool (but very powerful) summer breezes may have been a determining factor in the selection of the site for Pan-Hellenic games.  I wish those cool breezes were around last summer!  When I was in Nemea on July 4, the temperature at the site was 117 degrees Fahrenheit (not the heat index, but the temperature)!!!  In the 3-D view of the valley here (the Nemean Valley lies to the right of the large, circular hill in the upper middle of the view) the sanctuary is marked with a "T" and the stadium is marked with the "S".

History and Myths
    There are several important layers and periods of time that exist at the site of Nemea.  It must be rembered that during the archaic and classical periods, Nemea was not a settlement.  A village, Bembina, was located nearby, but only during the games and the training period was there a large number of people at the site.  But there were people in the vicinity of Nemea long before the Panhellenic games.
The large round hill of Tsoungiza, to the west of the sanctuary, has yielded remains from Neolithic settlements (in the 6th millenium BC), and more importantly, it was the center of the area’s Bronze Age population, but there was also activity in the sanctuary itself at this time.  With the presence of such a long running settlement so near to an archaic sanctuary, the question of continuity must be raised.  But the material-remains during the Dark Age, none of which are datable before 800 BCE, appear to show that there was little if any activity at the site.  Also, the myths themselves are not proof of the continuity from prehistoric times.
    During the 8th century BCE there was a revival at the site.  Hieronymus tells us (Chronicle 179) that the Nemean games were founded in 573 BCE and were celebrated in honor of Zeus.  There has been nothing to make us doubt either of these statements.  There are two different foundation myths for the games.  The most commonly accepted myth (and the subject of a lost play of Aeschylus as well as one of Euripides) revolves around the infant Opheltes.  His father Lycourgos, who was either a king or priest of Nemea), had asked the Delphic oracle how to keep his son and heir safe.  The oracle responded that the baby could not be allowed to touch the ground until he could walk.  A slave woman, Hypsipyle, was given the charge of watching the baby.  One day she was carrying Opheltes when the Seven Champions passed through the valley on their way to Thebes from Argos.  They asked for something to drink and Hypsipyle led them to a spring and sat the baby down on a bed of celery (or parsley) while she helped them.  A snake then killed the baby while everyone’s attention was diverted.  The Seven thought this a bad omen and tried to appease the gods, so they founded the Nemean Games.  The robes of the judges (Hellanodikai) are black as a sign of mourning and the crowns were made of celery to further remember the incident.
    The other major myth involves Hercules who, after defeating the Nemean lion as one of his twelve labors, established the sanctuary and games as a thank offering to his father Zeus.  The earliest reference to this connection though was made in the 1st century AD.  (Virgil – Georgics 3.19) and it appears to just be a later Roman creation.

The Ancient Site Today

Heroon
    In the first half of the sixth century (roughly the time when the games began), an area to the southwest of the sanctuary received some sort of an early Heroon.  The exact layout of the earliest period remains unknown, but its walls were taken down and use as packing later inside the Heroon.  About fifty years after its construction, a change was made in the Heroon.  New foundations and probably a mud brick wall were constructed, encircling a better-defined area.  Inside the Heroon, a rectangular structure made of large boulders was constructed.  The large amount of votive deposits and layers of ash and bone suggest that this was an altar, possibly the tomb of Opheltes.  In the Hellenistic period, during the large building program, the walls were torn down and rebuilt.  There seems to have been no roof since no supports were found and the shape and size of the space is too big to be without them.  There also is evidence of trees growing within the tenemos.  Other altar-like blocks are spread throughout the Heroon.  All of this matches Pausanias’ description of the enclosure.  “Here is the grave of Opheltes with a a stone fence around it and altars inside the enclosure.” (Pausanias 2.15.2)
Archaic Temple
    Also in the first half of the sixth century, a long, slender, nonperipteral temple with a hipped roof (no pediments) was built in the sanctuary.  It probably had a prostyle porch or one in antis.  Not much more about it is known though.  This temple was violently destroyed in the late fifth century along with most of the rest of the sanctuary.  Large quantities of weapons were found at the destruction level, which can be dated no earlier than ca. 430 BCE and which has recently been dated by Miller to 415-410.  What could have happened?  It seems possible that a takeover of the games by Argos was the occasion.  Kleonai controlled the sanctuary at least down to the 460’s, but by 388 it had already passed to Argos.  In 408/7 Euripides’ Hypsipyle provides a clear basis in myth for the original foundation of, and hence control over, the Nemean Games.  So it seems the Argive takeover occurred during the Peloponnesian War and with force.  It is also clear that throughout the Hellenistic and Roman periods the games were frequently shifted from Nemea to Argos and back again, depending upon the political fortunes of Argos at any given time.
    There was an absence of activity following the destruction until the second half of the fourth century.  During this time the games were surely moved to Argos as they also later were.  When they arrived back at Nemea, the sanctuary was revitalized in a major rebuilding program.
Sacred Grove
    At this time there was also a grove of sacred cypress trees to the south and east of the temple.  The remains of the 4th century grove have been located by large holes, dark and moist soil areas, and root analysis and the trees planted here were definitely cypress (Pausanias reported this and root analysis confirms it).  There are no known special rites that were performed in the grove, but on the practical side they must have served as shade and protection from the wind for both visitors and athletes.  Cypress trees have been replanted in the same locations as their ancient counterparts.
Oikoi
    A group of buildings (the row of buildings in the upper middle of the plan above), built early in the 5th century - before the sanctuary’s destruction - were either reconstructed or remodeled by the late 4th century, and were quite conspicuous in the sanctuary’s Hellenistic life.  There were nine Oikoi at the site and they were related to the site much like the treasuries at Olympia were related to theirs.  They define the southern edge of the sanctuary and actually are, on the whole, much larger than those at Olympia.  Inscriptions survive that show one was Rhodian and one was Epidaurian, but we don’t know which ones these were.  It is probably appropriate to think of them as storerooms, embassies or meeting halls and not simply as treasuries.  They are poorly preserved though. Some of the Oikoi are slightly out of alignment (barely perceptible in the plan above), but they were probably all built at roughly the same time.  One puzzling find is the remains of square bases inside some of the Oikoi that are pierced by holes in the middle; possibly for use as anchors for ropes or tethers.
Circular Structure A
    Just opposite the pat to the west of the Oikoi, there are the remains of what was most likely a monumental statue.  Two circles of stones remain as do a number of marble and some bronze fragments.  Cuttings on the stones indicate another row of stones sat on top of them.  Pottery and a coin inside the remains date the structure to the second quarter of the 5th century and it seems to have been destroyed violently at the end of the 5th or beginning of the 4th century.  There is no way now to find the subject of the statue though.
Circular Structure B
    Also built in the second quarter of the 5th century, this single circle of hard limestone is placed just to the south of the eastern side of the temple.  Unlike A, B has no inner ring of stones, but instead was filled with softer crumbled stone.  It too was abandoned and partially destroyed at the end of the 5th century.  Its use may have been similar to A, in that it may have held a statue or statue group, or it may have a stepped, circular altar for use in sacrificing or burning offerings.
Nu Structure
    The Nu Structure is found just to the south of Circular Structure B and seems to have been constructed after the disuse of B.  The strange T-shaped construction must have supported a statue group.  The base is not rectangular, and indeed was changed at some point during antiquity but kept its general shape.  The statues must have been very heavy or numerous for the foundations are substantial.
Xenon
    A 4th century construction, the Xenon was built alongside the main road that ran just to the south of the sanctuary.  It faced the road and its back faced the backs of the Oikoi and small dining establishment in between them.  It originally had 12 rooms on the lower floor (6 apartments with a front and back room for each one).  The back rooms all have column supports in the middle and a small room in the middle of the Xenon probably held a staircase to an upper floor. This upper floor most likely only existed over the rear of the building.  Athletic gear was found here and so were some hearths and cooking items (one room was definitely a kitchen).  A later addition, two more rooms were added to the east side of the Xenon in the late 3rd century BCE and probably served some religious purpose, though exactly what purpose is unknown (an altar was found in one of the rooms).  A basilica was built on top of the western third of the Xenon in the 6th century AD.
Bath
    Firmly dated to the last third of the 4th century BC, the bath, located to the southwest of the Temple of Zeus, contains three chambers.  The smallest part (on lower right side in the plan) was also divided in three parts.  In the middle there is a plunge pool and on either side are separate areas with four “bathtubs” in each, designed not for immersion, but for splashing or throwing water up onto the bather possibly so that they wouldn’t dirty the big pool too much.  The bath was supplied by a covered aqueduct that brought water from a nearby spring and the pools were flushed periodically by a system of reservoirs to the south of the building.  It is not known if it was only for athletes’ use since the palaestra and gymnasium have not been found yet.
Houses
(The bottom structures in the above plan)  These were built in the last quarter of the 4th century BCE.  There are seven discernable units, some sharing walls, and had gone out of use by the middle of the 3rd century BCE.  They have been labeled ‘houses’ but they are larger than normal dwellings and objects labeled as belonging to Zeus were found in them.  They probably were the official quarters of the priests or judges or caretakers of the sanctuary.
Temple of Zeus
   The second temple was constructed directly above (though not mirroring the plan of) the earlier archaic temple of Zeus.  It was built from local gray limestone, but some dark limestone from Argos was also used.  As you can see here it was a Doric peristyle temple (6 columns on ends, 12 on sides) and all three orders were represented at different parts of the temple.  A ramp led up to the eastern side and it is still preserved in pretty good condition.  The temple had a pronaos in antis but no opisthodomos.
    Instead of the opisthodomos it had, at the rear of the cella, an adyton (or crypt).  This extended down to the ground level of the archaic temple and the side walls of the crypt incorporated numerous reused blocks with unfinished sides. They were most likely stuccoed over.  In addition, one of the walls of the early temple follows along the line of one of the crypt’s sides, so that the crypt was probably positioned at the western end of the archaic temple, at its southern side (possibly a very holy spot in the early temple).
You can also see that inside the cella, there was an interior colonnade.
    The interior colonnade had two levels.  On the lower level, relatively short free-standing Corinthian columns wrapped around three sides (all except the eastern entrance).  The capitals are similar to those at Tegea.  The sides of the capitals that faced the walls were not carved nearly as precisely as the sides facing the inner part of the cella (you can see in the plan above that they were relatively close to the walls).  Cuttings in the western columns would have held a screen restricting access to the adyton.
    The upper tier of the interior colonnade had half and quarter Ionic columns carved into piers.  The volutes of the capitals were carved with deep grooves and spiraling edges terminating in the eyes.  This design made the most of the little light entering the upper part of the cella.
    The cult statue probably sat at the western end of the interior colonnade and not next to the adyton in the rear of the cella, though no cuttings for the statue have been found.
    On the exterior, the Doric columns are quite slender (contrasted to the stubby Corinthian columns inside).  W.M. Leake said in 1830 that “The slenderness of the columns is particularly remarkable after viewing those of Corinth;  it is curious that the shortest and longest specimens, in proportion to their diameter, of any existing Doric columns, should be found so near to each other.”  The two columns of the pronaos remain standing with epistyle and frieze blocks still atop them.  The one column by itself remains from the exterior colonnade.  All of these columns do display entasis, though it is slight. The column profiles are very similar to those at Tegea.  The corner columns are of course moved in slightly to help compensate for the triglyph-metope problem. The finished building had no sculptural decoration.  The triglyph-metope frieze not even painted, quite plain for its day.  The sima was the only part of the building that survives which was made of marble – Pentelic.  It featured alternating lion’s head spouts and spiraling acanthus tendrils.
    While there are numerous similarities between this temple and the one at Tegea to Athena Alea, they do differ slightly in overall plan and design.  It seems as if there was a conscious effort at Nemea to adopt some forms used at Tegea, but it does not follow that the same architect designed both temples.  Numerous artisans probably worked on both temples though.
Altar
    The unusually long altar that ran to the east of the temple was not constructed all at one time.  It is similar to the altar of Poseidon at Isthmia, but it is quite hard to date because of the different layers (only a relative chronology).  Beat up quite a bit by Christian farmers who ripped stones up or cut rows in them, one side is not preserved to its full length, which will probably never be known.  Little of the superstructure remains but we can tell that there were steps up to it and there was a long flat surface for numerous sacrifices to take place at the same time.  At the southern end, there is a base for two statues.  In addition, numerous blocks are found near the altar and throughout the sanctuary, leftovers from inscriptions and statue bases.
Stadium
    Though the early stadium has not been found yet, the 4th century stadium has.  It was originally the standard 600 ancient feet but with no retaining wall at the northern end, much of the end of the track has eroded away.  Notable features of the stadium include a ‘sidewalk’ and water channel around the edge of the track as well as the entrance tunnel.  The water channel had occasional silt-deposit receptacles and obviously had running water for the athletes and spectators.  The starting lines have been found and blocks were also found that surely held some sort of starting mechanism like at Isthmia, but not quite the same (precise nature unknown).
    Probably the most interesting feature of the stadium is the entrance tunnel which runs from 19 meters shy of the track 55 meters west towards the sanctuary (another 400 meters away).  It is possibly the earliest known vaulted structure in Greece (depending upon the dating of Macedonian tombs at Vergina at in the Chalcidice) but it is not known for sure that the vault was introduced by Alexander after his journey to the East.  It’s a controversial subject that I won’t spend any more time on here.  There have also been numerous colorful arguments on the possibilities of graffiti inside the tunnel, but I will leave that out here too.

Continue on to Nemea, Part 2
(Part 2: The Nemean Games, Modern Practicalities, Bibliography, Links)



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