Eleusis
When you are asking about this site, don't say "Eleusis." The modern
equivalent is "Elefsina." Only a 45 minute (and about US$0.75)
bus ride from Athens, the city now is home to more than 20,000 inhabitants.
This was the location where the sacred road that led to the Parthenon began
and there are still many remains from the temples and fortifications.
Also this is the best look you'll probably get of the bay (and island) of
Salamis, which is unfortunately quite ugly today as a result of the massive
industrialization around it.
The Ancient Site
The main reason that visitors go to Eleusis today is
because of the presence of an ancient cult of Demeter (see
Pausanias 1.36.3
). This is the site of the Eleusinian Mysteries, which lasted here
for more than two thousand years. In 392 A.D., the Roman Emperor Theodosius
finally decided that he needed to put an end to all the pagan rituals and
he had the doors at Eleusis closed. The site was abandoned a few years
later when the pesky Goths invaded. If you go to Eleusis today a
plan of the site
is an absolute necessity to understand the entire
archaeological site
. You will need to make sure that you locate the Greater Propylaea
once you enter the site gates. A large paved forecourt leads
up to it. A set of Roman triumphal arches has also been reerected on
either side of the forecourt. To the left of the path you can see highly
decorated sewer grates cut from marble. Once you make your way further
into the site you will pass through the Lesser Propylaea. You
can see the deep indentations where the wheels of carts have cut away at the
marble over the centuries. At this point do not miss the fragments
from the Lesser Propylaea which show sheaves of grain and poppies (pictured
above). There is also a cave to the right where Pluto supposedly
returned Persephone to earth. 
You will then enter the Telesterion, the Temple of Demeter
, where the mysteries actually occurred. The plan of the Telesterion
is a confused mass of columns and walls to most visitors, but you can still
sit on the steps cut away on two sides of the building's interior.
There are many other interesting archaeological remains at the site, but
I will stop my description here. If you continue through the
Telesterion you will arrive at the small museum, the next stop on our tour.
By the way, I hope that they have cut the grass recently when you go because
the first time I visited the site I could hardly walk around since the grass
was so tall and determining the layout with my maps was not easy.
The Archaeological
Museum
at Eleusis is small but very important. While you are there,
do not miss the Odysseus krater (seen here) 
and the giant caryatid (
picture
). Numerous other funerary fragments and even a large sarcophagus are
housed here as well as quite a few other pieces of sculpture. 
For those of you with more scholarly interests, check out the University of Manitoba's Eleusis Archaeological Project (doesn't seem to be working now though!). It is a chance for you to take a more thorough look at the digs at Eleusis. You can access the online excavation reports for 1994 and 1995. If you take a look at it, drop the good people at the Classics Department there a note thanking them for placing the information online where everyone can benefit from it.
The Modern Site
You'll have to walk a little bit if you are using public
transportation, but it really is not very far. The bus will drop you
off in the middle of town (where the road forks and the bus goes right), and
this is probably the best place to get off. Then you will head through
the small town square and the site should be a little further down and on
the left. You may be able to see the church tower on the acropolis from
afar. There are plenty of periptera and supermarkets nearby since we
are almost in the middle of town, but I cannot recommend any places to eat
a substantial meal.
Links checked and updated: Feb. 3, 2002
