(20,700 inhab.) Argos today is a mid-size, quiet town that sits on the edge of the plain of Argos (described by some guide books as "a rather shabby market town). The modern city lies at the base of the two large hills, Larissa and Aspis, and covers the site of the ancient city (Strabo 8.6.7 describes it). It is a common stopping point for buses from Mycenae to Nauplio, though you normally wouldn't have to switch here. The bus stop is on the edge of the large and open town square and it is a pleasant place to spend a few minutes waiting on the incoming passengers.
There is plenty to see of archaeological interest too. The most
prominent site is the huge classical theater(picture)
- no one has to pay here - where occasional performances are infrequently
staged (Pausanias
2.20.6). The theater stretches up a very steep hillside
and parts of the stage still remain. Many renovations occurred during the
Roman period and there is also the remains of a large Roman Bath (picture)
still standing to its original roof height at places - can't miss it.
Mosaics on the floors can still be seen and there is even some sarcophagi
visible down in a lower level of the bath. Also see if you can find
the remnants of the hypocaust heating system below the floors of some rooms.
The Argive
Agora is not readily accessible (here is the Argive
Bouleterion though), but you can wander around the edge of the theater
to see some more Roman remains, including a small odeion (picture).
If you're in Argos and you have a little time, they also have a very nice,
but small, archaeological
museum which houses finds from Argos and the nearby site of Lerna.
The museum has some great mosaics outside, which have the months
(pictured: March
and April )and seasons (pictures: Winter,
Summer)
personified. Also of note are the krater fragment depicting Odysseus
and the Cyclops (picture)
- at another exhibition when I was there!! - as well as an 8th cent. B.C.
bronze suit of armor (picture).
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