Thank you for the interest you have expressed by your decision to join our ranks. We have provided these guidelines for new members who desire to portray a soldier or musician. (Note: the ladies of the regiment will obviously have their own guidelines.) We hope you to enjoy being with us as we honor the Civil War Union Color Guard especially those of the Guard who were recipients of the Medal of Honor.
Our reenactment name is “UNION VETERANS COLOR GUARD” and our public relations name is “CIVIL WAR MEDAL OF HONOR COLOR GUARD”. Applicants have many different reasons for joining this unit but two basic reasons seem to be a desire to honor those soldiers who carried and guarded the Colors and to educate the modern public about our heritage of such a terrible time in our history, but that ultimately made us a stronger nation.
Since we portray veterans of that war and because of the generic nature of the unit, it is most logical to follow uniform and accoutrement guidelines as established by the Civil War U.S. Army Regular and Volunteer regulations, traditions and habits.
Our primary
impression is of a “FULL DRESS COLOR GUARD” to participate in Central Texas
parades, memorial events, and educational opportunities. Our secondary
impression is that of a “FIELD COLOR GUARD” of the Western Theater to
participate in the reenactments for those that want the campaign experience.
The intent is to present uniformed infantrymen and musicians that have the
character and skill of veteran soldiers.
BUILDING THE COLOR GUARD SOLDIER IMPRESSION
As the following
pages will prove, building an impression of a Federal (a.k.a. Union or Yankee
or National) infantry Color Guard (CG) soldier could be a costly
procedure. It is not necessary
to have a complete outfit in order to begin attending parades, ceremonies,
reenactments and other events. Some of
our members have extra items they are willing to loan and this may be able to
get you the minimum you need to get through an event. There is a wealth of documentation involving the civil war
especially the thousands of period photos, letters, and official documents, not
to mention modern photos of original items.
The historic photos are sometimes the best resource that a living
historian can use. If you have
questions about this set of authenticity standards, definitely ask us. No one
has a lock on all the correct information out there. It helps to ask a veteran before
you make that trip or Internet order to the sutler. Please note members of
the Guard were all Sergeants or Corporals and info is included.
NOTE: WE LIST ITEMS IN THE ORDER THAT WE
RECOMMEND YOU PURCHASE THEM AS THEY ARE USUALLY THE HARDEST TO BORROW AND/OR
THEY WILL PREPARE YOU QUICKEST FOR OUR PRIMARY IMPRESSION. ALSO SEE THE “THE CIVIL WAR REENACTORS” WEB
SITE (http://www.cwreenactors.com/cgi-bin/dcforum/dcboard.cgi)
FOR RESALE ITEMS, BUT SHOP CAREFULLY.
IMPORTANT!! Even if
you are not completely uniformed and equipped, we want you to participate!! We
will help you look as authentic as possible.
We may add or delete your items, loan you stuff, suggest temporary
substitutes, all with the best interest of you and our unit.
A. Preferred: Items that are totally acceptable and fit the impressions of the largest majority of Federal infantrymen and closest to the impression we are depicting.
B. Acceptable: Items identified that will fit the impressions we are doing. In some cases may be a less expensive item.
NEEDED VS OPTIONAL:
Needed means these are necessary to create a public appearance for our DRESS COLOR GUARD.
Optional would mean items that would enhance a true impression if you wanted to “do it right” for example, period underwear or “weather necessary items” like an overcoat. One notable item is the bayonet. Due to danger to the flag, the CG will not fix bayonets in parades etc, so new members could get by without one initially, but for a true impression and certainly in the field, eventually you would acquire a bayonet.
UNIFORM & Equipment
FOOTWEAR (BROGANS) (Needed)
A. U.S. PATTERN JEFFERSON BOOTEE (black leather brogans) with dark brown or black leather laces; may be rough out (sometimes referred to as “waxed” leather) or smooth; may be stitched, pegged, double pegged, or a combination. Metal heel plates may, or may not, be installed;
B. Government contracted, non-regulation bootee.
Estimated Cost for new: $60-100, up to $200 for custom-made brogans; up to $145 for civilian shoes.
Comments: This should be one of the first items a new member buys since very few veteran members have loaner brogans. Although Brogan Heel Plates are often dug up in historic civil war campsites, no heel plates are found on new brogans in museums since the Army did not issue them. These can cause potentially dangerous slips on modern surfaces. On the plus side, they add a nice clicking noise to marching troops on a hard surface. Current belief is that the soldiers purchased these items from sutlers and put them on their heels to reduce the heel wear.
A liberal application of shoe/boot oil (such as Pecard’s) after each event, especially after a wet event, will keep your brogans comfortably soft and water resistant, adding life to these traditionally expensive items. Buy them wide enough for all your toes to wiggle. Look for substantial construction and thick soles for your new “gunboats” (as they were called by the soldiers), as cheap brogans are no bargain when you march at events. The use of modern cushioned insoles is allowed since they will be hidden. New recruits may wear plain black (not shiny) leather boots or plain black (not shiny) lace-up shoes for their first few events until they purchase period footwear.
TROUSERS or TROWSERS (Needed)
A. SKY BLUE FOOT PATTERN WOOL TROWSERS kersey weave, as issued from Federal Depots. One may see photos of originals on page 127 of the Time-Life Book Echoes of Glory - Arms and Equipment of the Union.
B. DARK BLUE FOOT PATTERN WOOL TROWSERS (only for early war impressions); One may see a photo of an original pair on page 121 of the Time-Life Book Echoes of Glory - Arms and Equipment of the Union. Someone joining us from another unit might have these, but we would prefer the sky-blue pants.
Estimated
Cost for new: $75-150
Comments: At the start of the war, enlisted trowsers (as they were called) were dark blue. General Order 108, issued December 18, 1861, authorized sky blue trowsers for National troops. The arsenals still required the trowsers to be hand-sewn, and trowsers were issued in only four sizes (1,2,3, and 4) or as the soldiers said “There are two sizes-too big or too small”. Trowsers were issued to a given company in bales of 100 pairs, with the number of each size being determined statistically. Because of this sizing and distribution method, the trowsers would NOT be likely to fit an individual soldier. Soldiers traded trowsers, rolled-up or cut off trowser legs, and, if necessary, sewed other men’s cut-off fabric to the bottom of their own trowsers. An entire modern reenacting unit with perfectly tailored trowsers is over represented in the hobby; Trowsers are properly worn when the top of the waistband is positioned at or slightly above the natural waist (over the navel).
NCOs wear a blue stripe on the outside of the trowser legs, covering the seam, with the width being: corporals, ½“ and sergeants, 1½”. Note: if you ever have your trowsers dry- cleaned, be sure to tell the counter person: “NO creases”. (This writer has never had his cleaned). Few items draw as much ridicule from knowledgeable reenactors as obvious (modern pressed) creases in trowsers. A properly constructed pair of trowsers will have the period correct “baggy” seat area. Caution: Many sutlers sell trowsers tailored (cut) in the modern fashion rather than the period correct fashion. Soldiers let the pants legs down or rolled up. Avoid the “farby” (farby = reenactor term for an very unauthentic impression) look of blousing (no photographic evidence has surfaced).
HEADGEAR for “FULL DRESS” EVENTS (Needed)
A. U.S. MODEL 1858 “HARDEE” U.S. ARMY HAT “dressed out” (BUT only if you have a FROCK COAT); this would include the INFANTRY HORN, the side pin up DEVICE, the BLACK OSTRICH FEATHER and the BLUE INFANTRY CORD. One may see photos of originals on page 120 and 152 of the Time-Life Book Echoes of Glory - Arms and Equipment of the Union; Pin the hat up on the right side.
B. U.S. MODEL 1858 FORAGE CAP in dark blue with flat horizontal black leather brim. See pages 182 & 183 of the Time-Life Book Echoes of Glory - Arms and Equipment of the Union; BUT only if you have a SACK COAT; Commonly referred to as a “Bummer” or “Type 1”, with INFANTRY HORN insignia affixed to the top of the cap. Brims are not to be curled baseball style as that is definitely “farby”. However, soldiers did push them up, perhaps as a sign of “fashion” OR, a BLACK SLOUCH HAT. One may see photos of originals on page 184 to187 of the Time-Life Book Echoes of Glory - Arms and Equipment of the Union, with INFANTRY HORN and BLUE INFANTRY CORD. We prefer these over the commonly seen Model 1861 forage cap (McDowell pattern), also called the Type II, with downward-sloping curved black leather brim the type that was commonly issued to the Army of the Potomac. Note: properly styled civilian hats will have sweatbands made of leather or blackened cotton duck or twill, and have a bound grosgrain ribbon on the brim and a full lining. The brim on slouch hats should be curled up if at all (not down, in the later, cowboy fashion).
HEADGEAR for “FIELD or
CAMPAIGN” EVENTS (Needed)
A. U. S. MODEL 1858 “HARDEE” HAT without any “dressing out” i.e. plain OR a BLACK SLOUCH HAT OR a U.S. MODEL 1858 FORAGE CAP in dark blue with flat horizontal black leather brim without any insignia with either SACK or FROCK.
ESTIMATED COST FOR NEW: Hardee Hats-$50-$100, Forage Caps-$35-$65, Slouch hats - $50-$100.
Comments: Prewar Federal regulations for the caps called ‘Shakos’ specified that a brass regimental number and company letter be affixed to the front. When the stiffener was removed, allowing the cap’s top to fall, the shakos became forage caps. The regulation was never changed, so the brass remained on the front. It was never intended for a soldier to poke holes in the top of the cap but it is true, however, that many militia units and some state volunteer troops adorned the tops of their caps with brass insignia and if in the Army of the Potomac, cloth corps badges. Since we are following Regular Army guidelines, the UNIT brass should only be worn on the front of the cap, if worn at all. Since we portray an undesignated Federal unit, and could fall in with any other Federal troops at an event, we should leave the brass off our caps entirely. Frankly, as the war wore on, more and more of the troops wore less and less of the shiny stuff. Since our impression is a typical Western Theater unit, for example, Army of the Tennessee, an authentic slouch hat is perfectly acceptable for the field instead of the issue headgear due to the extra protection they afford the wearer from the sun and rain. Men in this period always wore a hat when they were outside. Although they may wear them inside (a must when “under arms”), they would be removed when speaking to a lady or an elder or when sitting in the presence of ladies. It was considered poor manners to just “tip” one’s hat to a lady of the period. The hat should come completely off the head. Note the distinction we make for Dress vs. Field Events. Try to build to the standard of the Dress Uniform, since you can always plain down to the Field Uniform.
COATS for “FULL DRESS”
EVENTS (Needed)
A. FROCK COAT with SCALES and CHEVRONS and SERVICE STRIPES. Regulation Issue as specified in the Revised U.S. Army Regulations of 1861 Section 1482; of 18oz. (heavy) weight dark blue wool with 1/8” thick light blue (denoting the infantry branch of service) piping (trim) at the cuffs and at the high, stand-up collar; Breast is padded (sometimes referred to as “quilted”) inside and of polished cotton; Sleeve linings are of cotton muslin; Two functional small (5/8” diameter) brass “eagle” buttons at each cuff; Breast is closed with nine (9) evenly spaced large (3/4” diameter) brass “eagle” buttons; Two large (3/4” diameter) brass “eagle” buttons at the back waist just at the top of the pleated “tail” area.
Since they were issued unhemmed, each soldier was to hem the coat midway between the top of the hip and the knee approx. mid-thigh), With hand sewn or machine sewn button holes; may or may not have pockets in the “tails”; may or may not have a hook & eye closure at the throat and/or tails; Refer to the photo of an original found on page 121 or page 161 of the Time-Life Book Echoes of Glory - Arms and Equipment of the Union as a model. Note: because of the Texas heat, some veterans have removed the lining.
B. SACK COAT To meet the Revised U.S. Army Regulations of 1861, Section 1485: “for fatigue purposes – a sack coat of dark blue flannel extending half-way down the thigh and made loose, without sleeve or body lining, falling collar, inside pocket on the left side, four coat buttons down the front”; Composed of 10 oz. (light weight) flannel with a twill weave; May or may not be lined since research shows that lined sack coats were produced; Hand sewn (historically accurate) or machine button holes; One may see a photo of original sack coats on page 125 of the Time-Life Book Echoes of Glory - Arms and Equipment of the Union, though details are not evident.
Estimated Cost for new: FROCK COAT $180- $250. SHOULDER SCALES, with attachments $60-$80 for the pair. sack coat: $60-125. CHEVRONS & SERVICE STRIPES-$5-$15.
Comments: The frock coat is commonly referred to as the “dress” or “winter uniform” coat. While it was certainly worn for dress parade and other ceremonial occasions, it was the uniform coat for infantry. If you have one, you may wear it whenever you wish. It is the only one of the two issue coats on which you may wear service stripes. Since it is the authorized coat, it is always correct for balls (period term for formal dances), parades, recruiting events, military ceremonies, or weddings. A sack coat would be incorrect, though allowed.
Note that the sack coat was designed for work details only, but, of course, there is ample evidence that most soldiers wore them in combat. Sgt’s and Cpl’s will wear chevrons on the Frock and Sack Coats. But, to be truly in full dress uniform, especially for parade events, you would add the shoulder scales and the fully “trimmed” Hardee Hat. The white gloves are part of the full dress uniform and will be needed for parades by all CG members. Drummers and fifers don’t wear gloves while playing, but will loop them over the belt on the right side.
As with the trowsers, the Sack Coats were also issued in only four sizes (#1 corresponding to modern 36 chest size, # 2 corresponding to modern size 38, #3 corresponding to modern size 40, and #4 corresponding to modern size 42), so it makes sense that an entire modern reenacting unit, with perfectly tailored coats are over represented in the hobby; According to regulations, recruits were issued a lined coat, but, subsequent issues of the fatigue coat were of the unlined variety. Most coats available at sutlers are made from very thick (18 oz.) wool. Not only can these be uncomfortably warm (though no warmer than a frock coat), there is a growing movement to produce the correct weight of material, which was considerably lighter. One sutler, C & D Jarnagin Co. sells a 10 oz. sack coat for a reasonable price and actually charges more for the incorrect 18 oz. ones. Buttons were always the large Federal eagle type, with no letter designation on them.
Remember the culture of the period: men simply did not go out in public without a coat. So, if you are in “shirtsleeves” in camp (provided there are no ladies present), you should put on a coat (and button the top button per regulation) whenever you leave camp.
If you are over age 30, consider one set of red-trimmed combat service stripes with your other service stripes. This indicates you fought in the Mexican war. Each stripe denotes 5 years of service. This was changed late in the war when 3-year enlistments were running out and the Army changed the requirement to 3 years to encourage reenlisting.
COATS for “FIELD/CAMPAIGN”
EVENTS (Needed)
A. Sack Coat-Mainly because it is cooler.
RIFLE-MUSKET (Needed)
A. US MODEL 1861 (THREE-BAND .58 CALIBER) SPRINGFIELD MUSKET (over 700,000 were made) with Federal issue sling comprised of russet brown oil-finish leather with hook, standing loop, and a sliding loop.
B. BRITISH MODEL 1853 (THREE-BAND .577 caliber) ENFIELD RIFLE-MUSKET (over 500,000 were imported from England) with Federal issue sling; OR MODEL 1861 COLT SPECIAL OR OTHER CONTRACT SPRINGFIELD RIFLE-MUSKET (THREE-BAND .58 caliber) (over 152,000 were made) with Federal issue sling
Estimated Cost for new: $375-$500+, depending on the reproduction model/manufacturer
Comments: We offer the results of a recent study in “Camp Chase Gazette-March 2004”. Of the two brands that a majority of sutlers sell, they consider the Italian made Armi-Sport P-53 best choice for an Enfield (though you will have to remove the inaccurate “1853 Enfield” stamp). A good choice for the Springfield is the Italian made Euro Arms Springfield though it is still heavier then the original at 10 ¼ lbs. The reproduction Springfield’s must be kept scrupulously clean and clear, as there seems to be a higher misfire rate then the originals. The most authentic Springfield is a Japanese made Moriku available from Dixie Gun Works. It is a do it yourself kit and more expensive, but weighs in at 8 ¾ lbs.
All soldiers must pass a safety inspection before any firing or battle reenactments may be done. The typical safety inspection generally include the following checks: (1) clean, unobstructed barrel, (2) half-cock (safety) fully operational, (3) no loose screws or barrel; nothing missing, (4) Full cock trigger operation, (5) rust free metal surfaces, (6) cartridge box inspected to insure that there are no live rounds, that the box is full, that the “tins” are present, and that the cartridges pass the authenticity guidelines, (7) that there are sufficient percussion caps in the cap pouch, (8) a full canteen of water; (9) anything else that the inspector, or the event host requires.
Cleaning the weapon properly is of the utmost importance and it is based upon U.S. Army records that a civil war soldier spent a great deal of time tending to his weapon. There is the modern way and the Civil War expedient method. We will teach you both. And as an additional researched article on whether Enfields are blued or not see this great article- See-http://www.geocities.com/Pentagon/Quarters/1864/enf/enfblue.htm
WAIST BELT and BUCKLE (Needed)
A. U.S.BLACK LEATHER WAIST BELT in either waxed leather or bridle leather, with large lead filled BRASS OVAL “US” BUCKLE, with or without brass “belt keeper”; Refer to the photos of originals found on pages 202-203 of the Time-Life Book Echoes of Glory - Arms and Equipment of the Union as a model.
Estimated Cost for new: $25-$50
Comments: Waist belts, when properly positioned should fit snugly enough so that it does not move when you re-position your cartridge box for loading. Be sure to allow extra adjustment holes for wearing over a greatcoat for cold weather. Periodic use of black shoe polish will keep the leather portions like new. Use of brass polish will bring the metal portions to a fine luster.
CAP POUCH (Needed)
A. ANY CIVIL WAR PERIOD US MODEL SHIELD FRONT (FLAP) CAP POUCH; Refer to the photos of originals found on page 202 of the Time-Life Book Echoes of Glory - Arms and Equipment of the Union as a model.
Estimated Cost for new: $30-$60
Comments: They should come with the wool inside (to better keep your caps inside when you leave the flap open and you run into battle). Some will come with a thin wire nipple (cone) pick used in cleaning your weapon. The cap pouch, when properly positioned on the waist belt, will be on your right side, just to the right of your “US” belt buckle. Periodic maintenance is to use leather preservative on the leather portions. Use of black shoe polish will make it look new for decades.
CARTRIDGE BOX and SLING (Needed)
A. US MODELS 1855, 1857, or 1861 (.58 CALIBER BLACK LEATHER CARTRIDGE BOX with large lead-backed brass “US” box plate & black leather rough (waxed leather) or smooth (bridle leather) cartridge box sling (strap) with lead-backed brass “eagle” breast plate affixed in the proscribed way, box complete with “tins”; Should NOT have inspector’s marks (as used on the later cartridge boxes); Refer to the photos of originals found on page 202& 203 of the Time-Life Book Echoes of Glory - Arms and Equipment of the Union as a model;
B. US MODEL 1864 (March, 1864) .58 caliber black leather cartridge box with large lead-backed brass “US” box plate & black leather rough-out or smooth-out cartridge box sling (strap) with lead-backed brass “eagle” breast plate, box complete with “tins.
Estimated Cost for new: $40-125
Comments: Basically, the cartridge box must generally match the rifle/musket style. Until July 1864 boxes were issued with brass “US” plates on them. All cartridge boxes should have the appropriate tin inserts for safety and for authenticity reasons. Although cartridge boxes often had belt loops, the sling, with the brass eagle medallion, is required. (Trivia note: There were occurrences where Federal soldiers were fined by their Captain if found wearing the cartridge box on their belt or if the breast eagle medallion had been removed from the sling). The sling should be adjusted so that the top of the cartridge box is just below the properly positioned waist belt. A low dragging cartridge box is the mark of a Farb. Periodic maintenance is to use good quality leather preservative on the leather portions. Use of black shoe polish will make it look new for decades. Get an early war version so you will be period correct for any time frame we may reenact.
CANTEEN (Needed)
A. US MODEL 1857 “SMOOTHSIDE” -OR- MODEL 1862 “BULLSEYE” TIN CANTEEN with gray or brown jean wool cover; hemp or leather cord securing the stopper to the canteen (rather than a chain) in conformance to what is known as the “Cincinnati Arsenal” pattern; With either a brown leather strap (pre-war or early war issue) or an off-white canvas duck or cotton web fabric one (wartime issue); One may see photos of originals on pages 206-207 of the Time-Life Book Echoes of Glory - Arms and Equipment of the Union;
B. Either canteen listed in “A.” but with no cover and with either hemp or leather cord or a chain stopper (cork) retainer. Stainless steel is another option, though tin is period correct.
Estimated Cost for new: $30-70, depending on style and material
Comments: Most of these come with a very long strap that should be adjusted by the individual, for comfort by sewing the strap, NOT simply knotting it. The canteen should be adjusted to ride comfortably, usually at or above the waistline, on the left side, resting on the flap of the haversack. It should always be the last thing you put on, as it is always ready for drinking or “water details”. All Color Guard troops will carry a canteen during parades (we are also the water supply for the ladies). Besides the obvious use of drinking, your canteen may be called upon to cool down a heat stroke victim or to wash out someone’s eye(s). If you keep the cover wet, the water inside the canteen will stay cooler. The most common Federal covers, during the civil war, were of cheap jean cloth, since that was the utility cloth of the period. Again, we suggest go for early war look.
To rustproof the inside of your tin canteen, pour melted beeswax or paraffin inside and manipulate until all inside surfaces are covered. Don’t keep anything other than water in the canteen for (1) health reasons – nothing else you carry will better hydrate you; drinks with sugar or alcohol in them will dehydrate you, and (2) nearly anything else will eventually harm the canteen. Soda, fruit drinks, etc. have acids in them that may degrade the solder between the two halves and the sugar in them will attract insects. Be sure to empty your canteen after every event and place it upside down for an hour or so to insure drainage. After draining, store with the cork out to prevent condensation.
SHIRT (Needed)
B. OTHER MILITARY-ISSUED WOOL FLANNEL or OFF-WHITE MUSLIN (COTTON) shirts; mid-19th century CIVILIAN style shirt made of natural materials such as cotton, wool, and wool-flannel. Patterns should be solid, checks, stripes, or broad plaids. Checks, stripes, and plaids should be woven, not printed. Shirts may be machine sewn but with hand sewn button holes; Bleached white (period term: “boiled”) shirts used with a full dress uniform
Estimated Cost for new: $25-125 dependent upon the amount of handwork.
Comments: Buttons were available in many materials: glass, bone, agate, stamped tin, and japanned tin. Wooden buttons were found, usually, only on lower quality shirts at this time. They became more common towards the end of the war. Buttons were typically 1/2-5/8” diameter, and all buttonholes were hand-sewn. If you are just starting out, a plain white shirt under the jacket will work as long as you don’t remove your jacket.
SOCKS or STOCKINGS (Needed)
ESTIMATED COST FOR NEW: $7-20.
Comments: We choose RED socks as the primary choice for the Dress Color Guard. Red socks were a non-issue color, but soldiers might buy them from sutlers or bring them from home, as this was one of the very few ways men could express individuality. We also think it will make a nice flash of color as we march in parades. Surprisingly wool socks are quite comfortable in the Texas heat and will keep your feet warm in cold weather even if they become wet. Wool also lasts longer and is more authentic.
BAYONET (Optional for Parades, Needed for field)
A. U.S. MODEL 1855 “TRIANGULAR SPIKE” BAYONET; Must fit snugly on your weapon’s muzzle and the locking ring must be operable to insure a tight fit; The “flat”, near the top of the socket marked “U S” or no markings (remove “India” if necessary);
B.
BRITISH ENFIELD BAYONET for those members who
opt for a ’53 Enfield Rifle-Musket (though the latest research indicates that
Union troops who were issued Enfield rifle/muskets were issued U.S. bayonets).
Estimated Cost for new: $30-$135
Comments: To keep their bayonet in its original “armory bright” condition the liberal use of modern rust removing materials such as steel wool, extra fine sandpaper and keeping a thin coating of mineral oil (gun oil) on all surfaces of the bayonet will keep it rust free. When stacking arms or when marching with fixed bayonets, the bayonet must be tight.
SCABBARD AND FROG (Optional for parades,
Needed for field)
A. U.S. BLACK LEATHER “GAYLORD PATTERN” SCABBARD with ATTACHED BLACK LEATHER “FROG”. Federal infantrymen carried a scabbard/frog of the Gaylord pattern, regardless of the bayonet carried. The Gaylord pattern is a black leather one-piece scabbard, attached to the frog (the part the waist belt passes through) either with stitching and rivets (early war) or all rivet construction (mid-war), with the scabbard pointing to rearward, at an angle. The frog may be smooth or rough (waxed) leather. Refer to the photo of originals found on page 31 and page 202 of the Time-Life Book Echoes of Glory - Arms and Equipment of the Union as an example;
B. BRITISH ENFIELD TYPE SCABBARD AND SEPARATE FROG
Estimated Cost for new: $30-$60;
Comments: The scabbard’s brass tip guard must be intact on the scabbard, in order to carry a bayonet, for safety reasons. The bayonet scabbard/frog will be on the wearer’s left side. Periodic use of black shoe polish and/or a leather finish will keep the leather portions like new. Use of brass polish will bring the metal scabbard tip to a fine luster.
HAVERSACK (Needed for Parades & Field)
A. US MODEL 1851 HAVERSACK of black painted canvas measuring approximately 11” wide and 12-1/2” deep; with the removable cotton inner bag; Refer to the photo of originals found on pages 210-211 of the Time-Life Book Echoes of Glory - Arms and Equipment of the Union as a model;
B. LATE WAR HAVERSACKS measuring approximately 13” wide and 12-1/4” deep; Commercially available haversacks conforming to the pattern of black, rectangular, and “tarred”.
Comments: A necessity, since it is used for carrying rations, plates, and utensils. Strap is always worn over the right shoulder, the haversack, itself, resting on the left hip. The top of the haversack should be at the level of your elbow at rest. Haversacks usually come with a too-long strap that should be adjusted by sewing the strap, NOT simply knotting it. Periodic maintenance of the haversack only requires the liberal application of boiled linseed oil to the black painted portions and quality leather preservative for the leather strap. Note: an empty haversack is definitely farby as troops generally carried as much food as they could get not knowing how long it might be between supplies. The cup was only carried on the outside if the bag was full. Even for parades, we will carry haversacks as troops seldom were parted from their food (haversack) and water (canteen).
CARTRIDGES (Needed for Field & sometimes at Parades/Memorials if volley
firing expected)
A.
AUTHENTIC BLANK CARTRIDGES: .58 caliber cartridge tubes must be made from “trapezoids” of
light weight, off-white (tan or beige) or light brown paper (newsprint is
perfect, but NOT newspaper-there is a difference, one has ink on it) of the
proscribed size tied with cotton or linen thread in the proscribed way, rolled
to form a tube that is 1/2”– 9/16” diameter and 3-1/2”-3-5/8” in length; The
tied-end of the tube to be packed with sufficient wadding (paper or cotton) to
fill approximately 1” of the tube (replacing the “Minie ball” in blanks); Then,
another tube of the same kind (the “powder tube”) inserted above the wadding; Into this second tube is poured a measured
65 grains of FFFg (3Fg) black powder and the top (open) end flattened over to
one side and folded in the proscribed way, to leave a “biting tail” 1-3/4”-2”
long; Ten blank cartridges packed in
two layers of five each, along with a trapezoid containing twelve (12)
percussion caps at the bottom end, inside an outer wrapper labeled 1861, 1862,
or 1863 “St. Louis Arsenal” and tied with light-weight off-white or brown
string; When completed, the arsenal
pack must fit into the bottom tin of a Model 1855 cartridge box; The model is shown on page 40 of the
Time-Life Book, Echoes of Glory – The Arms and Equipment of the Union.
B.
All other provisions listed in “A.” above, but using
twisted-end tubes (rather than tied ends, on the tube bottoms) of approximately
4-3/4” tall, for economy and speed of manufacture and omitting the percussion
caps; Blank cartridges containing between 60 and 70 grains of FFg (2Fg), FFFg
(3Fg), or FFFFg (4Fg) black powder.
Other homemade versions.
Estimated
Cost for new: $2 - $6 per Blank arsenal pack (of ten
cartridges)
COMMENTS: Since the majority of western theater Union troops were issued the Model 1861 Springfield Rifle-Musket and were issued ammunition from the St. Louis Arsenal, it is this weapon, cartridge, and supplying arsenal that would be first choice. If your weapon of choice were a reproduction British ’53 Enfield, this ammunition would still be used.
A soldier would never have less than a full cartridge box at the beginning of a battle. And, there will be times when you will be asked to bring more than forty rounds (such as at an immersion event). Historically, the Army fined a soldier who sold, or otherwise expended his issued cartridges in unauthorized ways and did not have a full cartridge box when duty called.
Note: white paper and cotton string may be dyed the correct color by soaking the paper in strong coffee and then drying it before use. The addition of liquid dishwashing detergent helps the paper or string soak up the “dye”.
SUSPENDERS or BRACES (Optional)
A. Any mid-19th century style made of period natural materials (linen, cotton, or canvas) with or without leather tabs; May adjust with hand-sewn buttonholes or using tin/brass buckle fasteners; Braces may or may not button to all four front trowser suspender buttons; Braces may or may not cross in back; If suspenders cross in back, suspenders, where they cross, may not be sewn together; May be manufactured or homemade;
B. The common two button (yoke-type) front end braces found at sutlers; may or may not have hand sewn buttonholes; Otherwise, adjusted as specified in “A.” above; May be homemade or manufactured using quality period (natural) materials; Braces may cross in back and may or may not be sewn together where they cross; OR, a belt made with period correct materials, but usually of leather.
Estimated Cost for new: $8-15
Comments: Although the government arsenals required that suspender buttons be sewn onto trowsers, the army did not issue suspenders. Men did not always wear suspenders, going without them, if possible, or choosing a belt instead. Since trowsers had no belt loops, the belt was just wrapped around the waistband and tightened sufficiently. The culture and etiquette of the 19th century caused a man, who was caught in public with his suspenders in view, shame and embarrassment. For the same reason, they would be ashamed if seen in public without a coat or a vest, also, or when outdoors without a hat.
DRAWERS (Optional)
A. U.S. ARMY ISSUE either heavy weight cotton flannel (winter) that come to “just above the ankle” or light weight cotton (summer) that come to “just below the knee”. Refer to the photo of an original found on page 127 of the Time-Life Book Echoes of Glory - Arms and Equipment of the Union as a model;
B. Cotton, linen, or linen/cotton material in the same pattern as “A.” above.
Comments: While period drawers are optional, they are recommended over modern undergarments because at hot events, it is nice to be able to strip down to your drawers and shirt to cool off quickly. You would not be welcome to do this if you were wearing modern garments. This “ensemble” (shirt & drawers) also makes good sleepwear.
GUM RUBBER BLANKET/PONCHO (Optional for Parades,
needed for Field)
A. U.S. GOVERNMENT ISSUE ITEM of Goodyear’s patented vulcanization process, of sealing gum (India) rubber to canvas cloth, producing a waterproof “blanket” measuring 46” x 71”; With small (9/16”) brass grommet holes around the outside edge; OR, the gum blanket derivative, the PONCHO; Refer to the photo of originals found on page 215 of the Time-Life Book Echoes of Glory - Arms and Equipment of the Union as a model;
B. Those gum blankets or ponchos with larger grommets or with incorrect grommet material
Comments: For historical reference, as of November 1861, the infantry were issued rubber blankets; mounted services were issued ponchos. The added advantage of a rubber blanket is that you can lie on it, in some water, and the water doesn’t come up through the neck hole. We do not restrict the usage of a poncho and you are welcome to carry both, if you like. Soldiers were noted for scavenging items they liked from the battlefield and ponchos were quite valued.
KNAPSACK or BEDROLL (Optional for Parades, Needed
for Field)
A. US MODELl1853/55 DOUBLE BAG, early war version of leather and black painted canvas; No unit designation on the back since we are not portraying any particular unit; Refer to the photos of originals found on pages 212-213 of the Time-Life Book Echoes of Glory - Arms and Equipment of the Union as a model; Or a “BLANKET ROLL” of gum blanket (or poncho), wool blanket and shelter half, slung over the shoulder “campaign style”;
B. US MODEL 1864 (LATEWAR) DOUBLE BAG; No unit designation painted on the back; or a “blanket roll” of gum blanket (or poncho), wool blanket and shelter half, slung over the shoulder, “campaign style”.
Estimated Cost for new: $95-$230;
Comments: The knapsack has an
advantage if you plan on attending the immersion events, for it holds your sleeping
gear better than a “blanket roll”. But,
you are cautioned to load it with as little as possible to keep the straps from
cutting into you. How you use those
“dangly” straps in the front is your choice but we prefer to hook them to the
waist belt, pulling the load forward.
By routing the “overcoat straps” on top, through the arm straps, the
load will become more manageable.
Periodic maintenance of the knapsack only requires the liberal
application of boiled linseed oil to the black painted portions and leather
preservative for the leather straps.
Greatcoat (Optional)
A. REGULATION ISSUE as specified in the Revised U.S. Army Regulations of 1861 Section 1596; Of 18oz. (heavy) weight kersey weave (as are the trowsers) in sky blue wool; Single breasted with a roll pleated stand up collar, elbow-length cape, and a back belt; Sleeves have a turned-up cuff that may be turned down to act as a hand muff; Has five (5) large (3/4”) brass “eagle” buttons down the front; The cape has six (6) small (5/8”) brass “eagle” buttons down the front; Issued unhemmed. See how to roll your Greatcoat. See http://www.dougdobbs.com/cwr/greatcoat/rolling%20overcoat.htm
Estimated Cost for new: $150-250
Comments: Although somewhat costly, it is difficult to find a suitable substitute for a greatcoat at cold weather reenactments. It can serve as a second blanket on those REALLY cold nights.
EATING UTENSILS (Optional for Parades/Needed in field)
A. U.S. ISSUE TIN PLATE (approx. 9-1/2” diameter) and a Model 1851 ISSUE TIN CUP; silver knife, fork, and/or spoon in period patterns; A bayonet or ramrod used as a skewer;
B. A tin cup modified with a bail handle to serve as a boiler; Any period correct cup with or without a “field modification”; Small lightweight skillets or a canteen half used as a substitute; A Mucket (a large cup); A “Billie” Cup or other covered boiler.
COMMENTS: Traditionally, every soldier had his own set of mess gear and it was usually kept in his haversack. Tin cups should be carried INSIDE your haversack unless it is so stuffed with “rations” that it will not fit, as was the practice. Period correct forks should have only two or three tines, not the usual (modern) four tines. The period correct method of jabbing the fork into the soil to “clean” it should never be used. We suggest period correct lye soap can be used to clean utensils.
Tin cups and other tin items should never be left for long periods with liquid in them. Drain and/or dry them as soon as possible to prevent rust. Disinfect your mess gear after every event and then coat all tin ware with a light coating of vegetable oil.
SHELTER/TENTAGE
(Optional for Parades/Needed for Field)
A. CAMPAIGN STYLE-Under the stars in cocoon made of shelter half, blanket, gum blanket with or w/o brush or shelter half “shebang”. This is the easiest and probably most used as the war went on. After a hard day of marching, the last thing a soldier wanted to do was look for poles. Besides, an average 500-600 man regiment looking for 300 poles instead of firewood on every campsite was not too efficient. The idea of rifles for poles is mostly fantasy as they would not be readily available in case of attack in a combat zone nor for the mandatory guard duty every soldier would perform. The smart soldier slept with his musket covered by his blanket to reduce the night moisture that caused the inevitable rust and to have instant access in event of attack or early morning assembly.
B. TYPE II (three piece half) U.S. ISSUE SHELTER HALF Tent with hand sewn button holes, hand sewn grommets and either bone or paper-backed tin buttons, erected with the use of wooden tent pegs or pins, hemp tent peg/pin loops, hemp “guy” ropes, and either “cut poles” of saplings or the two piece socketed “issue poles” occupied by two soldiers; OR, the practice of using either one or two gum blankets and/or shelter halves to erect what is commonly referred to as a “shebang”;
C. TYPE I (EARLY WAR) or either of the variants of the late war Type III (two piece half) with hand sewn button holes and grommets, erected with the use of wooden tent pegs, hemp ropes and either “cut poles” or the two piece socketed “issue poles” and without the tent end pieces OR, a Wedge (A-Frame) tent when the event or unit is NOT attempting to portray a “campaign” theme and occupied by four (4) soldiers;
Estimated Cost for new: $30-$95 for one shelter half, dependent upon the level of authenticity you choose.
Comments: The authenticity of shelter half tents took a dramatic leap forward with the publication of the reference book, The Federal Civil War Shelter Tent by Frederick Gaede in 2001. Please refer to this book for guidance. There is no reason for a new member to buy an inauthentic shelter half tent today. They are easily found and are reasonably priced; It is generally agreed that “The Haversack Depot” offers the most authentic shelter halves for the most reasonable price than any other sutler at this time. A good second choice would be C & D Jernigan’s “Maynard” shelter half or those sold by Frazer Bros The shelter-half end pieces are nice to have during inclement weather but there is no known documentation for their actual use in the field during the civil war. The Gaede book also references the practice of 3 soldiers taking their halves to erect a tent using the third piece as an END, giving a longer, more weatherproof tent. The use of tents, especially wedge and wall tents are way overdone at reenactments. More troops sleeping exhausted on their bedrolls without tents would be more authentic.
WOOLEN
BLANKET (Optional for Parades/Needed for Field)
Estimated Cost for new: $70-$165
Comments: Blankets are optional, but are a necessity if you plan on spending the night at cold and/or wet weather events. The specifications for the Federal issue blanket states that it be 5-1/2’ x 7’ and weigh 5 pounds. Authentic reproductions of that blanket are available at select sutlers but at higher cost. Choose your blanket carefully, for early during your first cold morning, you will appreciate having done so. For an example of the U.S. issue blanket, please refer to the photograph on page 13, Volume Eight (“Soldier Life”) of The Photographic History of the Civil War (in Ten Volumes) edited by Francis T. Miller, published in 1911 by the Review of Reviews Co., commonly referred to as “Miller’s”.
During the Civil War, The Military Handbook & Soldier’s Manual (June 1861) simply stated: “keep the hair of the head closely cut, say within an inch and a half of the scalp in every part…” Though there are plenty of photos of soldiers with hair over their ears, there are very few recorded instances of hair that was shoulder length or longer. Oiling the hair and combing it straight back was common. And, be aware that parting hair in the middle was a feminine practice. Also, be careful of hairstyles that are VERY short. The period practice of shaving one’s head was used to rid a soldier of head lice. So, unless you wish to portray that aspect of the war, do not shave your head. In regard to facial hair, the style of the period was to wear long, sometimes, “bushy” sideburns, full mustaches, and/or full beards, but many men were clean-shaven. Young officers often grew beards in order to look older. So, the converse is applicable for those members who are older. The serious living historian should consider using dye or going clean-shaven, especially if your beard is gray.
Weight is a touchy subject in CW reenacting. Period photos show troops pretty lean, (except for the occasional General Officer usually on horseback). In today’s society of super-size fries and cheese pizzas, it’s very difficult to have that period body size. But for a more authentic look we encourage members to do their best to look the part. As a side note, one study observed the most overweight reenactors seem to be Confederate Artillerists and the least overweight Union Infantry in general and Confederate hard-core reenactors in particular.
1. Belt knives or any other sharp or pointed weapon (hatchet, tomahawk) of any period carried on the person;
2. Bandannas or scarves of any kind visible to onlookers.
3. Leggings, commonly called “gaiters”.
4. Anything deviating from your impression for example, holding a coke while in uniform (pour it in your cup, instead).
5. No cigarettes if you smoke (pipes for enlisted and cigars only for officers is most authentic)
6. No jewelry (Exceptions: simple gold wedding rings or authentic reproduction I.D. medallions worn around the neck on a grosgrain ribbon or string);
7. No medals, medallions, brass devices of any kind (such as Irish Harps or the Frontier Brigade Eagle). Exceptions are events where we are portraying a specific unit and the Regimental number or Corps badge may be appropriate.
SUTLERS
Sutlers were the traveling Post Exchanges or malls of the 1860’s. The reenactment unit known as the “Columbia Rifles” has a pretty good list of recommended sutlers and which item they specialize in. Keep in mind no list is definitive, but it’s a good starting point. See sutler recommendations http://www.columbiarifles.org/suppliers.htm
Steve Dawson-UVCG-Austin, TX
Jay Weber-UVCG-Round Rock, TX
With thanks to the Union Army Veterans of Arlington, TX