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I created this as a basic care sheet for Rat and Corn Snakes in general.  If you have any modifications to this page, please email me at [email protected]
Thanks.  -Chris

Housing - It is recommended that your snakes are housed in an vivarium with length approximately 1/2-2/3rds long as they are, height and depth approx. 1/3-1/2 their length.  You can house in larger vivariums if you provide lots of cover, so they can feel safe.  If you put a small snake in a large bare tank they will be extremely stressed...causing multiple possible problems.

Substrate - There are a variety of substrates that can be used, from newspaper, astroturf, aspen (very popular), or a number of manufactured substrates from pet stores. I use Aspen in my tanks, because of the simple maintainance.  You put about 2-3 inches of it in the bottom, and then just spot-clean as it the sanke uses the bathroom.  This stuff is very absorbant, and controls odors very well.  As they are babies up through the first years of their lives, the entire tank wont need to be changed out but once every couple months, as adults a little more often.  Aspen, carefresh, and other such substrates are also good because the snakes can and will burrow in it. Also don't use too much, especially if you are using an UTH (Under Tank Heater).  If you use an UTH and have a thick bed of substrate, the snakes like to burrow at times.  An UTH heater that is providing an 85 degree temperature on the top of 3 inches of aspen is probably over 95 degrees on the surface, which could cause serious burns to your snake. 
Newspaper could be used also and just throw it away and replace, however this is not as aesthetically pleasing. 

Heating/Lighting - You can use an under tank heater (UTH) or heat light.  There is no special light needed for rat snakes, in fact bright lights are not ideal in the vivarium.  Fluorescent or incandescant black lights for nocturnal viewing will not harm your snake.  Rat snakes are generally nocturnal animals, so the bright light could possibly scare them more than anything.  If you wish to use a black light, you can get one from Home Depot or Wal-Mart for a fraction of the price of one at a pet store.  It is the same thing.  No matter if you use a black light or UTH, you will need to get a thermometer.  I recommend going to Wal-Mart, you can get a digital indoor/outdoor thermometer for approximately $13.95, and it shows you both temperatures on one screen.  You want to keep your temperatures about 75-85 for babies, 70-80 for adults.  A dimmer or thermostat is also a requirement for either method.  You can pick up one of these at Home Depot for $10 (A Table-Lamp dimmer.  Plugs in and you plug the light into it.)  You can also get an indoor/outdoor thermometer combined with a humidity meter for $14.95 from Wal-Mart.

Water bowl - Keep it on the cool side of the tank.  It will stay 5-10 degrees cooler than the ambient air temperature, and the snake can get in there to cool off if needed; so get one large enough for the snake to fit in.  I use a flower pot basin from Home Depot..doens't look half bad either.  Change the water and clean your dish twice a week.  For the hatchlings I use a little pyrex glass bowl.

Hiding spots - Minimum of two; one on the cool side, one on the warm side.  This way the snake doesn’t have to decide between being comfy and being warm/cool.  You need to make sure that the hide is shallow enough that the snake can feel it up along his or her back, this helps with the feeling of security.  Almost anything can be used for a good hide for the snake...one of the more aesthetically pleasing ones is a ceramic hide made by Exo-Terra which you can purchase from your local pet store (LPS).  You could also take a coconut and cut it in half, remove the meat, cut one hole in each, and that will create a hide.  However, for smaller snakes you need smaller hides...they need to feel safe.  You could also cut down a yogurt cup or small plastic cup with a hole in it (upside down of course).  You could also use a cardboard paper towel tube stapled at one end...the options are endless.

Climbing structure - This is not a requirement, but rat snakes LOVE to climb.  If you are going to take twigs or whatnot from the trees outside make sure you either soak them in a 5% bleach solution, or spray with pro-vent a mite (or something of the like).  I have some 1/2" wooden dowels cut and held together with zip ties, and artificial vines hung all over them, and my snakes love it.  Your snakes as babies will probably stay in their hides or on these branches, as these are the two places they feel the safest.

Food - I, as well as most all knowledgeable snake owners, reommend frozen/thawed mice or rats.  The reason why is because when the snakes grow older they will need bigger mice/rats...and the snake may not be hungry, therefore the mouse or rat may feel like attacking your snake.  This can cause serious damage to your snake... as well as large vet bills.  You can order frozen rodents in bulk quantity.  My favorite business...the only one I will order from any more... is Big Cheese Rodents.  They give honest shipping prices, small box charge but thats better than a BS shipping cost, like others do.  They vacuum seal rodents in bags of 50, and they can stay in your freezer for up to two years, saving you on shipping charges. 


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