| If the term sport climbing was in the dictionary it is likely that Jack's Canyon would be the definition. Over 200 routes from 5.5 to 5.13+ are currently established in the Main area with more in other parts of the canyon. Closely spaced routes allow a lot of climbing in a day. All of the routes are well protected with bolts and there are only a few that are not worth doing. The few that aren't worth climbing were not cleaned well and may get better with age and a few ascents. The climbing media loves to beat up on Jack's, saying it's not worth going to and is dumb, but everyone I've met there had a great time. The biggest controversy is about the manufacture of holds. By some peoples standards all of the routes are chipped as all routes require removal of loose, dangerous rock. Some routes are "comfortized" which may range from removing uncomfortable parts of holds to more of a safty issue of dulling razor sharp holds that could well send you to the E.R. for stitches. Other routes are without a doubt manufactured. Despite the flawed masterpieces Jack's is a worth while visit for most. Over inflated grades are mostly a thing of the past. While some grades may feel a tad soft, I feel it has more to do with the gymnastic style of climbing suiting the gymnastic style of climber. While I love climbing at Jack's I DO NOT support the intentional manufacture of routes here or anywhere. If you don't like it either get out and bolt something, its not very often an established route gets chipped. |
