A Vacation in Middle-Earth

A VACATION IN MIDDLE-EARTH

"New Zealand begins with the sea and ends with the sea. Understand this and you begin to comprehend New Zealand and the New Zealander." - Maurice Shadbolt

Speak of New Zealand and images of Kiwis, Maori warriors and sheep (approximately 10 sheep to every person) come readily to mind. More recently, New Zealand became even more famous for providing the landscape (i.e. "Middle-earth") in the epic "Lord of the Rings" movie trilogy.

With a population of about 4 million people spread out over a land mass about the size of Japan, New Zealand is one of the most sparsely populated countries in the world. Its spectacular landscape of rolling meadows, clear lakes, snow-capped alps, steaming volcanoes, temperate rainforests, fiords and glaciers create the perfect holiday setting.

I visited New Zealand during its late spring for over 10 days in November 2004, and here are some of the highlights of my trip:

Christchurch

Dubbed as the most English "Garden City" in the Southern Hemisphere, Christchurch is the second largest city in New Zealand. Over 150 years ago, Christchurch was originally planned by the Church of England as a model and the European settlement began in the 1820s.

Cathedral Square - the Gothic-style Cathedral is the focal point of the Central Square in the heart of Christchurch. You can board the beautifully restored Christchurch trams which are an important part of Christchurch city life, to view the city sights. You can even enjoy dining in the Tramway Restaurant at the same time!
Mona Vale Garden - view the old homestead and beautiful English-style gardens with a rose garden. Try punting on the Avon River!
Canterbury Museum - Built in 1877, this historical building is world-renowned for its collection of Maori artefacts. This is where I found out more about the Canterbury's first people - the Maori and the early European settlers as well as the discovery and exploration of Antarctica.
Christchurch Arts Centre - Once the site of the old University of Canterbury, there are many arts and craft studios nestled within. The granite building has a distinctive architectural style that is typical of the Gothic Revival period. You can also see the restored classics lecture room. Don't miss the Fudge Cottage Tour to witness the crafting of handmade fudge - watch as the fudge is poured hot onto the cooling table and taste the different yummy fudge flavours!

Queenstown

Queenstown - the jewel in New Zealand's crown - attracts an increasing number of tourists every year with its numerous adventure activities, shops, cafes and restaurants.

To get a panoramic view of the mountain ranges (the second longest in New Zealand) across the beautiful Lake Wakatipu, I took the Gondola ride from Bob's Peak, high above Queenstown. Later, I headed to Walter Peak Farm via the vintage steamship TSS Earnslaw - the "Lady of the Lake". This is the last surviving and the grandest steamship in New Zealand, which was used previously to transport goods and passengers across the Lake Wakatipu. At Walter Peak, I joined the farm excursion and tried horse-riding for the first time! Being a beginner, I took the safe guided horse trek (about 40 min) across the farmland, enjoying the scenic views while traversing the grasslands.

Milford Sound

Milford Sound is regarded by many as one of the scenic wonders of the world. From Queenstown, I boarded the coach which drove along Lake Wakatipu and the Milford Road which is a stunning Alpine drive. You would also experience the awesome scale of the landscape and wilderness of the temperate rainforest in the Fiordland National Park which is one of the wettest places in the world. Highlights include the Homer Tunnel, which is constructed in 1935 and was not completed until 1953, the scenic Upper Hollyford and the Chasm Walk, where the Cleddau River plunges through a narrow chasm 22 m deep!

The weather was sunny in the late afternoon as I boarded the overnight cruise Milford Wanderer, which offers bunk-style accommodation. Cruising along Milford Sound to the Tasman Sea, the friendly crew guided us for a look-out of many waterfalls and wildlife. I took a jet-boat ride and managed to see penguins at the shores and seals basking on the rocks! However, there was a heavy rain pouring during the evening till the next morning and the great rock walls streamed with waterfalls including the Bowen Falls.

West Coast Glaciers

At the West Coast Glaciers, I took a 20-minute walk at sunrise to the picturesque Lake Matheson. The lake is like a natural mirror, reflecting the beauty of Mount Cook and Mount Tasman on its tranquil water. This was followed by a full-day ice climbing trip to the Fox Glacier. The Fox Glacier is unique as it is located in a temperate rainforest environment and began its spectacular advance into the valley in the mid 1980s. Wearing boots, instep-crampons and a raincoat over 3 to 4 layers of clothing, we followed the nature guides up the freshly-cut ice steps of the ever-changing glacier in the rain. It wasn't long before I realised that I was not fully prepared physically and mentally for the gruelling glacier climb. But I was glad that I stuck to the challenge and did not give up. The stunning view of the upper glacier at the rocky summit was indeed a sight to behold!

Akaroa

Akaroa was a French settlement where a charming colonial style predominates. The town is now a haven for holiday makers and filled with cafes, shops and restaurants. Boarding the Akaroa Harbour Cruise, we saw the rare White-Flippered blue penguins, the New Zealand fur seals lazing on the rocks, and the ever-playful Hector's dolphins. The dolphins are seen regularly along the Banks Peninsula, which results from the formation and erosion of the Lyttlelton and Akaroa volcanoes. You can even swim with the dolphins here!

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