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DRYING HYDRANGEAS
Cathy Tolman
Hydrangeas are one of the most satisfying and long-lasting flowers to dry, yet one of the most difficult to dry successfully. In truth, it isn’t the drying that is difficult, it is the timing of cutting the heads that is difficult. The following instructions relate only to H. macrophylla, or Mophead Hydrangeas. Each other variety is harvested at a different time in its development and some are not suitable for drying at all.
The most obvious time to cut the heads would be at the height of their color, but this is not at all the case. The showy blossoms that we see are not the flowers at all; they are, in fact, leaf bracts. The actual flowers are the tiny pinhead-sized clusters in the center of each small “floret.” The signs to look for in timing the harvest of the Hydrangeas are the following: 1) The florets (or bracts) should feel leathery to the touch; 2) The actual flowers should be opened; and 3) The color might begin to fade a bit. Usually, this begins to occur in July in our area. You will have a fairly long window of opportunity to harvest—I have harvested as late as November in a really busy year.
When the time is right harvest the heads on a clear, dry morning, after the dew has dried. H. macrophylla blooms on new old wood so you do not want to cut back the stems very far—ideally only to the first or second leaf node (point of new growth showing on the stem). Thus, you have a long stem of old wood with a tip of new wood—new old wood. Depending upon the size of your harvest, allow several hours to prepare your Hydrangeas for drying.
Very carefully go through every single head, removing every bit of brown or otherwise imperfect floret. Don’t worry if it seems you are plucking away half of the head. It is a necessary step and you will be sorry later if you don’t. Once the heads are dry and brittle it is impossible to clean them. Also, clean off any insects, as Hydrangeas are safe haven for little slugs, tiny transparent grasshoppers and a very small inchworm creature that will eat all of your flowers if left alone.
Gather the heads together in small bunches of five or six, alternating the heads so they are not pressing against each other, and bind with rubber bands. Hydrangeas will dry in whatever shape you direct them. You will want to keep full round heads. Hang them in a dark dry place—I line the eaves of my attic garage with bunches. They dry rather quickly, usually in a couple of days.
After they are dry, inspect them again for any insect damage. Since you cleaned them so well before hanging, any damage indicates an escaped critter—and you must find him before he eats your entire crop! Store your dried Hydrangeas in a cool dry place away from sunlight.
If you only have a few to dry, an alternative method is to put one inch of water in a vase, put the stems of the cleaned Hydrangeas in the water and allow the water to evaporate.
In either case, you can use the heads whole (I stabilize the color with several coats of different shades of Design Master floral spray available at Michael’s) or you can snip them apart for use in potpourri and other projects.
For use in potpourri, you can also pull the fresh cleaned heads apart and press the individual “blossoms” in a flower press or in the pages of a telephone book until they are completely dry.
Following these directions, the form of the Hydrangea heads will remain beautiful for years, requiring only an occasional touch-up with Design Master paint if you have chosen to use it. Of course, the natural unsprayed Hydrangeas will fade to tawny shades and are gorgeous in their own right. CT
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