PREGO, PREGO - SICILY 2004 - PICTURES & MORE
SICILY 2004 - my pictures & a few words...
HISTORY & LOCATION
Sitting between mainland Italy and the northern coast of Africa, Europe's 5th largest island - the Italian region known as "Sicily" - has been enriched over several millenia by changing hands between many owners which have so far included the Greeks, Romans, Arabs, Normans, Spanish, Austrians, the British, the Nazis and currently the Italians. Each group has left some stamp of their identity behind - in particular the Romans, Arabs, Normans and Greeks.
25,400 square kilometres is size, Sicily sustains a population of 5 million. Rugged and mountainous, with a stretches of beaches and cliffs forming the coastline, and hosting an active volcano - Mount Etna - Sicily is an invigorating island for the senses.
THE PEOPLE
History has made the Sicilians a tough and proud, yet friendly, warm people. They speak virtually no English, but still many of them will try to help you in any way they can - giving useful advice, pointing out directions etc if they see you are lost or have hit a communication barrier with another Sicilian. Through a series of hand signals and occasional lapses into German and an odd English word thrown in here and there, communication is eventually managed with a 50% success rate. The service industry contrary to this came across as efficient but somewhat curt for the most part, so if you want friendliness you'll find it more successfully on the street.
THE MAFIA
Also known as the "Cosa Nostra", a true synopsis of this island would be woefully incomplete without reference to the island's most interwoven sons - "The Mafia". Submerged deep into the island's psych as well as in numerous businesses and in the government agencies and beyond, the Cosa Nostra's impact is huge - perhaps equal to shaping this island as mothernature's own Mount Etna!
MAKING BIG MONEY ON EASY STREET
Here then (very briefly!) is how it works, focusing on three well established Mafia big money enterprises:
COCAINE: Imported to Sicily courtesy of South American suppliers, this potent product is stored at various pizza houses and similar businesses on the island which are then used as "factories" from which the goods are then shipped for sale to those with large expendable incomes in cities like London or New York and to some universities such as England's Cambridge or Oxford where daddy's credit card goes that little bit further.
HEROIN: Arriving into Sicily courtesy of business contacts in the Middle East and in the Far East, the "Big H" is mostly the preferred substance demanded by the poorer, deprived areas of the the world's cities, and is exported there in a similar manner as above and hence these two markets of high demand are covered in one go; logical business sense.
DOING THE LAUNDRY: And how are all these millions hidden from the ever-prying eyes of authority - simple - "Abusivismo" - illegal construction. In 2000, over 4,790 illegal houses were erected around the island and this sealed Italy's place at pole position as the largest consumer of concrete in the world.
CAN ITALY WIPE OUT THE MAFIA?: Many futile attempts by the Italian government have been made, especially in the last few years to eradicate the Mafia. However as many have found out the hard way, the Cosa Nostra never take too warmly to any attempts to extinguish their huge "business empire" and this has resulted in numerous high profile murders in Sicily, particularly in the capital Palermo, mostly of judges, police chiefs and the like. If the Italians are genuine about removing them permanently they will require a lot more resources to be inputted than the current state of play. Luckily for the tourist there is virtually no chance of ever coming across this "invisible" underground network that some Sicilians even today claim does not really exist!!!
TOURING THE ISLAND
Mothernature and the hand of humans have together cultivated an island worthy of much exploration, and so follows a brief summary of the seven areas of interest for which this focus shall be on....
PALERMO
Capital of Sicily and home to 750,000 people, the city is quite an interesting one to explore around but is not really one for those who do not favour the big city elements of crowds of people, traffic and noise, however it does have a certain charm in it's crumbling buildings, narrow streets and ubiquitous balconies. However a skip along the way from here by a short train ride brings one to....
CEFAL�
A small fishing village, sitting at the foot of the fearsome crag La Rocca, this is medieval in appearance with winding, sloping streets and a 30 minute climb to the peak of La Rocca is rewarded with scenic views over the village and coastline. And then heading eastwards to....
TAORMINA
Perched on the side of a section of steep, rocky coastline on the east coast of the island Taormina is truely magical, both in it's setting and in it's very appealing village charm which is also able to boast an exciting and rich history - particularly the presence here of the Greeks who among other things constructed the perfect horseshoe Greek Theatre built in 3 BC, whose position commands a king's view over this medieval city with Mount Etna as the backdrop!
CATANIA
Another big city and the main entry point for chartered flights to Sicily, Catania's 385,000 population seem to buzz around with more crowds and busy streets than Palermo. However an exploration around here uncovers many places worthy of the camera lens including a moated Norman Castle and a mysterious elephant monument in the centre of a Unesco Heritage site made from lava and carrying an Egyptian obelisk on it's back! Apparently the elephant possess magical powers to calm the restless activity of Etna. However with 12,000 Catanian lives lost to one such eruption in 1669 it seems they will need more than a magic elephant to watch over this city. And as for the lady herself, read on......
* MOUNT ETNA *
Standing at a height of 3,350 metres, Mount Etna is Europe's largest live volcano and one of the most active in the world. Driving up by 4 wheel drive more than half way up as high as our chosen road would take us, the rest of our climb was by foot, which was quite simply the best way to do it taking it all in at our own pace the mysterious and enchanting volcanic landscape that comprises this true wonder of nature. Possibly like walking on the moon but with gravity, a gravity that I can assure you, you will notice as you peer over into the lava lakes from the precarious edges that form some parts of this chosen route. Ascending to around 2,100 metres a tad less than I thought we'd done but high enough to appreciate the scale of things, we settled for lunch in an extinct crater! No table cloth dining here but tough to beat for location! Apparently it's possible to ascend to the peak but this requires paying a substantially higher fee to the local Mafia who control the peak of Etna. Quite likely worth paying but for now low clouds pretty much meant little viewing up there at this time of year. However our guide decided afterwards to take us on a very rewarding excursion to two of Etna's local towns for a cappuccino, some ice-cream, a medieval castle visit and a view of the Cyclops........but that's another story, so let's get moving onto........
SYRACUSE
Once claimant to the title of the city of supreme power in Europe some time ago, Syracuse's multi-layered history is nothing to be frowned upon. With it's ancient city centre at Ortigia set on an island connected by a short bridge or two, the setting is pleasant enough and with odd Roman ruin and the Jewish quarter there's some reasonable camera moments but it's diverse and interesting history is defied by what you will see visually but nevertheless the big draw here is actually back on the mainland and up the road (a short bus ride) to the Neopolis Archaeological Park with it's sparkling white 5th century BC Greek Theatre cut out of the rock and commanding a proud view over the city (attempting to outdo the one at Taormina perhaps...), and also the "Garden of Paradise" (catacomb quarries with citrus and magnolia trees) and the 2nd century AD Roman Amphitheatre once used for gladiatorial combats and horse races.
AGRIGENTO
And if it's temples you're cup of tea then Agrigento is the stop for you... home to the "Valley of the Temples". Located on the island's south coast, this town is pretty enough in itself and calls for a wander round it's hill-hugging streets but it's the what the Greeks and Romans have left behind that will really grab your senses... several Greek temples and a Roman village exist in several states of ruin from piles of rubble to almost intact structures which leave one to simply wonder at the wealth and luxury being reflected here that was once ancient Agrigento which brings home the stark realty of times a-changing when one bears in mind that Agrigento is today now one of Italy's poorest towns......
PICTURE THIS!
So without further delay, here is the above as sighted thru the trusty (or is that rusty?) camera lens......!! COPY & PASTE the following link into your WEB BROWSER and Press Return or contact me if you experience any problems Viewing The Slideshow.... HAVE FUN!
Best Wishes!
J.E.L.