know whats going on so i can't really freak out. Being in panic for me isn't increadible nerve racking
and i won't flip out but my heart does start beating trmendously fast, and i do get scared but i don't
show it.
when i was surfing with my friend one day about 3 years ago, we were having a good session and
then all of a sudden he was going into shore so i took my last wave and then paddled in. he was
sitting on the beach holding his head, i noticed that his tip of his board was broken and i though he
was crying over his board. well i asked him what was wrong and he looked up at me and goes, "is it
bad". i was thinking to my self "O YEAH" but i told him no it's not bad at all. you'll be fine. it just so
happend that he hit his head on the tip of his board and the tip was about an inch or so into his head
above his eyebrow. It was absolutly discusting! I called my mom and she picked us up and brought
him to the hospital.
he is fine now and just has a pretty sweet scar but the reason i told that story is cause i could have
freaked out at the sight of that but i didn't and stayed calm.