Brief Stories of My Life As a Seaman
Hiske (Henry) Onstwedder, Grand Rapids, Mi. 1875--1953
My earliest recollections go back fifty two years ago to a small quiet country
community in the Netherlands known as Nieuwe Pekela. It was there I was born on
September 16, 1875.
I was only 14 years old when I decided to become a sailor so in the latter part
of 1889 I left my home to go to Delfshaven, a suburb of Rotterdam in the
Netherlands. Here I boarded a schooner by the name of "Anna". We took on cargo
(ballast) and were towed through Nieuw Waterweg, or Maas River into the North
Sea.
I already thought I was a seaman, but when we came out into the open sea, I
found I was not. After I overcame the initial shock of it, it wasn't so bad. As
we travelled on we came to the English Channel. On one we could see France
(Calais), on the other side England (Dover). After passing through the English
Channel, we entered the great Atlantic Ocean. We passed Finnestrere and after
some days we again saw land. we were now entering the Strait of Gibraltar. In
very clear weather it is possible to see land on both sides. On your left the
Rock of Gibraltar and on the right Africa. This is said to be the strongest fort
in the world. It is very high and you are able to see it from quite a distance.
Every vessel, no matter from which country is compelled to show its colors both
day and night when passing the fort. On another trip I actually entered the
harbor of Gibraltar, and have more to say of this fort later.
As we proceeded we had a stoong headwind to contend with, but were very
fortunate in having a strong current with us. Perhaps you did not know, but
there is a stream or current for about five miles into the Mediterranean Sea.
Where all this water goes no one knows, since the Mediterranean Sea is just like
a lake with no outlet and not much of a tide. In comparison, England, Holland
and other lands have a tide which is known as the "Spring Tide" with a variance
of 20 feet and at times even more.
We were gaining all the time and the coast of Spain came into view now and then.
Finally we saw what we had been looking for, namely, a pilot ship. It had the
name "Benicarlo" in its sail and the Spanish flag on top. We put our flag in the
front mast, this being a sign we were looking for a pilot. They came close to us
and shouted "espanjols" (hello). Our skipper said "Si sinjosa" and explained he
wanted to go to Bencarlo, so the pilot boarded our ship and took over command.
It was the first time I had ever seen a Spaniard, and I did not receive a very
good impression as I compared this pilot with the Holland pilots I had seen back
home. They were always very tidy and clean in their neat uniforms, but this
pilot was just the opposite as he was not even wearing a uniform. Soon we came
in sight of Benicarlo and as there is no harbor there, we had to anchor about a
mile from shore.The Spaniards came along side with all kinds of fruits such as
grapes, oranges and even wine. What a tough looking bunch, so ragged and dirty.
As I said before, my first impression certainly was that I didn't think too
highly of them. Their conduct and filthy language did not at all change this. As
a boy of 14 years, I was indeed stunned by such a low class of people.
We were unloaded of our ballast which consisted of barrels of water. These were
emptied and refilled with various qualities of fine wines. After the cargo was
loaded we left, bound for Rotterdam. We had stormy weather most of the way back
and I was getting a good many bumps. The older seamem told me that I didn't have
my "sea-legs" yet. Finally we reached the Netherlands and went to the Depot
Harbor in Rotterdam to unload our cargo.
I did not go out on this same vessel again. It probably was a good thing since
this boat was captured by pirates coming back from the Mediterranean sea. These
pirates who live on the coast of Morocco are fishermen by trade. In calm weather
it is just too bad for the vessel that falls to their prey. They would take
anything they wanted, loading their small a boats and then going to shore to
dispose of their loot and returning for more.
The current of which I spoke before would bring the large ships quite close to
shore, this of course was to the pirates advantage. Coming in groups of 30 to 40
small boats with 3 or 4 men in a boat and being well armed, it was easy for them
to board large vessel. The Skipper and the First mate were the only ones on the
ship to have guns to resist their brutal attack. Sometimes they went so far as
to kill the crew and sink the ship after looting it.
While raiding the ship of which I am speaking (the schooner "Anna"), the Captain
and Mate were both wounded. When the pirates came aboard the crew hid away. As
the pirates were taking some of the loot, a stiff breeze came up affording the
crew an apportunity to escape. They hoisted the sails and set course for
Gibraltar under direction of the Mate who had been wounded in the legs. The
Captain, J. Velris died. The Mate, Wieger Smit. was a cousin of my then future
wife, Klasine Meyering, both coming from Nieuwe Pekla, Holland. The Holland
government was notified of this brutish attack and sent a Man O' War ship to
Algiers to demand restitution for all the damage that had been done. The
Government of Morocco settled it. I could write much more of this trip, but it
is not my intention to write a book.
After spending some time home on furlough, I went to Rotterdam aboard a Brigg, a
vessel that has more sails than a schooner. We had a mixed crew on this trip,
Germans, one Norwegian, etc. We went from Rotterdam to the North Sea, then
through Skagerak and Kattegat. We could see Copenhagen, the capitol of Denmark,
and on the other side lay Helsingborg, the capitol of Sweden. We came to the
Hallbo, a "light-ship" and then on into the Baltic sea. We also saw Oland and
Gottland, Swedish Islands.
We at last saw Kronstadt the fore-harbor of Petersburg (now Pedrograd) and there
I made my first contact with the Russians. I had already been warned to place my
belongings under lock and key before entering the port, as the Russians would
take everything but "hot irons'and "millstones". The Russians are a hard looking
bunch and again I was disappointed with such people.
Everything in the harbor was built of wood, so as soon as ths ship moored, two
cossacks (soldiers) were sent out to do fire duty. About all these cossacks
wanted to do was to eat and sleep. It was the middle of May, but there was still
plenty of ice in the harbor. The weather was clear with a lot of sunshine, but
it was still cold. There also was quite a bit of sickness on shore. (cholera)
As we were unloading our cargo the next day, the skipper asked me to accompany
him to the market to get a supply of fresh vegetables and meat. After making the
purchases, he asked me if I could find my way back to the ship. I told him I
though I could, "good" said he,"then I will go to see the ships broker to
arrange for our return cargo and you can return to the ship". I thought it would
be a simple matter to find my way back, but I must have taken a wrong street,
for I soon realized that I was lost. Being unable to talk the Russian language,
I found myself in a bad situation. I asked a policeman standing on the corner,
in German language "bitte cannen sie mia sagen sher du schiffe liegen?" He
answered "nyet pojaemajo" Meaning "I don't understand you". I at last saw the
milkman from whom I had bought milk aboard our ship that same morning and he
could speak the German language and so could direct me the way back to the ship.
He knew I was lost and he came running after me. It was very late in the
afternoon when I finally got back. The meat that I carried was intended for the
noon meal. So you see I was not the only one that suffered from my unpleasant
experience. The skipper had been back some time already.
Never before had I seen as many prayer booths. People walking along, and when
coming to a statue would kneel right in the street and make crosses until they
were out of sight. Some would drop money in boxes provided for this purpose near
the altar. I could not help but notice that it was just the poorer class of
people that went through these elaborate cermonies. The richer class merely
lifted their hats as theY passed by.
The laboring class seemed to be a rather dirty and uneducated group. They seemed
to spend most of their time out of doors, wearing very heavy clothes, and never
bothering to clean them. When they got new clothes they did not bother to take
off the old, but would put the new on over the old. you can well imagine how,
through this neglect of their personal appearance, they would soon become
"lousey". Much of their spare time was spent in going through their apparel for
"cooties"
The men worked ten hours a day for the sum of 37 copek, (25 cents American
money). When at work, they had a man standing over them with a whip, watching so
they would not lag behind in their task. If they failed to do the required
amount of work, he would shout" rabbotam, rabottam" (work work) and strike them
on the back with his cruel looking whip. All they had to eat was course, sour
rye bread and salt herring. I was told that there are only two classes in
Russia, the rich and poor, no middle class.
After our cargo had been unloaded we went to a factory where fertilizer was
made. This was pressed into packs of 200 pounds. These would come down a chute
and into the ship. Once our ship was loaded, we set sail for Rotterdam. Reaching
there we mustered out and I was glad to be home again.
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My next trip was aboard the Nedl. Barkship "San Francisco". The Captain was H.
Leeuw. It was a very beautiful ship and was formerly an American ship before it
became stranded on the coast of Holland. After the winter storms had subsided
and with the approach of spring, some Holland men found it and after examining
the hull, decided to tow it in and repair and rig it up for use again.
Taking on a cargo of coke in Delfzyl, Netherlands we set sail for Oseelosund,
Sweden. There are many foundries there due to the abundance of iron, avery iron
too (about 80%). We secured the services of a pilot and tow boat and were towed
down the Eems River. Directly across from us we could see Emden, a town in
Germany. Soon we entered the North sea and our pilot was taken off our ship to a
pilot ship which lays in the North Sea almost continually for service of
incoming boats. We passed Kaltegat and then came into view of Elseneur, Denmark
and so into the Baltic Sea.
We passed Aland and Gathland and then proceeded toward the coast of Sweden. We
saw the light-house of Oseelosund. Giving the necessary signals with
flash-lights the pilot ship came to us and inquired as to our destination. After
telling them, they put out a life boat to bring us a pilot. I was at the wheel
when he came aboard. After greeting the captain and officers he looked at me and
said "kan du tale Swenska?" I answered yes" he then looked at the compass and
directed the course we had to take. As we entered the pier, anchor was dropped
and we waited for a tow boat. After being towed into the harbor (about 9A.M.)
they started to unload our cargo. In a few days we again were on our way,
further into the baltic to a place known as Hernosand, also in Sweden. Here we
took on a load of lumber which was to be taken back to the Netherlands.
We were treated well by the Swedish people and I enjoyed my short stay very
much. They are a tidy and deeply religous people. I had the pleasure of making
the acquaintance of a Swedish boy of my own age, Albert Strumland by name. He
helped me to gain a better knowledge of the swedish tongue, and by the time I
left I was able to both read and write the swedish language.
Alberts parents lived on a farm far back in the woods. They were pretty much
isolated from any contact with the rest of the world, espically during the
winter months. Their winters are very cold with plenty of snow to accompany
them. Their summers are very short. during the winter they had times when they
would see no one outside of their immediate family, for about three months.
Caring for cattle was all they had to do during these times of isolation. The
women made their own clothes with large spinning wheels. Coming back to Holland
I took my leave of the "San Francisco"
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Next I boarded a three mast schooner of which L. Veldman was the Captain. We
went to Germany for our cargo and from there to Helsingfors, (now Helsinki)
Finland. When we arrived here I heard the Finnish language for the first time.
Swedish and Russian is also spoken here. Finland formerly belonged to Russia,
then Sweden later secured its independence. Helsinfors was a nice town,
reminding you somewhat of a Swedish town, as most of the people spoke Swedish.
We took on a load of lumber and set sail for the town of Delfzyl, Netherlands.
Here I mustered off and spent a few weeks at home.
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After my brief vacation, I went aboard the schooner "Regnerus", J. Arends was
the Captain. The ship was laying in at Harburg, Germany a suburb of Hamburg.
Harburg is Germanys largest port. I reached here by train. The ship was in the
Wharf being repaired and the growth on the bottom of it being cleaned off. This
took about two weeks. We were towed to Hamburg, and took on a load of clay. This
clay is pressed together in squares and is used for making dishes and other
pottery. This load we brought to Russia. Here we reloaded with long logs to be
taken to Hamburg, Germany.
Hamburg is a very large city, the ships lie mostly in stream on so called
"duck-dalfs". When one wants to got to shore,a flag is raised. This is a signal
for a small passenger boat to come out and get you. You must know which flag to
raise as each dock has its own flag. If the A flag is put up, then a boat from
the A dock comes to get you, if the B flag is raised, a boat from the B dock
comes for you, etc. These boats ard always ready to serve you, wheather it is
night or day, Sunday or Holiday. The charge for bringing you to shore during the
daytime is 10 phenning (4 cents in American money). It is double this amount for
night service.
At night, lights are used for signaling in place of the flags. Three lights
above one another and a flashing of them as per instructions constitutes the
signal. The signal is answered at once except in the winter time when there is
ice to contend with. The charge also is much higher then, about four marks (1
dollar American money).
One night three sailors and myself decided to go ashore, so we signaled for the
Jollonfound, as they are called, and we were taken to shore. But it so happened
that we were taken to the wrong dock. there we stood , stranded, as there would
be no more boats coming to this dock that night. We were really in quite a
situation; our ship at least 600 yards away. How could we get back? To swim in
that cold water was out of the question, to remain there in the open didn't seem
so desireable either, as the temperature was near zero. We decided to get the
attention of someone on our ship, but everyone was asleep so our yells were of
no avail.
We walked to and fro to keep warm but soon tired of this. We did find an old
discarded fishing boat and after looking it over decided to take our chances
with it. Using old boards for oars we set out for our ship. The discarded
fishing boat leaked so badly that two of us were kept busy bailing out the
water. We approached the ship as close as we dared for we had to be careful lest
the ice and current would dash us against the large ship. We jumped for the
valreep and so on ship. One of the fellows missed the ladder and fell into the
water, but we soon rescued him. Giving the old fishing boat a shove, it went
down stream and that was the last we saw of it. We were cold and soaked to the
skin but then a sailor is used to that. After retiring we dreamed of the old
fishing boat. The next morning we had to explain how we got aboard and had to
tell a little white lie, as we didn't care to be punished for pushing the old
fishing boat down stream.
Leaving the mooring place,we went to the pier to load cargo for the Baltic. We
went to Sweden for a load of lumber which was to be taken to the Netherlands and
so home once more.
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My next trip was aboard the Adelaar, a three mast schooner, J. Middel was the
Captain. We took on cargo at Delfzyl, Netherlands and went through the North and
Baltic Seas to Copenhagen in Denmark. From here to Sweden and Russia and home
again.
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I made another trip with the "San Francisco with H Leeum as captain and what a
trip that was. With our cargo loaded we started for Finland. As we entered the
North Sea a terrific storm came up. We had left Friday afternoon and by Sunday
the storm had become hurricane. The waves were as high as an average house, the
crew stood by prepared for any emergency that might arise. In the afternoon I
had the watch below and with my oilskins and boots on I attempted to get a
little rest by lying in my bunk. The ship-boy (14 years old) was in the lower
bunk.
I was suddenly aroused by a ear splitting crash, it seemed as though the ship
was being split to pieces and was about to capsize. I jumped out of my bunk and
the water came up to my hips. The water rolled from one side to the other. I
grabbed for the boy as he was in the lower bunk covered with water. He was very
frightened, as this was his first trip on the sea. I did my best to retrieve as
many of our personal belongings as possible which was floating on the water. I
told the boy to stay below deck and I tried to go on deck to see what had
happened to our ship and men.
The boat lay on its side making it hard for me to reach the passage to the deck.
Finally, through a sliding door I managed it. I looked about and what a sight I
beheld. Our reelings and masts had washed overboard, our life boats gone and not
a soul in sight-nothing but the hulk left. On hands and knees I started to crawl
to the cabin. The wind was blowing so hard that it made it impossible to stand
up and even while crawling. I reached the cabin and fortunately found the rest
of the crew unhurt, they had taken refuge in the cabin.
They were looking at the map to determine our position, and we were trying to
decide what would be the wisest thing to do.The Captain said that they saw the
breaker coming and all went below.They had thought the boy and I were "goners"
The Captain said that we could drift for about 24 hours then we would strand on
the rocks of Jutland, so let us get the life boats ready. I told him this was
not necessary as the waves had taken our life boats. There was nothing left for
us to do but wait.
The mate asked about the condition of our ship, so we made an inspection tour
and found it leaking badly. Our only hope was to keep the vessel afloat was to
keep pumping the water out, and this we proceeded to do.
There were twelve men in the crew including the Captain, mate, second mate and
cook. We started to pump, two men at a time, changing off every fifteen minutes,
making one turn every ninety minutes. We continued pumping from Sunday evening
about 6:00 P.M. until Wednesday 8:00 A.M. We were fortunate in keeping the boat
afloat that long, and running aground on the coast of Jutland. The storm in all
its fury subsided. The wind died down and shifted to the opposite direction so
that instead of pushing us toward shore, it was slowly taking us sea-ward. as I
look back over this near calamity, I see the hand of the Almighty God was
certanly leading us and guiding us to safety. These waves, or breakers as they
are called by seamen, almost demolished our vessel. The wind pushes them from a
long way off, and when they roll toward shore, where the water is shallow, they
destroy everything in their path.
Our cargo had shifted over to one side so the ship could not be straightened up
again. On Wednesday morning, we sighted a steam boat. They saw our distress
signals and came close asking if we were sinking and if we wanted to leave the
vessel. The Captain told them that we did not want to leave but rather, be towed
in. The weather was good and we were in higher spirits, although we had not had
a single warm meal, coffee or sleep all this time. Our cooking utensils were
ruined, and our bed clothing was soaking wet. During this time we lived on hard
bread, dry meat and water.
The boat which came to our rescue was a German steamer bound for Hamburg,
Germany. We gladly accepted her aid. After the Captain had made the necessary
arrangements, we started our slow journey to the Eoms River,Netherlands. We had
to proceed slowly due to a defect in the sterring mechanism. Thursday morning we
reached the coast of Netherlands,secured a pilot and by noon had gotten another
boat to tow us into the harbor. Here we got a well earned meal and a much needed
rest. We sure felt better after we cleaned up and put on some dry clothes. the
cargo was taken off, and after a thorough inspection it was decided that the
vessel had to be rebuilt before the next voyage. In two months time it was ready
to again take to the sea. We set sail for Sweden and this time did not have any
trouble. We took a load of lumber back. It was now the last part of December and
winter had set in. The vessel was laid up for the winter and we went to our
homes to wait for spring.
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With the coming of spring I signed up as first mate with the two mast schooner
Hannanna Alberdina. Smit was the Captain. The skipper lived in Appingedam,
Netherlands, near to where we lived. The ship lay in Hamburg, Germany with a few
men aboard, and the Captain asked me to go there and get things in order as he
wished to spend a few more days home with his family.
I reached Hamburg on the train at midnight and had quite a time finding the ship
at that hour of the night. I located the ship at last. It was laying on the
duck-dalfs so I had to figure out some way of getting out to it. The men on
board were sleeping so it was useless to even try awakening them. I finally got
a boat from another ship to take me out there. After I got aboard, I had to
awaken the crew. The first one to greet me was a Frenchman. He asked what I
wanted and I informed him that I was to be their mate. I used my papers to
establish my identity. They helped me get my belongings on the ship and I turned
in for the night. The next morning I took over command and we started to get
things ready to go to sea. After a few days, I contacted the ships broker and
employed a tow boat to take us to our loading dock. Here a load of merchandise
was taken on for Inverness, Scotland. when the ship was about half loaded the
Captain came aboard with his wife and three of his children. We went down the
Elbe River and out into the North sea. In a few days we came to the coast of
England and thence to the harbor of Inverness. Here we unloaded and took on a
cargo for Stavanger, Norway. After this we took a load of sea grass to Sweden.
This grass is processed then used for various things such as iodine, etc. From
England we took a load of pressed clay through the Baltic Sea to Koningbergen.
By this time it was getting late in the fall with storms and winter weather
again at our door. The Captain tried to get a cargo to return home and lay the
ship until spring. The crew was anxious to get back home, as was the Captains
wife who was getting lonesome for the other children at home.
Not being able to get a cargo home, he was offered a high price if he would make
a trip further north up the Baltic. As first mate, I advised him not to make
this trip due to the bad weather that soon would be upon us. He still insisted
on going so I gave him a good excuse and he granted me permission to leave. I
left by train from Koningsbergen, going through Prussia and in three days I was
home with my family.
About ten days later we read in the paper that the ship was lost. It was never
heard from again, nor was any wreckage ever found of it. The Captain, his wife,
the children and crew went down with the ship. How glad I was that I had not
gone on that last trip with them, if I had you would not be reading this now.
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It was in the spring of 1903 when I started out aboard the German sailing vessel
"Viduia" for the west coast of South America. Part of the crew had been mustered
in Rotterdam and the rest in Hamburg, Germany. We were loaded with a load of
miscellaneous merchandise.
Crossing the Equator on the east coast of South America, we entered the strait
of Magellon and Cape Horn, the furtherest point south of the Americas. Here we
ran into a fierce storm. A raging north wind had to be bucked and in order to do
this we had to use the small sail. We counted at least fifteen large steam-ships
that were also battling the storm. Most of these were of the Kosmos line, a
German company.
At times we took on so much water it became necessary to turn our ship about,
with the wind, to save ourselves and the ship. This is called "halzen" or
sailing for top and tackle. After the storm had blown itself out, we checked our
position and found we were way off our course. We returned to the place from
where we had drifted and again proceeded. We stopped at Valparos, Chile and from
here to Falcahuano, Peru. While here we learned that our ship was not to return
to Europe. Freight rates were so high on the west coast that it was decided they
would gain financially by remaining perhaps, for two years and just sailing
between the local ports and the states.
When one signs up to sail with a ship it is understood that you must stay with
the ship until it returns to home port. On this particular trip we signed up
with the understanding that we would go just to the west coast, dispose our
cargo, reload and immediately return back home.
The companys position could easily be understood. As long as they could make big
money they would stay. What did it matter if the crew dissented? They knew that
according to International Law we could not leave. We had contracted with them
for a set wage and the fact that they would now make much more would not in the
least increase our wage. (I am taking time to explain this so that you may
somewhat realize our position.)
Five of us made up our minds to desert the ship and try to get a job on another
boat back to Europe. If they did not care to be loyal to us, neither would we be
true to them. I was sailmaker on the ship and shared a room with the ships
carpenter. We had priveleges not held by the rest of the crew. When in port we
could go to shore if we wanted to.
We were anchored about a quarter of a mile from shore and the officers had a
small boat hanging over the side which they used to go to and from shore. We
came to the conclusion that this would be just the thing to carry us to shore.
So, one dark night we made our plans. We placed our belongings in this boat and
at 2 A.M. planned to make a dash for shore. Someone must have become suspicious
because when we returned to make the break, the boat was pulled up out of the
water.
This did not keep us from making the attempt, however. The five of us got in and
I had the command to lower the boat. What a noise it made as it was being
lowered. It seemed a long time until we reached the water. we finally reached
the water. Since I was in the back part of the boat, I unhooked the tackle
there. I told those in the front to unloosen theirs but they were too late. The
Captain and first mate stood above us and threatened to shoot if they did. The
alarm was given and the crew all came on deck. They pulled the front part of our
boat out of the water and the order was given to rehook the stern tackle and
come aboard up the rope ladder. I refused to obey and they pulled the boat all
the way up. We were licked but secretly decided to try again at the next port.
The penalty for desertion is very severe. They can confiscate your wages and put
you in prison but in spite of this we decided to try again at any cost. Two
weeks later we reached the large harbor of Callao,Peru. This time we anchored
along side the shore so we could walk ashore, however, there were certain
obstacles to overcome. The port was protected by a high fence and a guard house
which had a guard on duty 24 hours a day. Without a written passport signed by
your officer you could not gain entrance to the town. Under the circumstances
the Captain did not think there was much chance of us trying to escape.
I contacted a man that operated a seamans boarding house and informed him of our
plans. He gave me four forged passports to be used in passing through the gate.
I was warned not to mention his name in case things went wrong. Later I found
out that the harbor police were in the same business as this man. They make
their money by trying to get seamen to desert the European vessels and then hire
them out to different ships. In this situation, it sure was true that "money
talks".
That night the others and myself took as many clothes as we could carry and
left. Again our well made plans went astray. someone must of seen us packing and
told the skipper. We just got a short distance from the ship when the 2nd mate
ran to tell the guard at the gate that we were attempting to get away and not to
let us through. He also notified the harbor police. He returned and started to
fight with us. however, he was on the losing end and got plenty. It was not much
trouble to evade the harbor police. We saw them at various times, searching for
us and at last to our relief they gave up. It was 2:30 in the morning when we
came out of our hiding place to talk things over.
We hid our clothing on other anchored ships. Mine was stowed aboard the English
ship "Eaton Hall" but unfortunately my companions hid theirs on a German ship of
the same company as the boat we deserted. The passports that we carried were of
no value as the guard knew of our escape. Since I was the only one who could
speak some Spanish, the other fellows wanted me to go to the guard alone and see
if I could persuade him to let us through. They kept out of sight as I went,
although they would be at my side in a moment if I got into and difficulties. As
I approached the guard the first thing he said was " you are one of the four
fellows who ran away from the German vessel. I told him that he was right. He
replied that he was sorry but could not let us pass through. I explained to him
that we had mustered this trip with the intention of returning home immediately
after this trip to the west coast, but now the company was to charter the ship
for at least two more years. I told him that we were married men and had already
been away from home eight months and were anxious to return home.
He said that if he let us through and it was found out he would lose his job. He
suggested we swim across the harbor to a town about a quarter mile distance.
This did not appeal to me as we would then be apt to be picked up by the harbor
police who guarded the harbor night and day. I continued to talk to him and
finally he started to give ground and asked me where my buddies were. I gave the
signal and they came thinking I was in trouble.
Upon our promise not to tell on him if we got caught but to say we swam across,
he passed us through the gate. Using much caution we entered the town which was
strange to all of us. It was 4:00 A.M. and the people were already going to
work. The town police eyed us suspiciously when we asked the location of the
boarding house to which we wanted to go. We met an old seaman and he offered to
take us there.
By daybreak we reached the hotel and after having lunch we were shown to our
rooms. We were told to remain in our rooms until the police gave up searching
for us. The following day someone was sent to get our clothing from the ships on
which we had hid them. He succeeded in getting mine but could not get those of
my companions. Theirs had been found and the crew on the ship refused to turn
them over.
My partners decided to slip out under the cover of darkness to go after their
belongings. I warned them of the danger of doing this and told if they did this
I might never see them again. In this I was correct as they were caught by the
harbor police, returned to their ship, and placed under arrest. When the
boarding master heard of their plight he was very angry because they went
without his consent. He warned me to be especially careful. After a few days I
became restless and wanted to see the town. Being alone I knew I would not be
recognized as readily and this gave me added courage.
Almost at once I was stopped by the police. I had the forged identification
papers with me and this caused them to let me go. As soon as I was out of sight
I did my best to put as much distance as possible between them and me.
According to International Law, when a ship leaves a port they have no claim on
anyone that has deserted that vessel. In a few days my ship left the harbor and
when they were three miles out I became a free man. I could now come and go as I
pleased. I visited the harbor looking for a ship bound for Europe.
I met two sailors who looked rather downcast here. I could see they were German
and addressed them in their native tongue. I learned that they too had deserted
their ship and did not know where to go. I offered to take them to my boarding
house and they gladly accepted. Their ship was still in the harbor so they had
to remain under cover for the time being. Since a seamans belongings are
expensive and valuable and hard to replace, they asked me if there was some way
for them to retrieve their clothes from off the ship. I told them perhaps we
could figure out some way.
About this time a ship entered the port of Callao to be loaded for England. We
were very fortunate in getting a job on this ship. The name of the boat was
"Luck Finlass", the Captain was "Evans". We set sail for Greenock, Scotland and
arrived The three of us got jobs on a local boat that sailed between harbors. We
did not intend to stay with them very long as our only aim was to get back to
Europe. We had to work hard but we were well paid and enjoyed the best of food.
We stayed on this boat for two months. After we were paid off, My German friend
and I took the train to England and from here we got a boat for Rotterdam. We
had encountered a bad storm and most of the passengers became seasick. Early the
next morning we arrived in Rotterdam and here I took leave of my friend. We
corresponded for a time but later I lost track of him.
So now finally I was headed home to my loved ones. I did not know ,just what to
expect as it was two years and four months since I had seen or heard from them.
I later learned they had all but given me up for dead. I found my dear wife and
children in good health and we were certainly happy to be reunited. My heart was
saddened, however, when I learned that my loving mother had departed from this
life to be with her Lord six months before. This was my longest voyage, and
surely a trip full of adventure.
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Next I made a voyage on a schooner that had just been built. The skipper had
sailed on lakes but had never had any experience on the ocean. He was well
educated but lacked the necessary experience. This time I was hired as first
mate. He had just been married a short time before we set sail. We loaded in
Delfzyl, Holland and went to England. From there we sailed to Stavaneger,
Norway, then on to Gevle, Sweden and finally back to the Netherlands with a load
of lumber.
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After 15 years of sailing I had my first experience with a steamboat. This was a
weekly boat named Perth, an English ship. We sailed between Delfzyl, Holland and
Grange Mouth, Scotland. We carried food supplies between the harbors mentioned,
such as potatoes, butter, eggs, meat etc. I did not remain with this vessel long
as it was impossible to sail in the winter months due to ice in the Eems River
and also in the harbors.
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On the boat named Mars,(Co. Kkoningklyke Maatschappy) I sailed as second mate.
We went to Barcelona, Spain and brought back a load of oranges which we picked
up in Valancia. On one of our trips we had a Belgian stow-away. We usually
stopped at Gibralter for coal. The fort is always well guarded by English
soldiers, but since we were at peace and since we were sailors we were permitted
the opportunity of inspecting the fort. After making several trips I left this
ship and looked for something new.
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My next job was on a weekly holland ship named Maarstroom, sailing between
Amsterdam and London, England We would leave Amsterdam every tuesday night
regardless of the weather conditions. At times we went out into storms that even
the large American boats would not attempt. You could not even get a pilot boat
to take you out in such weather and they are well constructed and considered
capeable of bucking the strongest of storms. But when a storm sweeps for days
from the northwest, even they are compelled to stay inside. We were able to
secure a pilot and took him right along with us to England.
We also carried passengers. Most of them were Jewish businessmen who traveled
between London and Holland. We used to get quite a kick out of some of them.
When they came aboard they be in a very jovial mood but after getting out from
shore they soon became extremely seasick. At a time like this they would not
care wheather they lived or died and would give the sailors their liquor and
cigars, etc.
Our dock was near the London bridge. It is said that 70,000 people pass over
this bridge every morning before 9:00 A.M. basides those who ride in busses and
street cars. London has the appearance of being a cold spooky city and is quite
misty most of the time. One thing that did strike me was the two extremes
represented, the very rich and the real "down and outers". The rich would drive
past in their mile long limousines and the poor could be seen delving through
garbage cans for a crust of bread to keep body and soul together.
There are thousands of unfortunate people there who are in such circumstances
without a home and using the park benches for beds. There is little wonder that
there so many uprisings and strikes in a world in which conditions exist.
At this time London was the largest tobacco market in the world. Ships from all
over the world would come here to barter, and London owes its growth to this
fact.
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On the large ship Celbes, Maatschappy Netherlands, I made my next voyage. This
ship is named after one of the Dutch Indies Islands. From Amsterdam we sailed to
Marseile, France. Here we took on cargo and sailed to Geneva. From Italy we went
through the Mediterranean Sea stopped at Port Said, the entrance of the Suez
Canal, to refill our coal bunkers. The men that loaded the coal were low class
Arabians and Egyptians. As we passed through the canal a powerful search light
was focused aboard the ship and we were also given a pilot.
The canal is not very wide and sand-suckers are in operation continuously to
keep it open for ships. It takes about 20 hours to go from Port Said to Suez. It
took 13 days to reach Suez from Amsterdam. From here we went on to Sumatra,
Dutch Indes which took 19 days in all. In Sambang we took on more fuel and also
engaged a man to take charge of loading our ship. He had 120 coolie employees to
do the actual loading. They were colored and spoke Saendanese and Malay. They
took along their own cook as well as food which consisted of about 50 sacks of
rice or maase as they calll it. I had to learn a litte of their language as I
had to take charge of 25 of them for the front hatches.
We spent a total of seven weeks in the Indes. We stopped at Java, Sumatra,
Borneo Celebes and other islands unloading and taking on cargo. Sabang was our
last stop before leaving the Indies. Here we set the coolies ashore and took on
more fuel. The weather was very warm here with plenty of mosquitoes especially
in Tand Jong Prick, which is the foreharbor of Batavia. The white people are
found mostly in Buitenhorg. There are also many Chinese and Japanese in the
Indies, who as a rule are engaged in running some form of business.
On some of our trips we carried pilgrims who were traveling to Mekka, the Holy
Land to visit the grave of Mohammed. We left them off at Djedja which is located
on the Red Sea and from here they traveled in caravans to the Holy Land. some of
these would be accompanied with much misfortune for them. I recall one trip on
which the Cholera broke out among them. We had a doctor aboard and he did the
best he could to check it. He had several obstacles to overcome because they are
very reluctant about accepting aid from the "White Devils", as they call those
of the white race. The sick ones would try to hide themselves and this makes it
especially hard to keep the disease from spreading. Sixteen of them died on this
one trip. We had to bury them in the ocean. The body was rolled in canvas and
weighted down with iron, the ship comes to a stop, the flag is lowered to half-
mast and then the corpse is lowered into the sea. The relatives and friends have
services at this time which usally consists of prayer and a sermon.
There is a serious race hatred between these people and the "White devils". As I
pen these lines there is a war raging there. I am not a prophet but I am afraid
that the white race will have a tough time convincing them that this war is for
their welfare. I hold that the only way of winning their true confidence is to
bring them the Gospel of Christ, and to show thereby that we are sincerely
interested in their welfare. For as we read in the Scripture in Christ there is
no racial distinction, neither male or female, but all are one in him.
I made several trips to the Indies and had various experiences, but if I were to
relate all of these, I would be doing just what I have said I was not trying to
do, namely, write a book.
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I was next employed as 2nd mate by Smit Co., Rotterdam, who are well known
throudgout the world. They have many tow-boats. the home port of the larger ones
is Maasluis, the smaller ones operate in around Rotterdam. They are named for
the different seas, such as the North Sea, the Louwer Sea, etc. I was stationed
on the Louwer Sea. We sailed to the English Channel to remain there for
emergency duty.
Large ships coming in from America and other countries would rather pay the
towing charge and reach their destination in safety than to chance it in the
narrow waters with their large vessels. We were also on the look out for
stranded ships, and the Captain would not hesitate to take advantage of such a
situation. He realized that they were at our mercy. After contacting a ship that
was in need a stiff price would be set to tow them in. It was almost like a
pirates life.
In calm weather we would have nothing to do. We would then spend our time by
fishing near Wight, a small island off the coast of England. From here we could
see the beacon lights of Dover and Calais.
We once towed a huge dry-dock from Plymouth, England to Port Said, Suez Canal.
One tow-boat was unable to move this dock alone, so we were aided by our sister
ship,"The black Sea". There were also a crew aboard the dry-dock. This dock was
said to have cost a million dollars to build. The firm that built these docks
always had English tow-boats to move them. This time however, The English ran
into some misfortune and could not get insurance on the docks while they were
transporting them, so the job fell to us.
At the time we were towing this dock, Russia was at war with Japan and as we
neared Gibraltar a Russian warship played their searchlight on us and circled
around us a few times. We hoisted our flag and they permitted us to pass.
We halted at Malta to refill our bunders. It would cost alot to bring the dock
inside the break-water so one ship stayed outside with the dock while the other
refueled. We reached Port Said and anchored the dry-dock. After a few days we
set sail for Maasluis, leaving our sister ship to take the crew of the dry-dock
back to Rotterdam. Maasluis is a port where much herring fishing is done.
Claardinger and Schiedam are also noted for this.
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And so I bring to a close this story of my travels throughout the world. I have
visited many countries: the East and the West Coasts of both North and South
America, every country in Europe and many other places. After giving up the
seamans life, I operated a grocery store and saloon in the Netherlands. After
staying here for a time I left the Fatherland and came to America, and settled
in Grang Rapids, Michigan.
While here I had the greatest of all of my experiences, I found lasting peace
with God. Through his Grace I have come to see that in this world all things are
of a temporal nature and must pass away, but those who are ingrafted into Christ
Jesus by a true and living faith, shall never pass away but shall live with and
through Him forever and ever. Do you too have this Pease dear reader? If not, I
recommend that you flee with all your sins and burdens to this same Jesus who
has given me the joy and pease that passeth all understanding".