Miguel Forjan on summit day (Feb 3, 2002):  Mt Whitney winter ascent (14,494')

Mt. Whitney, California, USA (14,494 ft / 4418 m)

April 2004: Spring ascent via the Mountaineer's Route

Whitney Portal elevation: 8,365 feet
Summit elevation: 14,494 feet
Roundtrip distance: 8.5 miles (Portal-Summit-Portal via MR)

Miguel Forjan on summit day (Feb 3, 2002): Mt Whitney winter ascent

Trip date: April 2-4, 2004 (Friday-Sunday: 3 days). Alpine style.
Climbers:



Thu (Day 0): Drive to Lone Pine, CA and spend the night at the Trails Motel or at the Lone Pine free campground.

Fri (Day 1): Get breakfast at the High Sierra Cafe at 7:00am. Then, drive to the Whitney Portal trailhead getting there at approx 9:00am. Whitney Portal Road is not plowed in the winter. In years past, the road closure sign is around the 6600' level. Road conditions could be tricky after the road closure sign. We may need snowshoes from the start. The way from Whitney Portal trailhead (8,365 ft) will probably be all snow, with some steep snowshoeing terrain through pines and willows and around exposed granite slabs (Ebersbacher ledges). The day will be a long one. Our camp should be between Upper Boy Scout Lake and Iceberg Lake, around 12,000 ft.

Sat (Day 2): Summit day. Ascend the Mountaineer's gully. The gully may be firm snow or knee-deep step kicking, depending on conditions. After the notch, we then climb the 1st short gully to the left (north facing) to gain the summit plateau. Descent: we downclimb via the same upper gully and then the main Mountaineer's gully to our camp.

Sun (Day 3): Break camp, pack up and return to our car(s) by mid-afternoon. End of trip.


Equipment list:
GROUP GEAR: (team = 3 climbers)
----------
  __ 2 two-man tents
  __ 2 snow shovels
  __ 3 22 fl oz fuel bottles (66 fl. oz:  3 people for 3 days)
  __ 2 Whisperlite white-gas stoves 
  __ 2 large pots
  __ 2 lighters (matches as backup)
  __ Topo Map
  __ Compass
  __ Altimeter
  __ Cell phone
  __ Repair kit (e.g. duct tape, stove kit, Thermarest kit, etc)
 
INDIVIDUAL GEAR:
---------------

 Climbing equipment:
  __ Helmet
  __ Ice axe (60-75cm)
  __ Crampons 
  __ Adjustable ski poles 

 Feet:
  __ 2 pairs liner socks
  __ 2 pairs heavier synthetic socks (e.g. Thorlos Mt Climbing)
  __ Plastic double boots 
  __ Down/synthetic booties (optional)
  __ Gaiters
  __ Snowshoes

 Lower Body:
  __ 1 long medium weight underwear bottom (e.g. Patagonia Capilene)
  __ 1 long expedition weight Capilene underwear bottom
  __ Fleece climbing pants with full-side zippers (optional)
  __ Gore-tex shell pants with full-size zippers

 Upper Body:
  __ 1 medium weight long underwear top (e.g. Patagonia Capilene) 
  __ Expedition weight Capilene top
  __ Midweight fleece jacket (Polartec 200)  
  __ Heavyweight pile jacket (Polartec 300)  
  __ Gore-tex shell jacket with hood
  __ Down Parka with insulated hood (NICE TO HAVE!!!)
  
  Hands:
  __ 1 pair liner polypropylene gloves
  __ 1 pair medium weight fleece gloves 
  __ 1 pair Gore-Tex shell gloves or 1 pair overmittens with 
     wrist leash (e.g. OR Pro Modular mittens) 

  Head:
  __ Fleece hat 
  __ Lightweight Balaclava 
  __ Sun hat & Bandanna
  __ Glacier glasses
  __ Headlamp w/ extra batteries and bulb 
 

  Sleeping gear: 
  __ 1 down/synthetic sleeping bag (rated 0F)
  __ 3/4 or full length Thermarest pad  
  __ 1 full length closed cell foam pad (e.g. Ridgerest)

  Pack: 
  __ Internal frame pack (5,000+ cubic inches) 
  __ Day pack for summit day (optional)
  
  Eating utensils: 
  __ Spoon 
  __ Plastic bowl
  __ Insulated mug with lid 

  Personals:
  __ First-aid kit (Ibuprofen/Aspirin, Mole skin, bandaids, gauze, tape, etc)
  __ Pocket knife
  __ 2 one quart Nalgene water bottles with insulated covers (optional) 
  __ Pee bottle (optional)
  __ Sunblock (SPF 40+)
  __ Lip balm (SPF 30) 
  __ Ear plugs (optional)
  __ 1-2 large plastic trash bags 
  __ Toothbrush, toothpaste
  __ Toilet paper
  __ Camera/film
  __ Hand/toe chemical warmers (optional)

Return to my upcoming climbs page.
Return to my mountaineering page.

Last update: March 26, 2004
By Miguel Forjan
Email: [email protected]


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