Mount Whitney, California, USA (14,494 ft / 4418 m): via the East Face

August 21, 2005

Mt. Whitney (14,494')

Brief report:

Climbed the East Face with Murray Zichlinsky with Mark Ingram and Steve Sauter following as a 2nd party of 2. We had a fantastic weather day in the Sierra (no clouds, cobalt blue sky, light breeze...nice!). Took 6 hours to summit because we're stuck behind a party of 3 (dad and his 2 sons) at the 1st tower traverse pitch. Murray and I passed the "dad" team at the washboards as we unroped there. Then, we waited for Mark & Steve to come up to the Giant Alcove. Murray led the Fresh Air Traverse while I led the last short (20 feet) offwidtch/left chimney pitch at the end of the Grand Staircase. Murray and I actually belayed 5 pitches: pitch 1 was the tower traverse; pitch 2 (less than 20') was to get up to the Giant Alcove; pitch 3 was the Fresh Air Traverse; pitch 4 was the short 5.5 chimney after the Fresh Air Traverse; pitch 5 (~ 20') was the short 5.7 offwidth/left chimney at the end of the Grand Staircase. With careful routefounding, you can keep the rest at class3/4 to the summit. I reached the summit at 2:25pm. Murray arrived some 20 minutes later. Then, after waiting 1 hour at the summit for Mark & Steve, I told Murray I couldn't wait any longer as I had to descend to the Portal that day. Left the summit at 3:30pm, down the Mountaineers Route and back at Iceberg Lake at 4:40pm. Packed up and down at the Portal at 7:38pm.

Additional info about climbing Mount Whitney can be found here.


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Last update: August 22, 2005
By Miguel Forjan
Email: [email protected]
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