North Peak, California, USA (12,242 ft / 3731 m): via the right NE Couloir

September 5, 2005

North Peak (12,242')

Brief report:

Climbed with awagher. We took my 60m rope, 6 ice crews, set of nuts and various slings and cordolettes. Conditions (as of 9/5/05) were as follows: Pitch 1 was all easy neve. Then, the remaining 3 pitches were all surprisingly hard water ice. The last 40 feet (before you top out) on pitch 4 was neve again. The 'shrund this year is lower down on the left side of the couloir. It hasn't opened up across yet. Get on the couloir on the right side. Took us about 5 hours to climb the 4 pitches. Because we had a late start (didn't get on the couloir 'til after 10am) and lack of sleep, we decided to skip the summit. Now, the left couloir of North Peak looked like it was all neve, however, 2/3 of the way up it has a 60 foot section of rock all across (must climb rock 60 feet and then get on neve again).

Additional info about climbing North Peak can be found here.


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Last update: September 14, 2005
By Miguel Forjan
Email: [email protected]
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