Mt. Morrison, California, USA (12,268 ft / 3739 m): via East Slope

April 29, 2006

Mt. Morrison (12,268')

Brief report:

Climbed with ming21 (Mark). Worst snow climb ever for me. Got only an hour of sleep at the Convict Lake trailhead because fishermen were driving all night long since 2:30am (it was the first day of opening season....aghhh). Also, came in from LA with a sore throat and small cold. Got up anyway and started walking by 6:11am. Reached the base of the East Slope climb by 8:30am or so. Lots and lots of snow. Rested for about half hour and started up. Had to put snowshoes. After reaching the 10,900-foot saddle from the East Variation (hanging valley), I encountered the "worst" snow that I've climbed so far on: totally a 7/11 slurpy, unconsolidated, very wet snow, total soup. Mark and I were sinking to our waists. Took a long time just to travel a few hundred feet. Extremely warm (est. around 80 degrees F). We tried climbing some loose rock to avoid the unconsolidated and very warm snow soup. We did a spicy traverse between 11,600' and 11,700'. At 11,700 feet (just before noon), we stopped to look at 3 naturally-trigger wet avalanches happening in front of our eyes on the final slope to the summit. That's when we said enough and got that hell out of there! If we got caught in one of those cement slides, it would the last of us. I think the extremely hot day caused many slides in the Sierra. Got back to Convict Lake by 2:40pm. Now I have to go back and finish Morrison at some other time.

Additional info about climbing Mount Morrison can be found here.


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Last update: April 30, 2006
By Miguel Forjan
Email: [email protected]
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