Brief report:
Day hiked Middle Pal in 16 hours roundtrip with mdostby (Mike). Started from Glacier Lodge trailhead parking lot at 4:00am.
We decided to take Secor's chute. To get up to the chute from a distance I saw a small 20 foot dihedral and thought it was class 4. I was wrong. It was more like 5.2 and with exposure. I took a risk free soloing this; however, when I was in it I knew I couldn't downclimbing it and now had to commit to get up it. After clearing this, the rest of the climb was very fun class 3 and sustained all the way to the summit. Reached the summit at 1:10pm. We left the summit at 1:50pm after dark thunderstorm clouds quickly developed. Luckly we got rained on right by the ledge and glacier's 'schrund/moat---wouldn't want to downclimb the class 3 rock wet. Next crux was crossing the creek now in the evening with tons of water (this creek grew more than 1 foot in depth from when we crossed it in the morning 'til we crossed it again in the evening). Mike got wet as he crossed with his tennis shoes on. I bushwacked and monkey-climbed the willows/trees there and only got my left foot partially wet. We got back to the trailhead a few minutes past 8:00pm, and then drove to the Pizza Factory in Bishop to pig out. A long day, indeed.
Additional info about climbing Middle Palisade can be found here.