North and South Manitou Islands
 
Day 1  (Sunday 7/16/00)
I first backpacked on South Manitou island in 1987, travelling to the island  via the passenger ferry from Leland Michigan.   Over the years, I have experienced ferry crossings where the waves in the Manitou Passage seemed higher than the upper ferry deck.     Many passengers on the tossing ship became seasick as the waves crashed over the deck and into the boat`s cabin.     I gained a healthy respect for the Manitou Passage, but I also gained a fascination with paddling in these shipwreck strewn waters.
 
Three years ago, I built a cedar strip sea kayak in my basement.     One snowy evening in January,  I loosely placed the finished deck on the finished hull.    Then,  sitting in the cockpit of the partially built boat, I thought of my goal of one day  paddling the 8.5 mile crossing to the South Manitou island from Glen Haven, MI.     I imagined  what the bow would look like slicing through the waves.
 
Last July,   I realized my goal when Paul and I paddled to South Manitou Island for a week long trip.     The 10 knot  Northwest wind pushed the waves to about 3 feet.     I watched the bow slice through each wave as the island drew neared.   The favorable conditions allowed us to make the crossing in 2hrs and 15 minutes.     I savored the moment as my bow finally touched the sandy island beach.   I especially savored the sight of  Paul falling into the water as he tried to climb from his expedition-small cockpit.     Paul had also built a cedar strip kayak.      We enjoyed answering the usual questions from backpackers on the island:  "Did you paddle all the way from the mainland?"   and    "Did you make those boats?"
 
In Lake Michigan, South Manitou island is part of  the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore.      Low impact backcountry camping is required on the wilderness island.    At the park headquarters in Empire Michigan, we voluntarily filled out a trip itinerary showing our intended destination to South Manitou Island and our expected time of arrival.     Before we left the park office, the Ranger had already called the island and told them to expect us.    Then, when we reached the island,  we checked in at the island Ranger Station to confirm our arrival.     Paul and  I were  grateful for the added measure of safety that the park service went out of their way to offer.      With the Ranger`s permission, we parked our vehicle at the Cannery (vintage boat museum) in Glen Haven.      This offered an ideal sandy beach launch site.
The crown jewel of the South  island is an abandoned lighthouse.     On the day of our crossing, the tall,  white tower  was visible from the mainland.      This made navigation easy.     We didn`t need to use the navigational charts or compass headings that we had calculated over the winter, but we had them on our decks just in case.    
 
On the island, Paul and I set up camp near the bay on the East side.      After cooking a quick dinner, we hiked to the dunes on the West side of the island to watch the sunset.      After a 2 � hour hike, we reached the top of a 200ft dune overlooking lake Michigan.    A gentle breeze blew up the face of the dunes as we watched  the sun slowly disappear  into the lake.     In the dark, the hike down the dune was a delicate one.      The narrow trail meandered through flourishing poison ivy on either side.     Using our flashlights, we carefully negotiated our way back into the woods for a moonlit  hike back to camp.     We stopped in route to listen to an owl.
 
 
Click here for Day 2
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