Alternatives to Chemical
Treatments
The following alternatives
( suggested by Enviro-Guard)
can be used to create a lush green lawn. All without the use of chemical
pesticides. For the sake of yourself, your family, your pets, and your
neighbors, these tips are worth at least a try.
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Mowing: Let it grow! Mowing
correctly can kill weeds, save water, cure diseases and provide fertilizer.
For Kentucky Bluegrass in northern climates, leave grass at 2 1/2" tall
during the spring and until summer droughts and hot weather arrive. Then
reduce the frequency of mowing and let grass grow to 3" before cutting.
In late summer as temperatures drop and rainfall increases, go back to
2 1/2" and mow more frequently during this growth spurt. A final mowing
of the season could be 1 1/2". Close frequent cutting stresses grass, plants,
and exposes weed seedlings to the life-giving sun.
-
Fertilizer: Chemical fertilizers
are harmful to your lawn. Instead, use grass clippings, compost, and manure
to return needed bacteria and enzymes to the soil. Other organic fertilization
options include fish emulsion, bloodmeal, cottonseed meal, and clover or
other nitrogen fixing plants. All of these organic fertilizers are readily
available.
-
Plant Earthworms: Earthworms
eat the cut grass, aerate the soil and provide castings for free fertilizer.
-
Water: Water during dry
periods, allow your lawn to enter a natural dormancy. Or, plant tall fescue,
which is adapted to drought conditions and does not require summer irrigation.
-
Pesticides: Healthy lawns
do not have insect problems. Pesticides can harm gardens, trees, shrubs,
your kids, your pets, birds and other wildlife, as well as yourself. In
addition, weed killers breed resistant weeds. Pesticides also kill worms
and beneficial insects. Water during daylight hours because the more often
grass is wet, and longer it stays wet, the greater the chance for disease.
Liquid seaweed acts as a fungal inhibitor, dandelions can be pulled out
by hand, and crabgrass has shown to be eliminated in one year through high
mowing and heavy organic fertilization.
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Dandelions: Cut out by
hand at the root, several inches below ground. If you can learn to tolerate
them, they only look "bad" twice a year, and a quick mow fixes that.
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Fungus: This is a problem
only in wet, thatchy, over-fertilized lawns. Drain, dry-out, de-thatch,
and re-add soil bacteria with compost or manure.
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Aerate: Compacted soil
promotes weeds. Aerate twice a year and add a soil loosener like compost.
Remember, earth worms aerate naturally.
-
Species: Choose the proper
grass to plant for your area. Pick varities that resist drought, disease,
need little mowing or fertilizer, choke out weeds, and are suited to foot
traffic. Switch to groundcovers in hard to maintain areas.
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Fire Ants: Instead of
using chemicals to eliminate fire ants, try a mixture of 1 gallon of orange
or grapefruit juice, 2 gallons of water, and a dash of dish soap. Pour
this mixture into the mound. This works best on a sunny but cool day and
after rain when the ground is still moist.
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