droflim track - doing the milford backwards
Pam Quin - wife of Russ Quin my Rotary host counsellor - invited me to go tramping on the Milford Track with her and some of her friends. The
Milford Track is the best-known track in New Zealand, and considered to be the finest walk in the world. It's a 53km track through temperate rainforest in Fiordland National Park in the southwest part of the South Island. Because of its popularity (more than 10,000 people walk the track each year) and a fragile ecosystem, the Milford Track is highly regulated: you can only walk the track in one direction, must stay at specific huts, and must do the tramp in four days and three nights. After a day of tramping in the rain, you wouldn't *want* to set up a tent somewhere - not only is there nowhere dry to pitch your tent, but you might wake up in a river! After a few tramps in Fiordland, I've come to the conclusion that only in New Zealand can tramping be classified as a water sport. The track officially closes in mid to late April - although the huts are not as well maintained it is still possible to walk the Milford Track - in fact hut fees are 75% lower, there are fewer people on the track and in huts, and you can walk the track in either direction. Since tramping in the height of winter is risky because of avalanches, the beginning of May was an ideal time to do the Milford Track.Wednesday, May 1
Met up with seven of the eleven people I'd be tramping with - Pam, Kerry, Kate, Richard, Val, Chris, and Marilyn. Left Dunedin in Kate's truck with Richard and Val and headed towards Te Anau. Along the way I asked why some of the sheep had funny looking blue dots on their backsides. Ahem. Apparently during mating season farmers attach vests to the rams (male sheep). These vests have dye markers on the tummy part, so when the ram mounts a ewe (female sheep), she gets marked with a big blue dot on her backside. This way farmers can tell which ewes have been "serviced" and make sure the rams get spread around. Oh. Stopped at The Moth for treats. Met the other four people - Cliff, Louvain, Mary, and Carol. Quite a motley crew - aged 16 to 75, two men and ten women, five with connections to Rotary, some experienced trampers and some novices, some quiet and some quite loud. Arrive in Te Anau and moved into the YHA hostel. Went to The Moose for tea (dinner in Canada), then back to the hostel for a good night's sleep (for some of us anyway...).
Thursday, May 2
Had our last real shower in civilisation. Tex (short for Texas) drove us from Te Anau to Milford in his minivan and gave us barley sugar treats. Drove through the Homer Tunnel. Saw my first real live kea (mountain parrot) - cheeky buggers that do lots of damage by pecking things like the rubber around your automobile windscreen. Arrived at Milford and waited for the boat guy to show up. Could just barely make out Mitre Peak through the rain.
Mitre Peak in Milford Sound
(photo from http://www.milfordtrack.co.nz/Milford/gallery.asp)
Hopped in a dingy and crossed the end of Milford Sound over to Sandfly Point at the top of Lake Ada. Started on Stage 4 of the Milford Track - Sandfly Point to Dumpling Hut (18km). An easy walk in the rain through temperate rainforest. We had so much rain this past week that waterfalls were just gushing down the mountains.
Waterfalls on the Milford Track
When God created Fiordland, he used so much green that it dripped off the trees and spilled all over the forest floor - tall trees with moss covering the trunks and hanging off the branches, surrounded by verdant green brush and moss-covered rocks.
Kerry by one of many rivers on the Milford Track
Met a few people going the other way - one guy carrying an umbrella...? Passed Doughboy Shelter, a hut for guided walkers. If you're willing to pay NZ$1,600 or so you can take a guided walk, meaning that you don't carry any of your food or sleeping gear, and get to stay in flash huts with ensuite bathrooms. Being a keen tramper (and neither willing nor able to shell out that much cash), I was an independent / freedom walker. Stopped for lunch at an open shelter just before reaching Giant Gate Falls. Later stopped for photos at Mackay Falls and peeked up Bell Rock. Crossed Mackay Creek, Arthur River, and many other bits of water on swing bridges. Kerry, Richard, and I rushed ahead to reserve some bunks at Dumpling Hut. The Department of Conservation (DOC) warden came by and warned us about the weather forecast for strong winds the following day - told us to beware of falling trees.....hhmmm. Got really excited because I thought I spotted a kiwi (rare bird)...but it was just a weka (more common bird).
Friday, May 3
Started on Stage 3 of the Milford Track - Dumpling Hut to Mintaro Hut (14km). A bit harder tramp than the previous day. From Quintin Hut (flash hut for guided walkers) to Mackinnon Pass the track goes up 870m over 7km. Considered going up to Sutherland Falls but decided against it. Could just barely make out part of the Falls from the track.
Sutherland Falls
(photo from http://www.milfordtrack.co.nz/Milford/gallery.asp)
Walked up some stairs along a rushing river, through a gorge, and up along the side of a ridge. Then up to Mackinnon Pass at 1073m with a memorial to Quintin Mackinnon who along with Ernest Mitchell discovered the pass in 1888. Unfortunately no view across the valley because of rain, fog, and mist. Saw tarns - small stagnant lakes on top of the mountains. Stopped for lunch at Mackinnon Pass Shelter - we were so hot that our clothing steamed in the hut by virtue of body heat alone (huts are unheated).
Me with the Memorial to Quintin Mackinnon on Mackinnon Pass
The Memorial in Sunny Weather
(photo from http://www.milfordtrack.co.nz/Milford/gallery.asp)
Mackinnon Pass
(photo from http://www.milfordtrack.co.nz/Milford/gallery.asp)
Mackinnon Pass
(photo from http://www.milfordtrack.co.nz/Milford/gallery.asp)
Hiked up to the highest point of the pass at 1154m, then down to Mintaro Hut. After changing and cooking something to eat, played a few games...bum game anyone?
Mintaro Hut with mountains in background
Kate, Kerry, Chris, Pam, and Richard in Mintaro Hut - photo is steamy because of the moisture from our drying clothes
Saturday, May 4
Started on Stage 2 of the Milford Track - Mintaro Hut to Clinton Forks Hut. An easy walk in the rain along the Clinton River.
Kerry in the Clinton River Valley
Met people going the other way (like a guy running the track in his underwear). Passed St Quintin Falls, and then the posh Pompolona Hut for guided walkers. Stopped at Bus Stop Shelter and saw another kea. Also saw a robin and some tomtits, and heard tuis and bellbirds along the track.
Kea at Bus Stop Shelter
Lunch at Hirere Shelter with some Brits - sang them the Rule Britannia song althhough I don't think they appreciated the humour. Dead trees emerging from lakes because of the landslip in 1982. Arrived at Clinton Forks Hut with more than enough bunks for all.
Cliff and Chris on the final approach to Clinton Forks Hut
Spent the night playing more games..."potato potato, carrot carrot"...Serenaded two American lads who'd been tramping for about 10 hours (Dumpling Hut to Clinton Hut) with the Rule Britannia song.
Sunday, May 5
Sang Happy Birthday to Louvain - 63 years old! Started on Stage 1 of thhe Milford Track - Clinton Forks Hut to Glade Wharf. Easy walk in rain through beech forest. Once again, serenaded our fellow trampers crossing the swing bridge across the Clinton River with Rule Britannia - this time including actions! Stopped to talk to the manager of Glade House (official start of the Milford Track), another hut for guided walkers. Finally arrived at Glade Wharf - American lads arrived a bit later. Sailed along Lake Te Anau from Glade Wharf to Te Anau Downs on the Manuska with Murray the captain - builder of the Manuska AND the hut on top of Mackinnon Pass. Passed a memorial to Quintin Mackinnon who drowned in Lake Te Anau. Met American lads again trying to hitch a ride to Milford. Caught the minivan to Te Anau. Changed at the YHA and had lunch at a nearby cafe. Drove Te Anau to Dunedin. Passed through Gore on the way and learned what bogans were - young kids living in the boonies who wear lots of black and spend their time riding up and down the main drag in low cars. Then home for showers and laundry.
Ode to Rain
(from some guy in the Otago University Tramping Club)
Love Christine
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