journey to the subantarctic

After tramping in the Kaikouras, Melanie asked me whether I'd like to visit the Snares Islands... for free. Let me explain. The Snares are in the subantarctic region, which means that they lie somewhere between New Zealand and the Antarctic Circle. Few people will ever have the opportunity to see them. The boat ride there provides the opportunity to see lots of seabirds, and the Snares themselves have an abundance of marine and terrestrial wildlife, all protected. Melanie recently got a permit to spend two months there doing her PhD research. She and her research team chartered a boat for a fixed price, so any additional passengers could come along free of charge, by invitation only. So it was that Adrian, Neil, and I were offered the chance of a lifetime to see the Snares Islands. We weren't allowed to step off the boat, but could cruise along the shoreline and snap photos of the coastal wildlife...

Adrian, Neil, and I were on standby waiting for THE CALL to determine whether the weather was OK for the trip. Snow down to sea level, 3.5m swells, and generally bad weather meant that the trip was cancelled during this time. Melanie getting a bit fretful.

Get THE CALL. Simon got home around 5pm and rang to pass on a message that Melanie was leaving Dunedin at 3pm for the Snares. I spent the next hour madly trying to reach Adrian, Neil, Melanie, and Maureen. Finally Neil rang me back and confirmed Melanie's plans, although he had to work and unfortunately couldn't make it down. Rang around to find a bus or rental car to get myself to Invercargill - an insane feat on a Sunday night. Finally found a bus, the Knight Rider leaving Dunedin at 11:45pm. Tried to get myself sorted, and got one of the neighbours to feed the cat for two days. Finally... headed south.

Arrived in Invercargill at 3am. Dropped off at the Southern Comfort Backpackers and met Dave Houston from DoC, Thomas from Oamaru via Germany, Melanie, and Adrian.

Melanie and Adrian on board the Foveaux Express

Asked Dave what he was studying in the Snares; he replied Germans in the Wild (Melanie is also from Germany). Loaded up their van with stuff they'd stored at the DoC office. Then loaded up the Southern Express ferry at in Bluff on the tip of the South Island. Left the wharf around 6am with Friday, Jason, and Bobby as crew. On the way saw giant petrels, diving petrels (they have evolved a compromise between flying and diving; they dive for food, but are smaller than penguins and therefore have no defence against predators; this means they need to fly; but the wing design they need for flying is different from that for flying, so they're relatively awkward flyers), Bullers albatrosses, Royal albatrosses, cape pigeons, and prions. Had 2-3m rolling swells and great weather with no land in sight. Many hours later we arrived at the Snares Islands.

Snares Islands with me obstructing the view (notice my flash glasses)

Only about 15 people ever get down here each year. Saw Snares crested penguins, a rare type of penguin that's only found on these islands. Also a few sealions lounging on the rocks.

Snares Crested Penguins

No natural harbours, and only people with permits were allowed to set foot on land, so we had to drift offshore and take gear over to the island in the Zodiac.

Loading up the Zodiac
 

Bobby and Adrian braving the waves in the Zodiac

Left Thomas, Dave, and Melanie there for the next six weeks. Hope they get along : )

Dave Houston from DOC by the hut

Asked the captain what latitude we were at; he replied 48 degrees, towards the end of the Roaring Forties. I then asked what the 50s were called; he replied F*cking Cold. Reluctantly went back. Lounged on the boat. For a while Adrian and I lay on our Thermarests on the back of the boat, basking in the sunlight. Eventually arrived at Oman in Halfmoon Bay, the only settlement on Stewart Island. Dropped off our gear at the hotel and walked to Observation Rock for great views and conversation. Returned after sunset and cooked dinner by the beach. Ate all my food, so grabbed some muesli and doused it with beer. Christine vows never, ever to do this again. Made a shelter on the beach with two fishing boats and a Zodiac, and slept underneath quite comfortably and quite cheaply.

Me beneath the Zodiac shelter

Once I'd crawled into the cave and had adjusted to water and slime dripping onto me from the Zodiac above, I commented to Adrian, "Wow, the moon is pretty bright tonight, eh?" To which Adrian replied, "Uh, that's the streetlight, Christine." Doh. Another quote for Antics.

Woke up 6:30am. Lounged around for a bit.

Halfmoon Bay early in the morning, Adrian gazing at the sunrise near our shelter on the beach

Soon discovered it was really 7:30am because I hadn't set my watch forward for daylight savings time. Rushed to the ferry, which was meant to leave at 8am. Discovered a big container ship was stranded in Bluff harbour, and they weren't letting any other ships in.

Ship stranded in Bluff harbour

Finally got word that we were allowed to go. Took the ferry from Halfmoon Bay to Bluff. Picked up the University of Otago van and checked out the view from the hill above Bluff - views down to Bluff, south to Stewart Island, and west to the Takitimu Mountains and Fiordland. Left for Dunedin with good chats with Adrian on the way.

Love Christine