rapaki marae and bushball

Wednesday, July 17

Last Wednesday morning, Ang and I headed off in her white Toyota (oh, memories of my North Island trip with Maureen...) towards the Rapaki marae on the Banks Peninsula near Christchurch. About a five hour drive up the east coast of the North Island. We're both sitting a paper on Hauora (Maori health) this term. One element of the paper is a block course, three days of class with people sitting the paper in Dunedin, Christchurch, and Wellington. Our tutor John Broughton was unfortunately unable to attend. Social organisation in Maori society is based on kinship, so people in the same whanau (extended family) are most closely related. The hapu (sub-tribe) is the next level up and is made up of many whanau. An iwi (tribe) is a collection of hapu. The marae we were staying at was maintained by the family of the husband of Suzanne Pitama, the tutor for the Hauora paper in Christchurch. The hapu was Te Wheke, which is also the name of the marae, although it is also called the Rapaki marae since it is located in Rapaki, a part of the Banks Peninsula. The iwi was Ngai Tahu, the predominant iwi on the South Island. Participated in the powhiri or ritual of encounter, where we were welcomed onto the marae by the tangata whenua, or local people. More on this is to be found in my notes for MAOR 102 - Maori Society. The powhiri was much briefer than what I had expected - karanga, short tangi, then entered the wharenui (main house on the marae) for one whaikorero and waiata by the tangata whenua and one whaikorero and waiata by the manuhiri, then hongi and lunch. Afterwards we did introductions and had a lecture on the Treaty of Waitangi. Had some kai (food) then listened to a woman from the marae recite the local whakapapa. Suzanne's mother-in-law then taught us how to weave flowers from harakeke (flax bushes). A quick supper and then bed in the main room of the wharenui (meeting house on the marae).
 
 

All the PUBH 709 students in front of Te Wheke, the marae at Rapaki

Thursday, July 18

Went for a run before breakfast and saw the sun rise over the Banks Peninsula. After breakfast we talked about paradigms and Maori models of health. Then a discussion of Maori in the health sector, followed by lunch (we ate a lot). Then a discussion of Maori health research. Down to the beach to see a statue erected by the Tainui people - a figure of a woman cradling her child and looking out to an island across from the Rapaki marae - many Tainui people were killed and buried there ages and ages ago, and the statue is meant as a memorial.
 
 

The beach at Rapaki

After dinner we prepared for the presentations we were supposed to give the following morning, although we were shattered by the end of the day, especially Honey who was not used to sleeping in large groups with snoring people. Maybe here I should mention some of the people who were on the marae with us. Chrissy, 21 and married, doing her MPH in Wellington by correspondence while living in Palmerston North and caring for her 6 month old son Abraham, who came to the marae, crawled on the carpet during lectures, and got lots of cuddles from everyone there. Tracey, who had a son at age 15 and had managed to complete her degree and start a position as junior researcher. Tim Rochford and Suzanne Pitama, the tutors from Wellington and Christchurch, both Maori, and both wonderful people. I wrote in my last letter that I felt I had lost all faith in humanity; and not to get all sappy but being on the marae in all actually restored that faith. Perhaps simply idealism in the face of realism.

Friday, July 19

Woke up and went for a run again. Beautiful sunrise that made the water look a deep purple. Had breakfast and did our presentations, which we all received a grade of 5 / 5 for. Had a poroporoaki or farewell where we each discussed what we got out of the marae experience. Quite a few tears from people who were homesick for their marae or just home in general. While academics is based on and perhaps benefits from strong competition, what I appreciate about studying public or community health is that there is also a measure of support and empathy, some idealistic striving to create the type of healthy social environments that we talk about in class. And so for people to weep openly in front of classmates and tutors, potentially future colleagues and employers, is not a shameful thing, especially in a Maori context where crying is considered a way to heal yourself, to let emotions out and move on. As an aside, one person (Pakeha not Maori) told me that she would actually seek out a Maori physician because of the holistic view that Maori society takes on health and healing. After our touching poroporoaki, we had lunch, tidied up, and sang "Stand By Me" to the nannas who cooked for us (I played guitar) and gave them each gift baskets and some flowers that we wove out of flax leaves.
 
 

The nanas in the kitchen at Rapaki

Left Rapaki with Angela. Picked up a young student hitching to Wanaka to go skiing for the weekend. Gorgeous views of the Southern Alps to the west. Arrived in Dunedin around 5:30. Ang dropped me off at my office where I did a quick change of clothing, emptied my pack of stuff I took to the marae, and threw in stuff for my tramping trip.

Met up at 6:00 outside of Clubs and Socs with a few friends and lots of new international students - 96 trampers in total. Jumped into vans (about 8 of them) and headed to Mount Aspiring National Park near Wanaka for a wild weekend in the bush. Interestingly, this area is part of the land claimed by Tim Rochford's hapu (Tim is the tutor for the Hauora paper in Wellington). His marae is not far from the Karangarua River, where we stayed the Friday night of our trip to the Copland Hot Pools. The Maori name for Mount Aspiring is Tititea (each mountain is considered as and named after an ancestor). Our van (Steve, Jodi, Emerson, Dani, Daniella, Maureen, Christine, Amy, Trevor, Anna, Cushla, Jenny) stopped in Alex(andra) for tea. Wahoo! Another muesli bar. Eventually arrived at the park and set up tent flies in the parking lot. I ended up with some Norwegian and Dutch guys, but the wind was so strong that the noise from the tent fly flapping kept me up most of the night.

Saturday, July 20

Early in the morning I eventually crawled into the van, where Cushla, Emerson, and Steve had wisely decided to spend the night. Minutes after I'd settled into the back seat, Steve started up the engine and took us out of the valley to where Cushla's cell phone reception was restored. Someone had forgotten to pack the mixer for our party that night, and we had to call the DJ in Dunedin to tell him to bring one along. All I remember is bouncing around in the back seat, and sleeping on a soup ladle. Eventually bounced back to the car park, and couldn't be bothered trying to sleep any more. Quick breakfast from the back of the van, packed the wheelbarrows and sackbarrows with kegs, a generator, fuel containers, speakers, an amp, and mixed drinks. Split up the food and lights among our packs. Headed out along the West Matukituki Valley, wheeling the barrows down the track.
 
 

The Matukituki Valley
 
 

Wheeling barrows of kegs and supplies to the hut

Multiple cocktail stops along the way. Eventually made it to Aspiring Hut and claimed a bunk. Chopped veggies for dinner. Got dressed into our costumes - theme was Time Machine although most of us took liberties with the interpretation - I went Indian style with a sari, jewellery, and bindhi.
 
 

In front - me, Dani, Laura, and Maureen; in back - some German guy, and Jake
 
 

Cushla, Anna, Tom, and Emerson

Ate yummy dinner - pumpkin soup, veggie stew with rice, and ambrosia. Danced all night, supported by a DJ who came up Saturday morning from Dunedin. Eventually collapsed into bed still wearing my sari. Bunkroom was a little crowded, and had no idea who I was sleeping next to. Couldn't roll over during the night without disturbing the people on either side.

Sunday, July 21

Woke up early with bindhi miraculously still stuck on my forehead. The hut and surrounding area were a bit chaotic. Big tubs of potato salad and ambrosia still sitting on the counter. Someone had spilled ambrosia into someone else's boots. Bits of fruit salad on the floor of the bunkroom. Spent the morning cleaning up the hut and packing. Had lots of rain and thunder Saturday night so the track was a bit squishy, and even though the kegs were for the most part empty, it was still a bit tricky wheeling the barrows out - especially given that we'd all had toooo little sleep the night before. Smelly garbage not too pleasant either. Charch had a sprained ankle and so was transported out in one of the wheelbarrows. Eventually made it back to the car park, loaded up the vans, and headed back to Dunedin. Except for Stephen who was driving, the rest of us finished off our keg by the time we hit Cromwell, where we stopped for tea and Cushla worked her charms on the young cashier at Super Liquor - do you have a bucket in the back where we can mix this stuff? Got to Dunners and as usual, had some tea and chats with Simon and Emma, stuck some laundry in the washer, and curled up in bed.

Love Christine

 

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