Removing oil cooler
	Mounting oil cooler

• dirty "honeycomb"
• cooler is clogged from inside
• cooler leaks

These problems may cause overheating, irregular greasing (because of inadequate oil temperature and pressure), or increased oil consumption. In shorter or longer term of exploitation, engine can be seriously damaged.

You can check the cooler in following ways:

• visual inspect: look if there's a lot of dirtiness on a cooler which disables proper heat exchange between cooling air and oil which runs through the cooler; also check if there are some oil spots on and around the cooler or its pipes which may point out to leaking; oil spots inside of the fan area also can be caused by leaking cooler
• remove the cooler and sink it into the gasoline (in such a way that holes of the pipes are not sunk); let the air under pressure through one of its pipes, clog the other one and check for bubbles

If you find out that cooler leaks, you should replace it although in some cases it can be fixed.

Cleaning oil cooler

Sink the cooler into trichlorethylen (gasoline can be used instead), and after that blow it through with the air under (not too high) pressure. Blow the air through the pipes and through the honeycomb as well. The compressor should be used, but in necessity manual pump can help. Repeat the cleaning until you're sure the result is satisfying. If there's a lot of dirtiness on a honeycomb, use a wire to remove it from there. Honeycomb is made of pretty gentle and thin aluminum so be very careful to avoid making some damage on it. It's also a good idea to leave this job to a service which has special machines for washing engine parts.

Yet another thing: if you are going to clean the cooler, it's best to do this right before an oil change. In this case engine will be cleaned from the maximum possible amount of used oil which is very important.

Tip: when the cooler is removed, it will make it easy to check cylinder cooling ribs and to clean them also if needed. A lot of dirtiness can deposit there and aggravate cylinder cooling. Don't miss an opportunity to do this job.

However, if some work on the cooler is necessary, it has to be removed first.

• remove sheet panel with a grille between front wings (Dyane and Ami) and protecting wire net in front of the fan.
• remove the air filter
• remove the fan (follow the instructions)
• unscrew all nuts and bolts that are retaining the front air deflector (engine hood) - position 1 on figure 1, including engine mounting nuts (position 4)

Figure 1: Front air deflector (engine hood) (1) and engine carrier (2) with its bolt (3)

• unscrew the engine carrier (2) retaining bolts (3)
• in order to remove engine hood, engine carriers must be removed first; to do this, jack the engine up for a little, so you can take them out

Note: if you don't have appropriate jack for lifting the engine, you can ask someone (2 men needed) to lift the engine on their hands until you do the job (which should last only coupple of seconds). In such a case manifold should be used for engine handling.

• now you can remove the engine hood

Note: I've been told that the engine hood can be removed without removing engine carriers: if you know how, please notify me

• unscrew the bolts that connect cooler pipes to the engine oil pipes (position 1 on figure 2): use 14 mm open ended spanner; this can take some time because these bolts are pretty unreachable
• remove sheet panel in front of the cooler
• make sure there's no dirtyness arround the pipes
• remove the cooler: certain amount of oil will leak out, so be ready to cork the holes with something; be very carefull - dirtyness must not enter!

Figure 2: cooler mounting bolts (1)

IMPORTANT: you MUST NOT start the engine when the cooler is off, because oil circulation is interrupted and the engine can be damaged!

• make sure that rubber seals on the cooler's pipes are fixed properly ( position 6 on figure 3); it can also happen that these seals do not leave the housing when you remove the cooler: in such case just  push the pipes back carefully

Figure 3: installing cooler pipes

• screw the bolts, which you must do very careful: edges of the bolt heads can be easily damaged because of very inconvenient position of spanner
• start the engine to check the sealing between cooler pipes and the engine. If you have repaired cooler which was leaking, also check critical points. Viscosity level of the oil is lower on higher temperature level, so it is good even to drive the car for a while in order to achieve higher temperature, which will make checking more credible. But keep in your mind that the fan is off, so drive only for short and don't push it too hard! Or, install the fan before drive.
• if you find out that it does not seal well, try to screw the bolts harder. It can happen that you must remove the cooler again and place it back with more care, but it's important to do this job properly - be patient enough if needed!
• when everything is all right, place all parts back. Pay attention for electric wires behind the fan. Put some grease on engine hoods' edges to make installing easier. Install engine hood before engine carriers (installing is the same as removing but in the opposite order - you'll need to lift the engine again). Tighten engine carriers' retaining bolts hard enough (6 daNm tightening torque is determined by factory manual)