Day 2: Louisiana to McAllen, Texas
Taking a break
from driving- South Padre IslandMonday, June 26th, 1995
Taking a break
from driving- South Padre IslandSean stops for gas just across the border of Texas. It's about 2:30 a.m. and he's tired. He mumbles something about the hallucinations he's had then crawls into the back.
I drive the midnight shift while Sean and Bill (the stuffed dog) sleep. There is a storm out over the Gulf to the south. Impossibly monstrous clouds are sporadically lit from within by lightning. They take on living shapes as the light dances inside them. Almost to Houston, the sky clears and if I lean forward in my seat, I can see the milky way. Houston is lit up by a million points of yellow light bunched up next to the highway. South of the city, I see an occasional bright orange flame on the horizon. They grow larger as I approach- giant torches atop oil vent stacks ten stories in the sky.
I drive until daybreak. The Vivarin I took keeps me oddly aware, but makes me ill. At 6:30 the sun is rising and I'm out of gas. Sean takes over, and with the Vivarin still playing games with my gray matter I to crawl into the back. I read about Mexican culture in one of our books before drifting off to sleep.
Sean makes great time driving. We are cutting AAA's estimated driving times by as much as 30% and again find ourselves very early. Sean suggests we stop by South Padre Island, which he has wanted to visit since seeing it on MTV. South Padre is geographically much like the outer banks of North Carolina, but the feel is more like Daytona or Myrtle Beach. It has recently become a popular spring break destination.
We make our second stop of the trip by the sound on South Padre Island. I take a few pictures (above) as we eat tuna fish and feed the ants. "Even the ants are bigger in Texas," I note. We cruise up and down the island on the highway and beach road. Sean picks out a swim suit while I look for "Don't mess with Texas" bumper stickers. We park Pedro at a big hotel to go swimming in the ocean. The water is clear and just the right temperature- it feels sensational.
I drive for McAllen and Sanborn's insurance company, picking up four bumper stickers on the way. Sean naps in back. I find Sanborn's around mid afternoon. The directions they gave me over the phone take me straight to their biggest competitor in McAllen, who sets me straight. Sean finishes up his nap while I fill out visa forms, pick out map books, etc.
An old guy plugged into an oxygen tank wakes Sean as he sleeps in the back of the truck to strike up an unwanted conversation about Belize. He tells him "It's pot country. Pot country." Apparently this guy makes frequent trips to Central America with his wife. He claims the U.S. to Belize drive time is five days- we are planning on three. Sean comes inside to get away. We get all our paperwork wrapped up and head across the street to a large mall. Walking around inside, we feel as though we have already entered another country. Everyone looks and dresses Mexican, and Spanish is heard frequently. We often catch young women staring at us. At first we surmise that it's because we are two young, attractive, blue-eyed guys in a mall full of pubescent girls. However, we later decide it's because we're two young guys walking around together in shorts and sandals and they think we're gay.
We grab a late lunch. Sean opts for a salad while I head for the vaguely Mexican-looking taco stand in the middle of the food court. I order the chicken soft taco plate, and am pleased when I bite into one of the best tacos I've ever had.
We leave the
mall and eventually find the Citrus Grove RV Park. We drive around
the compound a couple of times looking for the manager's office, and finally
break down and ask an old couple enjoying the swimming pool. They
point out his trailer and tell us to knock hard. "He's not real good
at answering the door," they explain.
The cost is $16.00. We pick an open area and spend some time re-organizing the back of the truck. We move the spare parts box and a tank of water up onto the rack. I install the two small 12V electric fans that will keep us comfortable while we're sleeping in the back. Sean cuts some privacy curtains for the back windows.
We go swimming in the park pool as the sun sets in a clear blue sky. The water is a bit warm, but refreshing nonetheless. Showers afterwards leave us in awe of how good it feels to be clean. During the walk back to truck, a vicious Texas Foot Frog attacks Sean. We go out and get some beer: a six pack of Lone Star, "The National Beer of Texas."
Back at the campground, we pick a secluded little space (photo left) on 'Armadillo Street,' have some pasta and beer for dinner, and crash. Sleep comes quickly.