SCENE OF THE CRIME

*COMPUTERS*

SUSPECTS

RAM MEMORY - If the POST displays less total memory than you have fitted, one of the RAM modules has failed or worked loose. Remove and reseat all the chips. If this works but the problem returns after a few weeks or months, check that you do not have gold-edged SIMMs or DIMMs plugging into tin-coated sockets or viceversa. A chemical reaction at the interface of these two metals slowly worsens electric contact. If re-seating doesn’t help, remove each module in turn until you locate the faulty unit, remembering not ot leave any SIMM banks half-empty. aPost error messages in the 2xx range or parity check errors also indicate faulty ram modules.

POWER SUPPLY – Press the On button. If the LED doesn’t come on, check the AC power supply. Is the PC plugged in? Check the fuse. Now plug the PC’s power lead into the monitor. If the monitor switches on OK, the problem lies with the DC supply from the PSU in the PC. A flickering power LED, PSU fan spinning up and down erratically, error messages beginning 01 or 02 on the POST or the PC turning itself off abruptly after a successful startup are all also symptons of a faulty DC supply. If removing expansion cards and/or disk drives helps, the PSU needs to be replaced with a high-wattage unit.

MOTHERBOARD – If ram modules are not recognised in one particular socket or expansion cards consistently appear dead in one of the expansion slots but work in all the others, check that none of the metal fingers in the socket are bent or missing. If the system time runs slow or you see POST error messages 102, 103, 161-164, 199 or anything beginning with 17, try replacing the CMOS battery. A hard disk that is repeatedly not recognised until you run the autodetect sequence from the BIOS setup program is also a symptom of a flat CMOS battery. If the system does not reach the POST but all the power LEDs are on and fans spinning, the motherboard is dead.

CPU – CPU failure is very rare – the motherboard normally blows first and protects the processor, like a very expensive fuse. Overclocked processors can cause system malfuncions, though; erratic lock-ups and reboots are the sysmpton of this. Upgrading to a much faster processor can also put a strain on slower components, particularly the RAM by forcing it to run faster. If the PC reboots after prolonged periods of use and then fails the POST or does not start windows, this indicates an overheating problem. If reboots occur when running the same programs, regardless of how long the PC has been on, the CPU may be drawing more power than the PSU can supply. This is a problem with the Athlon systems.

VIDEO – Power LED on, fan spinning but nothing shows on the screen. If you hear one long and two short beeps, this is a graphics card fault. If you don’t, blame the monitor. Try removing the graphics card and re-inserting it. If you have a graphics chip integrated on your motherboard and you are overriding it with an expansion card, remove it. If the built-in graphics don’t work, the motherboard has probably blown. If it’s just the expansion card that fails, the check that the BIOS is overriding the built-in graphics correctly. A flat CMOS battery can cause this setting to be lost. Monitor faults are usually caused by a blown transformer. This is not user-serviceable.

HARD DISK – Error 1702 or ‘drive not ready’ messages indicate a failed hard disk or drive controller. Test which by plugging the drive into the secondary IDE connector and booting from a floppy disk. Make sure that the ribbon cable is not damaged and that the red wire is aligned with pin 1 on the connector. ‘General failure reading drive C’ is normally caused by data corruption. Boot and run scandisk from a windows recovery disk. Then back up your data and replace the drive. Low groaning noises coming from the drive, accompanied by erratic spinning up and down of the disk indicate a problem with the drive motor. Try a different power cable. If that doesn’t help, replace the drive.

  

TOOLS OF THE TRADE

BASIC

  • Medium-sized philips screwdriver.

 ADVANCED 

  • Ratchet screwdriver set with magnetic bits (useful for rescuing dropped screws from the crevices).

  • Needle-nose pliers. These are great for changing those tiny black jumpers on soundcards and so on. Particularly when there are several in a row.

  • Chip removal tool. You can prise chips out of their sockets with a small screwdriver but you are much less likely to bend a pin with one of these.

  • Can of compressed air. Handy for blowing bits of fluff out of the way.

  • Multimeter. You can save some time diagnosing PSU faults with one of these but you have to know what are you doing. Please don’t go testing the AC mains voltage while you’re in the bath or anything. A new PSU is cheaper than a multimeter anyway.

 

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