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to Sabang and then to St. Paul's Underground River which is a part of Puerto Princessa Subterranean River National Park. Later that evening Michael and I wandered in the dinghy around the headland of our bay. On the seaward side of the point we surprised three "crab-eating macaque" monkeys down by the lapping sea who moved unhurriedly over the rocks to the jungle edge when the saw us.
St. Valentine's Day.
The morning was flat calm. It was a good day to go on a long ride in a banca. As we skimmed towards Sabang sudden patches of coral would appear beneath us. I wondered why the skipper had tied a pair of red knickers to his outrigger stays, but the color did set off the sea blues to advantage.
Sabang, at least what we saw of it, looked to be a collection of souvenir shop catering to the thousands who come here to see the park. We paid our fees in a dingy office then returned to the banca for a 20 minute trip to the landing near the Underground River.
The river, called the Mystic by a Commander of the Royal Navy when shown it by natives, is thought to be the longest navigable underground river in the world. It penetrates a limestone formation for more than eight kilometers. We clambered into park service canoes and donned hardhats for the ride. In places the cave's ceiling soars more than 60 meters overhead. It had its share of significant formations that looked like the Holy Family or the Madonna or whatever. Our canoe was outfitted with a 12 volt car battery that provided electricity for a powerful lamp. Bats and swifts inhabit the caves and the only sounds inside is the sound bats make with their sonar as they fly.
We felt that we had squeezed all we could out of our Philippine experience. Getting acquainted with the people of Guiuan and Suluan through our Carolinian Drift Voyage research had provided a great start. We had learned early that Filipinos lover personal relationships and want to make their relationship with you very personal very fast. They are quick with a smile and sociably curious. They never say no----which can lead to complications or expectations that will be left unfulfilled. Some tried to gyp us, but the vast majority was quite fair. Fruit and vegetable vendors never overcharged. We hated though when kids, even tots, would stick their hands out and say, "Hey Joe, gimme money."
15 April 04. Sea Quest and Harmony set out from Fish Bay on Palawan for Kudat on Northern Borneo on a three and a half day passage well offshore away from local pirates and their main prey, smugglers from Malaysia's duty free port of Labuan. Michael and I plan to be in Malaysia at least six months.
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