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coastline was exposed. We found the main harbor at Larena to be tiny and to have a ferry pier. At midnight a continuously sounding horn had us scampering on deck hastily pulling on clothes. We were just in time to watch a ship dump its five ton anchor right beside us. In this harbor two is a crowd. We made a hasty exit.
A nice romp the next day took us to the southern tip of Negros past rocky Apo Island where there is a dive resort. We rounded into landlocked Bonbonon harbor which is quite invisible from the sea. It is a careenage for native boats, some as large as 75 feet. They drag them up the beach for repairs or to rebuild. Deeper into the harbor is an inner bay that is a favorite for cruisers to stop for months at a time because it is so protected and because there are compatriots here who have married Filipinas. But to buy stores you must clatter two hours over rough roads in the back of a jitney bus to Dumagette.
Boracay is at the north end of Panay. We made the trip in three days stopping off one afternoon at San Jose de Buena Vista on Negros, and the next at Maralison Island off Culasi Town on Panay. The first was thriving market town with the most incredible fleet of fishing boats; the second a picture-book islets with white sand beaches and a small village.
Boracay has a world-famous powdery white sand beach over which one glorious sunset after another is displayed. Resorts and bistros have accumulated behind the sand track that meanders behind the beach. Each establishment claims a bit of beach for their patrons and sets out there beach chairs and table. The whole place pulses with noise, energy and happy people on holiday. We enjoyed the sophistication of drinking Italian cappuccinos here.
Fifty miles north is Romblon. We had to beat along Tablas Island to get there and broke the trip for the night at pretty Cabahan Island. The Romblon group consists of four main islands grouped around a sheltered sound. The old town with its antique church wraps around a deep bay. Ruined Spanish forts keep silent vigil from commanding headlands. The atmosphere was different here. More people were employed because for centuries marble has been mined from its hills. Over time some have become very skilled at carving stone. Crowded ateliers display everything from grave markers to four foot high sphinxes! There are lions and dragon-jars….and everything tacky and sublime in between. If the carvers are shown a model, they can reproduce it!
Puerto Galera on Mindoro was a long overnight haul with a break at Banton island for a few hours rest before continuing on. The extreme configuration of her hills caused screaming willy wahs to pummel us, so we got no rest. We got underway again at 10 PM, our trip timed so we would have good light to enter Puerto Galera in the morning. As soon as we were half a mile from our anchorage the winds again became peaceful.
There was a lot of ship traffic on this route along with fishing boats and an island or tow to keep track of. Past Marinduque on the south side of Luzon is a natural gas depot that is lit up like a Christmas tree.
At beautiful landlocked Puerto Galera we preceded to the Puerto Galera yacht Club moorings. This bay, as well as being charming and interesting in its own right, is also extremely convenient for cruisers. Ordi
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