“It’s the altitude”

Inca Trail trek to Machu Picchu 19^th May – 28^th May 2007

My Personal Diary

 

 

In the book I read “The Inca Trail Cusco and Machu Picchu” it says that high altitude will make you short of breath, lose your appetite, presents sleeping difficulties, make your hands face and ankles swell up, give you headaches and make you fart and burp – oh joy!

 

However my ten day experience made any inconvenience I suffered pale into insignificance as I undertook a trek with a group of fantastic people which has left me with countless wonderful memories which will last forever, and in doing so enabled me to raise funds for two fabulous charities; Macmillan Cancer Relief and Myeloma UK.

 

 

Days 1 and 2 – Saturday 19^th and Sunday 20^th May 2007 – Heathrow – Cusco

 

After saying goodbye to Hazel, Nici and Robbie gave me a lift to Shenfield Station and after a two hour train journey I arrived at Heathrow at around midday. Following a drink and a talk to one or two people I recognised from the Info Day I made my way up to the Departure Area and as I got out of the lift I saw someone standing there wearing a fleece and hiking boots and carrying a rucksack and soft holdall, what chance was there that they were going to Peru, I had nothing to lose so I asked;

 

“Are you going to Peru?” 

“Yes” came the reply

“So am I, my name’s Barry”

“I’m Christine”

 

So having introduced ourselves we made our way to find the meeting area and upon reaching the meeting area I saw Janet who I knew from the Info Day, so the two of us went over to Janet who at the time was talking to Gary, we introduced ourselves and “Gary’s Gang” was formed. The four of us spent the next 10 days laughing, joking, trekking and supporting one another, Tiny even agreed to alter the rooming/tent arrangements so that Janet and Christine were sharing and Gary and I were sharing.

 

After 24 hours of travelling via New York and Lima we arrived at Cusco late Sunday morning and enjoyed our first taste of Inca Cola, a green fizzy drink that tastes something like cream soda.

 

After making our way to the hotel carrying bags which seemed to be a lot heavier than when we left Heathrow, perhaps it was something to do with the altitude (3,600 metres), after checking in we attended a briefing and had our first cup of coca tea.

 

After lunch we went for a fairly long, but slow walk up the Av el Sol to the Plaza de Armas, a lovely Spanish colonial square in the middle of Cusco. There were many dancers forming a parade when we arrived, all celebrating their version of our “Harvest Festival” with the dancers coming in from all the local villages and each dance demonstrating a different aspect of farming.

 

This was a good introduction to walking around at altitude and after returning to the hotel for dinner we returned to the Plaza de Armas for a nightcap before returning to the hotel at 9.30pm, and this was to be a late night compared with days to come.

 

 

Day 3 – Monday 21^st May 2007 – Tambo Machay – Cusco

 

Wake up call was 6am (and this turned out to be our latest wake up call for a few days) ready for breakfast at 7am and off for an acclimatisation day, by walking from Tambo Machay, an ancient ruin high above the vast Cusco Valley, past fascinating Inca sites in the countryside around the city. We then took a gentle downhill walk to Sacsayhuaman, a huge and impressive Inca ruin. 

 

By mid afternoon we were back at the Plaza de Armas and after a refreshing drink made our way back to the hotel to prepare our day bags (rucksacks) and pack our sacks before Greg took us out to a local restaurant, where for the first time we all tried the local delicacy, guinea pig. As regards to the acclimatisation day this didn’t go too bad although I did suffer from a tight headache across the forehead rather like the headache you would associate with being out in bright sunlight, otherwise I was okay.

Day 4 – Tuesday 22^nd May 2007 – KM82 (2,750 metres) – Wayllabamba (2,700 metres)

 

Wake up call 4.15am and away by 6am and after a three hour drive through eucalyptus laden hills listening to the sounds of panpipes on the radio we rose above the first layer of clouds to see a wonderful view of mountains with their peaks still disappearing into a sea of clouds high above. The drive took us via Ollantaytambo, (the last town we would see for four days where we bought last minute essentials i.e. walking poles, ponchos, chocolate and coca chewing gum etc) to the beginning of our trail at the starting point Km 82. This was an eventful drive avoiding cattle, sheep, road slides and the most vicious speed humps you have seen anywhere in the world before driving along the side of the Rio Urubamba heading towards the start of the Inca Trail at one end of the Sacred Valley.

 

Having left the coach, and pausing for a group photo, we walked along the side of the railway and Rio Urubamba to the beginning of the Inca Trail where we were all checked in, as it happened I was last and this in some ways set a precedent for what was to come.

 

Each day was split into three sections; an early morning trek where after which we stopped for a short break and refreshments, a midmorning trek after which we stopped for lunch and then an afternoon trek which finished when we reached our campsite.

During the first half day of the walk where we followed the snaking Rio Urubamba along an undulating path, team work began to set in. After pausing to take photos of a wonderful Inca site in the valley below Gary dropped towards the back of the group feeling unwell, however the doctors put him right and the four of us made sure we walked together up until lunchtime by which time Gary was back to his old self and okay.

 

After lunch as the trail started to drop down into a valley, we then began a long gradual climb, and along the way there were a couple of steep drops and climbs into gullies with spectacular views of Mount Veronica standing at 5,000 metres. Initially the four of us started to walk together before splitting up and walking at different paces. With Gary feeling unwell in the morning and Janet anxious not to put her knee under too much pressure too early (Janet had suffered a serious skiing injury some 10 years earlier) they walked together whilst Christine was anxious to get on with the walk and I thought I would try to keep up with her. Christine set a good pace and much to my surprise after a while we were in the leading group of ten or so trekkers, as the entire party stretched along the trail. Christine is obviously very fit and walking at a fair pace and I was pleased I could keep up with her whilst Gary and Janet gave each other support and encouragement as they made their way along the trail.

 

Being one of the first to arrive at the campsite at Wayllabamba we were able to have a choice of which tents to use and while Christine reserved a tent for herself and Janet, I reserved a tent for Gary and I. Then there was a problem, I couldn’t remember the number of our sack and Christine couldn’t find the one she and Janet had filled earlier in the day. Janet and Christine were eventually reunited with their sack and Gary and I found our sack. On arriving at camp we continued to have wonderful views of Mount Veronica and Team Leader Greg who had completed the Inca Trail a dozen or so times said that this was only the second or third time the weather had been clear enough to see Mount Veronica, we were truly very lucky.

Day 5 – Wednesday 23^rd May 2007- Wayllabamba (2,700 metres) – Pacamayo (3,600 metres)

 

As the group had made such good progress the day before we had a special treat – our alarm call was 5.45am rather than 5.15am! However Gary and I were up at 5.30am repacking our rucksacks and sack.

 

Today we undertook the exciting climb from Wayllabamba at 2,700 metres to Dead Womens Pass at 4,200 metres before dropping down to Pacamayo at 3,700 metres. So after a good breakfast we started the relentless and steep climb on narrow trails through lush grassland and cloud forest along a sometimes muddy path. Whilst we all started out together, as the route took us through a tropical rainforest which was very humid in the bright sunlight we soon found it necessary to walk at our own pace. I managed to stay with the leading group during the two morning sessions which was a real personal achievement and largely due to the fact that having managed to keep up with Christine the previous afternoon I thought I would give it a go.

 

As we lunched on a pasture surrounded by amazing scenery, stunning snow capped mountains with a distant view to the top of the spectacular Dead Womens Pass in front of us, we learned of the sad news that despite wanting to, Scarlet had not made it past the first day’s trek and would not be completing the entire Inca Trail. She was now retreating down the Inca Trail but would be joining us in Machu Picchu. The final stretch to the top of Dead Womens Pass is well maintained with steps but the pace was slow due to the altitude. At lunch the four of us didn’t eat too much. We could see Dead Womens Pass in the distance and I decided that now was the time to join Gary, Christine and Janet who had joined “Carol’s group”, Carol was quite happy to lead a small party at the back of the trekking group, setting a pace which many found comfortable and included an ample number of rests so that nobody became exhausted. Janet, Christine, Gary and I walked with this group a lot of the time, however on one or two occasions I found it necessary to walk at my own pace in order to cope, for example, the walk through the tropical rainforest earlier in the day I had to do at my own pace, during this part of the trek I was taking long lazy strides covering as much ground as possible with as little effort, together with taking regular stops. However after lunch I joined Carol’s group for the demanding walk towards Dead Womens Pass. As we progressed up to the highest point of 4,200 metres, there were around ten of us in this group and eventually I was the last walker with only Siobhan (one of the doctors) and Cambers (one of the trek leaders) behind me.

On reaching Dead Womens Pass it was all very emotional, much hugging and crying and of course photos, after which we made our way down the other side. Whilst it was good to get lower, the steps were becoming very steep and at times difficult. As we descended the 500 metres on the steps towards our camp at Pacamayo below the historic ruins of Runkurakay I found myself for the second time walking with Christine who was beginning to feel unwell. Having arrived at camp, Christine went straight to her tent and crashed out for three hours, however after this rest she felt a lot better. However Ieva who had also been feeling unwell now had the “privilege” of being carried down piggy back style by one of the cheskies. The cheskies, as they had been doing throughout when carrying our supplies ran along the trail, and the fact that they were now carrying Ieva piggy back style made no difference, they continued to run with Ieva hanging on for dear life. Most of us thought that this was more frightening than walking!

 

Shortly after making camp it started to pour with rain, (the only real rain we had during the day at any time during the trek) so Gary and I took the opportunity to take a “power nap”, but I think this lasted for an hour or so, some “power nap”! By the time we were due to leave the tent and go for dinner the rain had stopped. After another great dinner, once again Janet and Christine together with Gary and I who were feeling better for our “power nap” were the last trekkers to leave the mess tent at 8.30pm (all the other trekkers had gone to bed!) leaving the trek leaders, guides and doctors to continue debriefing themselves after what was the most demanding day.

 

 

Day 6 – Thursday 24^th May 2007 – Pacamayo (3,600 metres) – Winay Wayna (2,700 metres)

 

If yesterday was the most demanding day then this was to turn out to be the longest and most tiring day, the reason being that after passing through Dead Womens Pass at 4,200 metres the previous day we are then dropped to around 3,600 metres to camp and now we had to go back up to around 3,900 metres before starting another descent. The Inca Trail is now a proper path of mostly steps which can be very steep. Fascinating ruins are visible every mile or so along the way. After crossing the second highest pass at 3,900 metres with steps leading to the top and down the other side, we descended to the amazing Sayacmarca ruin and from there the trail is pretty wide with views of lush cloud forest. Having made the summit at 3,900 metres I didn’t stay there too long with Gary, Christine and Janet as I was beginning to feel cold with the area being covered in low cloud and I didn’t want to put on a fleece so I started to go down by myself. After passing through a small damp tunnel I tripped on some loose rocks and fell over. It was shortly after this that I decided not to use my walking poles for the descent and walk unaided, and this proved to be much the better case for me. Initially I started walking slowly however eventually I found myself running and unknowingly overtook everyone else before being joined by Abraham the assistant guide (what I learned later was that I had passed the guide who was leading the entire party down and they were rather worried about me so they sent Abraham down to join me to make sure I didn’t get injured). The run down was truly amazing and an adrenaline fuelled experience, I was the first one to make the lunch stop and the cheskies seemed quite surprised how quickly I had got there, I must admit I even surprised myself for I didn’t think for one minute that I would be running any part of the Inca Trail, crawling yes, running no!

 

As it turned out it looked as if I was going to be the last one to leave the camp, having been rather slow off the mark and being at the back of a rather long queue for the toilet, as when I made my way down to pick up my rucksack everyone else had left. I was then surprised to see Christine’s rucksack still on the mat, after a minute or two Christine turned up and we made our way off with a view to catching everyone else up.

 

After walking for around 100 metres, Christine confessed that she hadn’t felt too well after lunch and the doctor had given her an antibiotic, however she now needed something else as she thought she was about to suffer with the one thing all of us had dreaded most, but I won’t go into details! As luck would have it, the team leader Greg and doctor Siobhan were walking a few paces behind us and whilst Christine nor I know exactly what the tablet was that Siobhan gave Christine it did a really good job, for after initially Christine questioning whether it was wise to walk behind her, after an hour or so she was pacing away and we soon caught up with Gary and Janet and the four of us continued through the third pass which is reached after passing through an ancient Inca tunnel in the rock and continued to the ruins of Puyupatamarca after which we descended steep steps into our campsite at Winay Wayna, where the four of us walked into camp together. There was much celebration as Machu Picchu was now only a three hour walk away the next day. However unbeknown to us at the time it was during this part of the trek that the only accident occurred, and very serious it could have been. Pete, who has spent almost the entire trek wearing a Birmingham City Football Club replica football shirt (was he talent hunting for his beloved Birmingham City?) tripped whilst walking and fell over the edge, facing a drop of several hundred metres. Luckily he managed to grab hold of a branch after falling only around 4 metres where he hung on waiting to be rescued by a Guide. He had a very lucky escape indeed.

 

Greg the trek leader, was particularly pleased with us all, as we were at Winay Wayna by 5pm, the record for any party Greg has led is 4.38pm, and on some occasions people have been arriving as late as 7pm, in the dark, but not us! For the first time we were staying in a large commercial campsite used by many trekkers who were heading towards Machu Picchu. Gary and I struck gold as with this being such a large campsite it was a real advantage to have your tent pitched as close as possible to the centre of the site, and of all of our tents which were pitched ours was only the third one in. Christine and Janet were not quite so lucky and had to walk around an extra 100 metres further on which was not much fun when you are trying to do this walk late at night with only a head torch to light a very uneven bumpy narrow path to walk along.

With this being a commercial campsite, alcohol was available, for the first time. After dinner Gary persuaded me to stop for a drink and as Christine and Janet left to make their way back to their tent they called out “Barry, you’re living dangerously” referring to the fact I was staying with Gary and one or two others for a drink or two, to which Gary’s response was “We have got to slow him down somehow!” as so far I had been the only one of the four of us not to suffer in one way or another. Gary’s plan eventually worked – read on.

 

 

Day 7 – Friday 25^th May 2007 Winay Wayna (2,700 metres) – Machu Picchu (2,400 metres)

 

This is the day we had all been looking forward to. We were up at 5am (although I had been awake since 4am, Gary’s plan had worked!) after breakfast we set of towards Machu Picchu in brilliant sunshine. The three hour walk took us along a beautiful stretch of trail, scattered with ruins, some steep steps and a few large drops to the Rio Urubamba. However as we approached Inti Punku (the Sun Gate) at 2,700 metres high above Machu Picchu, cloud cover moved in. It was at this point that Greg called Ieva to the front of the entire trekking party so that Ieva could be the first one to enter Machu Picchu, I think that Greg felt that Ieva had done particularly well to complete the entire trek. We were all loosely walking in the same group with Gary being out in front, Christine and Janet in the middle and yes I was at the end, having been the last one to check in and start the trail. I had been the last one to reach Dead Womens Pass and I thought it would be fitting if I was the last one to reach Inti Punku. However this wasn’t to be as a voice called out “Barry” it was Janet suggesting that as we had all done so much of the trek together it would be fitting for us to finish the trek together. This is really great and I think emphasised the team spirit which had developed. We then walked up to Inti Punku where we were greeted by the team leaders and doctors together with Scarlet who had made her way independently to Machu Picchu via the lower route alongside the Sacred Valley. It was truly awe inspiring and for me the most emotional part of the entire trek. Getting through Dead Womens Pass was my personal challenge and goal but in reaching Machu Picchu it reminded me of the meaning of the trek and the reason I had undertaken it.

 

When we set off from the campsite we had been walking in brilliant sunshine, however now that we had reached Machu Picchu the whole site was covered in thick cloud, not unusual for early morning, so after thanking the team leaders and doctors we descended into Machu Picchu but as we could only see around 50 metres in front of us, we had no idea what really laid ahead. Once inside Machu Picchu we paused for a group photo, still in thick cloud, however having taken the group photo the cloud cleared from behind us for around a minute or two and it was a fascinating sight to see Machu Picchu appear almost from nowhere behind us, it’s a sight I don’t think any of us who were there will ever forget.

As we descended towards the entrance (where the day trippers arrive) to drop off our rucksacks and walking poles prior to walking around Machu Picchu the cloud cleared and we could take in the marvellous views of this most wonderful of Inca sites.

 

Having dropped off all our gear we were then taken on a guided tour of Machu Picchu by one of our guides, not a trip round an entire site, this would take at least a day or more and we only had a few hours. However our guide was very knowledgeable and gave us a most interesting insight into the Machu Picchu ruins. The photos I have taken cannot in any way whatsoever give full justice to the site, you cannot really appreciate the awe inspiring Machu Picchu unless you visit it yourself. All too soon it was time to leave although I think without exception we would all have loved to be able to stay there longer, so we made our way back to the entrance, picked up our rucksacks and walking poles, boarded the bus which took us down to Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu Pueblo) where we waited for around 45 minutes before getting on our train for the hour or so journey alongside the Rio Urubamba, back along the Sacred Valley and past KM82 where we had started our trek. It was then back to Cusco where we rechecked into our hotel. All of us had different bedrooms this time, Gary and I thought we had done very well and had great pleasure in telling everybody that we had a large suite complete with tables, chairs and a really good size bathroom. Janet and Christine having patiently listened to us then had great pleasure in telling us that they also had a large suite complete with tables and chairs but their bathroom was huge with a Jacuzzi in the corner, one up to the girls I think!

 

Having used nothing but wet wipes for the last four days it was wonderful to have a shower, wash my hair and in my case have a shave, it was then down for dinner in the hotel and off to the “Cross Keys” in the Plaza de Armas where I enjoyed my first Pisco Sour cocktail. Pisco is the local liqueur and the cocktail consists of Pisco, lemon juice, sugar and the white of an egg, absolutely delicious but not everybody agreed with me! There were a large group of us in the Cross Keys and around 1am half decided that they had had enough and needed to return to the hotel whereas the youngsters including Gary and Janet decided that it was time to party on. However having got back to the hotel I couldn’t sleep and it was well gone 2am before I eventually went to sleep. After letting myself into the hotel room I returned the key to reception so that it was there waiting for Gary when he got back, just as well I did as I have no idea what time he got back, I heard him come into the room but didn’t really wake up.

Day 8 – Saturday 26^th May 2007 – Cusco

 

For the first time in over a week we didn’t have to get up at some unearthly hour, I made breakfast just before 9am however Gary decided to skip breakfast – can’t think why! This was another lovely sunny day and the four of us spent time sightseeing and shopping in Cusco before lunching at around 1pm, some of the group were better at bartering with the shop keepers than I was and saved me a fortune!

 

There seemed to be a stark contrast amongst the children we saw. On the previous Monday we had seen children all smartly dressed in their school uniforms returning to their homes after school, whereas in the Plaza de Armas today we were everlastingly being approached by young children trying to sell us something. Most popular they tried to sell us postcards for one Peruvian Sol (about 16p) or offered to clean our shoes for the same amount.

 

In addition mothers were not afraid to use their children to earn money by inviting us to take photographs of ourselves and their children (all dressed in National Costume), provided of course that we paid them. To help support these poor mothers there is a Mothers Refuge in the centre of Cusco and all of us contributed to the Refuge by donating all of our unused Peruvian Sol at the end of the trip.

 

We were also invited to donate any clothes and medicines which we did not wish to take home at the end of the trip to the families of the cheskies, so somewhere in Cusco there is a family with two of my Macmillan t-shirts, my Myeloma UK t-shirt and a pair of trainers.

 

After lunch and another stroll around the magnificent square we made our way back to a huge indoor market which is just the other side of our hotel where we did our final shopping before returning to our rooms to get packed. During our walk to the indoor market we met Lesley who was limping. Rather sheepishly she explained that having survived the Inca Trail unscaved the temptation to dance the Salsa in a bar with the locals was just irresistible (how could she possibly resist the offer to do the Salsa with a South American whilst in a South American country?) however in doing so she twisted her knee and damaged her ligaments!

 

The evening consisted of pre dinner cocktails and a celebration dinner, we sang a song “Show me the way to Machu Picchu” to the tune of “Show me the way to Amarillo”, this might sound a bit corny but believe me there were a few wet eyes in the room when the song was being sung. We all bought an Inca Trail t-shirt and we were then given a Macmillan t-shirt embossed with details of the trek we had undertaken.

 

At around midnight once again there were those who still wanted to party on and those who wanted to return to the hotel. Initially after thinking that I wanted to party on, I decided that as I had to be up at 4.30am the following morning I really was getting too old for this type of thing. By the time I had decided to leave, everyone who was returning to the hotel had already left so I decided to walk back to the hotel by myself. I took a slow walk into Plaza de Armas and an even slower walk around Plaza de Armas taking in the sights and smells of this wonderful colonial Spanish square. II didn’t want to leave the square as I knew as soon as I started walking down Av el Sol towards the hotel this great adventure would be coming to an end, but I couldn’t walk around the square forever and eventually I started my slow walk down the Av el Sol towards the hotel, and as I knocked on the door and the night porter let me in I knew that was it, the adventure that I had been looking forward to and training for, for many months was over. However the memories will last forever.

 

With such a large group of people, there was over forty of us, you are not going to get to know everyone, but having said that when anyone of us on the trek had been in need of help someone would have been there to give it. Obviously my “buddies” Janet, Christine and Gary were very special to me, first of all Janet as she actually came up to me and started talking to me at the Info Day and started off the conversation “how is your wife?” she had obviously looked at my website and recognised me from the photo. When you are in a large room with lots of people who you don’t know it’s really great when someone comes up and starts talking to you. Between the Info Day and the beginning of the trek Janet and I had swapped a couple of emails, neither of us had done quite as much training as we thought we should have done but in the end we both got through. Obviously having met Janet at the Info Day when I went to the airport I was looking out for her to see how the remainder of her training had gone on, and the fact that she was talking to Gary was nothing short of great.

 

Gary is still an active outdoor person, loves his mountain biking and camping, and was the youngest one of our party, aged 30 (I told him I have got a daughter older than him!) however he was a great person to be sharing a tent with as with his current experience of camping (the last time I went camping was over 30 years ago and things have changed a lot since then) it was great to have Gary there telling me what I needed to do. And then there was Christine, Christine was great company having helped me particularly during the first day of the trek when I realised that I could probably walk faster than I first imagined. Christine is also one of the few people who can truly say “I understand” when I am talking about Hazel.

 

I don’t really know how much Janet, Christine and Gary got out of the trek but I really hope they got as much as I did, or even more, they deserve to, they were great company.

 

Anyway, enough of the soft sentimental stuff it’s time to go off to bed, I’ve got to be up at 4.30 in the morning!

 

 

Days 9 and 10 – Sunday 27^th and Monday 28^th May 2007 Cusco – Heathrow

 

I don’t know what time Gary got in Sunday morning as once again I had let myself in and returned the key to reception, all I do know is that Gary had some Peruvian Sol he was trying to get rid of and went to the Casino next to the hotel on his way back and ended up winning the jackpot, so he ended up with more Peruvian Sol than he started with! You aren’t allowed to take Peruvian Sol out of the country but luckily Gary was able to sell these on to somebody else who was taking part in the Rainforest Extension and not immediately returning to the UK.

 

I don’t think Gary had been in bed too long when we got our alarm call at 4.30am but all I can say is that he skipped breakfast (again).

 

After saying goodbye to those in the party who were staying on for the Rainforest Extension it was onto the buses and off to Cusco Airport for our flight to Heathrow via Lima, Guayaquil and Madrid. After 24 hours of travelling it was 11.15am Monday morning and we were arriving at a damp cold Heathrow Airport.

 

Ralph was there waiting to meet and greet Janet, Chris was there waiting to meet and greet Christine, Wendy was there waiting to meet and greet Gary and my two daughters, Nici and Verity together with my grandson Robbie were there with their placards welcoming me. It was great to meet Ralph, Chris and Wendy, of whom I had heard so much about over the past ten days.

 

The question I don’t have the answer to is, how long was it before Wendy made Gary shave off ten days growth? I don’t think it lasted beyond Wednesday!

 

The trek enabled me to raise £4,093.76 for Macmillan Cancer Relief and £3,209.19 for Myeloma UK, and I would like to thank the following:

 

All my sponsors, too numerous to mention.

 

Macmillan Cancer Relief for organising the trek and allowing me to divide my sponsorship between their charity and Myeloma UK

 

SAS Travel – Greg, Cambers, Mark and all the guides were nothing short of fantastic and made sure no harm came to us.

 

The doctors – Siobhan and Dan, fortunately I didn’t need their help but it was comforting to know that they were there if needed.

 

The cooks – The quality and standard of the food they produced for us three times a day was nothing short of miraculous, how on earth they prepared such wonderful food with the limited facilities they had to work with and the fact that they had to carry all of the provisions along the Inca Trail I will never know.

 

And finally the cheskies – initially we called them porters but this is disrespectful in Peru, the word cheskie means runner and is the name by which they wanted to be known. They were responsible for carrying all of our equipment, with each cheskie carrying up to 25 kilos. We found it hard enough walking along the Inca Trail with a relatively light rucksack and to watch the cheskies run past us carrying 25 kilos, often only wearing sandals, was astonishing.