Monument Ridge Gully In reality, Monument Ridge Gully’ belongs no neither The

Shady nor The Sunny Side as in serves as the dividing line henween these two cliffs. For

the sake of simplicity I have included in in The Sunny Side.

MONIMENT RIDGE GULLY — Ott the northern sideof the nurningeirele opposite the Mn. York Natural History Mu sin is a stone wall with an archway in the centre of in. Walk through the archway’ remembering no drop a few coins into The Explorers Wishing Chair On your rightl. Follow the tourist path dow’n Monument Ridge passing an obelisk, a brass dial, signs etc. until you reach the end of a concrete path. There is a four w’ay innenion here. Continue straight ahead for 27m until you reach the base ofa short sen of stairs where the track divides. From the road no here is 1 SOmn. Take the right branch in track. After Sm the track divides again, take the right fork again. Follow’ track SOm down hilt and gully no base of cliff. To your right ufacing salleyt lies The Sunny Side

2. YOWIE GULLY — Follow the same dir nions as for Monument Ridge Gully until you reach the end of the concrete path. Turn right here onto w’ide flat tourist track. Along for 27m until a prominent rock step is reached. Ecave the track here and head diagonally lefiwards for I Sm no a bug log. From log, head straight downhill for SOm no top of gully. Down the gully and leaf strewn slope no base of cliff. The last din involves an easy downclimh.

3. OBSTACLE COURSE GULLY On the northeastern side of the turning circle next no The Three Heads monument us the start of Con’s Road, now a walking track. Stroll dow’n Con’s Road for 70m until a small track branches off left After 20m this track divides. Take the left branch and follow’ in lOin noa cairn of rocks on your right. This us 4m before a big gum root on track. Follow the minor track starting an the cairn down hull and gully. The top part of the gully proper is entered by a short down climb use caunioni on left side facing valleyt. After this keep no the right side ufacing valleyl all the way down especially an the bottom w’here a 4m high chimney has robe down climbed. All up it’s 6flm from the cairn no the base of gully.

4. ECHO GULLY — Follow the same directions for Obstacle Course Gully bun continue straight ahead down Coy’s Road for 28m past The Obstacle Gully’ turnoff till a track branches off left. Along this for 6m nowhere you reach a log. There isa faint track tunction here. Take the right fork and follow track a short distance around no top of gully. Head on down the gully which makes a sharp turn no the left about one third of the way down. The gully now becomes nnore of a steep earth ramp. The first climb reached is Hollow Echo which is 52m from the track lunction an the log. From here no base of gully is JOnn.

5. GILROY’S GULLY — Continue down Con’s Road for JOin past The Echo Gully turnoff no where in divides lsignpoatedl. Take the left branch and continue down path for 65m no where the track divides again. There should be a plaque on a rock on your left here. Take the left branch and after another 24m the track divides yen AGAIN! Take the left branch as usual and follow in for I Sm no where you finally reach the turnoff Ion your left of course). The gully is plainly visible. Down gully for 3dm to base.

6. GALACTIC GULLY — Follow the same directions as for Gllroy’s Gully no the top of the gully. Continue straight ahead past here for 22m until Galactic

Gully is reached on your left immediately after passing thru ‘the tunnel of lust. Down gully dOm no base. Intergalactic Gargle Blaster is ‘in the right facing salleyl about half way down.

7. PREHN’S PASS — An the top of Galactic Gully on the right side facing valleyp is a massive tree. Continue straight ahead behind tree down a pass between the cliffs. After 20m you reach the base of the cliff and the first climbs described in the text.

18

Shady nor The Sunny Side as in serves as the dividing line between these two cliffs. For

the sake of simplicity I have included in in The Sunny Side.

MONIMENT RIDGE GULLY — On the northern sideof the nurningeirele opposite the Mn. York Natural History Mu sin is a stone wall with an archway in the centre of in. Walk through the archway’ remembering no drop a few coins into The Explorers Wishing Chair On your rightl. Follow the tourist path dow’n Monument Ridge passing an obelisk, a brass dial, signs etc. until you reach the end of a concrete path. There is a four w’ay iunction here. Continue straight ahead for 27m until you reach the base ofa short sen of stairs where the track divides. From the road no here is 1 SOrn. Take the right branch in track. After Sm the track divides again, take the right fork again. Follow’ track SOm down hill and gully no base of cliff. To your right facing salleyt lies The Sunny Side

2. YOWIE GULLY — Follow the same dir nions as for Monument Ridge Gully until you reach the end of the concrete path. Turn right here onto w’ide flat tourist track. Along for 27m until a prominent rock step is reached. Leave the track here and head diagonally lefiwards for I Sm no a bug log. From log, head straight downhill for dOm no top of gully. Down the gully and leaf strewn slope no base of cliff. The last din involves an easy downclimh.

3. OBSTACLE COURSE GULLY — On the northeastern side of the turning circle next no The Three Heads monument us the start of Con’s Road, now a walking track. Stroll dow’n Con’s Road for 70m until a small track branches off left After dOm this track divides. Take the left branch and follow’ in lOin noa cairn of rocks on your right. This us 4m before a big gum root on track. Follow the minor track starting an the cairn down hull and gully. The top part of the gully proper is entered by a short down climb use caunioni on left side facing valleyt. After this keep to the right side ifacing valley) all the way down especially at the bottom w’here a 4m high chimney has robe down climbed. All up it’s 60m from the cairn no the base of gully.

4. ECHO GULLY — Follow the same directions for Obstacle Course Gully bun continue straight ahead down Coy’s Road for 28m past The Obstacle Gully’ turnoff till a track branches off left. Along this for 6m nowhere you reach a log. There isa faint track lunction here. Take the right fork and follow track a short distance around to top of gully. Head on down the gully which makes a sharp turn no the left about one third of the way down. The gully now becomes nnore of a steep earth ramp. The first climb reached is Hollow Echo which is 52m from the track lunction an the log. From here no base of gully is dOin.

5. GILROY’S GULLY — Continue down Con’s Road for dOm past The Echo Gully turnoff to where in divides lsignpoatedl. Take the left branch and continue down path for 65m no where the track divides again. There should be a plaque on a rock on your left here. Take the left branch and after another 24m the track divides yet AGAIN! Take the left branch as usual and follow in for I Sm to where you finally reach the turnoff Ion your left of course). The gully is plainly visible. Down gully for 3dm no base.

6. GALACTIC GULLY — Follow the same directions as for Gllroy’s Gully to the top of the gully. Continue straight ahead past here for 22m until Galactic Gully is reached on your left immediately after passing thru ‘the tunnel of luvI. Down gully dOm no base. Intergalactic Gargle Blaster is ‘in the right ifacing salleyl about half way down.

7. PREHN’S PASS — An the top of Galactic Gully on the right side facing valleyi is a massive tree. Continue straight ahead behind tree down a pass between the cliffs. After 20m you reach the base of the cliff and the first climbs described in the text.

18

I, DD~ RO( K GULLY — 1011cm the came directions av for NIu’iniintent Ridge Cualls a few pages backi annul son reach the four way unction an the end of the concrete path Turn left and stroll our toward.s The Eddy Rock and Ituokout The I’ ddy Rock was where E NI C Eddy. The C hue) C omniussuoner of Railways was addressed bs the residents of Nit Victoria on 11th danuary. 1895 Well I’ll be. the thung.s you don’t know Anyway back no reality, drop down into gully on left about 4m before The Iddy Rocki Down the gulls ddm no base

2. G 4RB4G~ GU I (H — Dtrectly opposite the concrete water tank on the western side of the turning circe usa three pronged tree Head dow nhull lot I Ont vvrung slightly rughnwards no a large cairn of rcs2ks din diagonally rugbr us another cairn The track starts lust below here Follow in ‘75m down bill and gulls no base of cliff

3. P1 AXEANDS (,UL[.~ — From the three pronged tree opposite the concrete water rank. walk 90m along ruxad towards Nit N ucroria Directly opposite ycuu on the other side of road ivan old picnic shelter dust off the road Sm lies a walking track Follow in for Sm towards Mn. N ucrorta until a track branches cuff right an a cairn ot rocks Follow track down hillside for 5dm no where the top of the main gully us reached Cio left facing salley t along ledge bm no the left branch of gully Down the gully dbm no base

4, W NT’s~ORTHS GULLY — C onnunue along track next no road nor SOm past the Blasland’s Crulls turnoff A cairn of rocks us reached where a track branches cuff right Another way no locate this spot us no count four white guide posts starring from opposite the old nun picnic shelneri towards Nit Victoria The track starts directly opposite the fourth post Follow the track lOSm down bull and gully no base of cliff

5, L ~ SON’S GULLX — C onnunue along track next no road for SOm past the W ennwornh’s Ciully turnoff until a track branches off right an a cairn of rocks in a large clearing Also note that the start of the track us about lOin before the tutth white guide post from the old nun picnic shelter Follow the track for 17m no the back of the clearing where in forks Take the left fork and 7m further on a large cairn us reached Follow track down hull and gully for 85m no base of cliff The last Ym unsolses an easy downclumb treacherous in the weni.

6, COLLITS CRENASSE — Continue along track next no road for about dldClm past the I awson’s Cully turnoff. A cairn of rocks and a track branching off right us reached This us din before a tree with a red and whine walking track symbol on in Follow track down hillside for 75m until in leads you no the edge or the cliff Collins C resasse starts no your left facing the valley I. Deop down bole behind large chocksnone then follow gully down for lOin Scramble down right lacing valley i 3m onto ledge. Along ledge din then carefully down climb bin hugh juggy wall no base of cliff

B4RDENS GULLY — Continue along track next no road for about dOOm past C ollur’s Crevasse turnoff no where you reach Barden’s Lookout and parking area About I Om before reaching the parking area an Burden’s there is a small cairn of rocks Head down the hillside here and unto the gully. You soon reach a track which leads you down through the ferns no the base of gully Of ₅ourse. if sou intend going down Barden’s Ciully then the most sensible thing ci do us to drive here rather than walk the bOOm from the turning circle The same gocs tor C ollun’s C resas.se If you intend going down there. drive no harden s lookout and walk back

I, DD~ RO( K GI. ELY — Follow the came durecnuonv as for Niumnuintent Ridge Cualls a few pages backi until von reach the four way unction an the end of the concrete path Turn left and stroll our toward.s The Eddy Rock and liucikout The I’ ddy Rock was where E NI C Eddy. The C bud C omnuussuoner of Railways was addressed bs the residents of Nit Victoria on 11th danuary. 1895 Well I’ll be. the nhungu you don’t know .Anyway back no reality, drop down into gully on left about 4m before The Iddy Rocki Down the gulls d5m to base

2, G 4RB4G~ GI. [ (H — Dtrectls opposite the concrete water tank on the western side of the turning circe usa three pronged tree Head dow nhull lot I Ont ocring slightly rughnwards no a large cairn of rocks din diagonally rugbr us another cairn The track starts lust below here Follow in ‘75m down bill and gully to base of cliff

3, P1 AXEANDS GLLI.~ — From the three pronged tree opposite the concrete water rank. walk 90m along rurad towards Nit N ucroria Directly opposite ycuu on the other side of road us an old picnic shelter dust off the road Sm lies a walking track Follow in for Sm towards Mn. N ucrorta until a track branches cuff right an a cairn ot rocks Follow track down hillside for 5dm no where the top of the main gully us reached Cio left facing valley I along ledge bm no the left branch of gully Down the gully d9m no base

4, W NT~4ORTHS GI. LEY — C onnunue along track next no road nor scm past the Blasland’s Ciulls turnoff A cairn of rocks us reached where a track branches cuff right Another way no locate this spot us no count four white guide posts starring from opposite the old nun picnic shelneri towards Nit Victoria The track starts directly opposite the fourth post Follow the track lOSm down bull and gully no base of cliff

5, L 4N~ SON’S GULEX — C onnunue along track next no road for SOm past the W ennwornh’s Ciully turnoff until a track branches off right an a cairn of rocks in a large clearing Also note that the start of the track us about lOin before the tutth white guide post from the old nun picnic shelter Follow the track for 17m to the back of the clearing where in forks Take the left fork and 7m further on a large cairn us reached Follow track down hull and gully for 85m no base of cliff The last ‘lm unsolses an easy downclumb treacherous in the weni.

6, COLLIT’S CREVASSE — Continue along track next no road for about dldClm past the I awyon’s Cully turnoff. A cairn of rocks and a track branching off right us reached This us din before a tree with a red and whine walking track symbol on in Follow track down hillside for 75m until in leads you no the edge or the cliff C ollun’s C revasse starts no your left facing the valley I. Deop down bole behind large chocksnone then follow gully down for lOin Scramble down right lacing valley i 3m onto ledge. Along ledge din then carefully down climb bm hugh juggy wall no base of cliff

B4RDEN’S GULLY — Continue along track next no road for about dOOm past C ollur’s Crevasse turnoff no where you reach Barden’s Lookout and parking area About I Om before reaching the parking area an Burden’s there is a small caurn of rocks Head down the hillside here and unto the gully. You soon reach a track which leads you down through the ferns no the base of gully Of ourse. if sou intend going down Barden’s Ciully then the most sensible thing to do us to drive here rather than walk the bOOm from the turning circle The same gocs tor C ollun’s C resas.se If you intend going down there, drive no harden s Lookout and walk back

A popular little test piece with awell protected crux.

Starr The wall Sm left of Prehn’s Pass.

dom Climb the wall past uwus bolts no a horicontal break. Traser. right and up iii ityp

Ant Prebn. dtuhn Sm(mothy. Winter 19811

duim C p wall past wilt crust no ledge. C’ontinue up wall no another bolt, move slightly tight and up. ‘An unprotected finish on roundish suspect rock.

Ant Ptebn. Rod Yuuung db 80

I 4t.lni Easily up the arere roan obvious tracer, line. Tracer’ horiLonnally’ right serums wall to a cave on the arere, Cdun of this and up the wall right of the arene lvi tip Ycuu’re now on top of a large block. To get off dow’nclimb the large gum tree on the south west corner.

Rind A viung. Ann Prehn IS 8.8(1

I Stunt Hard moves lead diagonally right up flakes small w’ires for pronecniont to a Stilt at Sm Nlove up no horiconnal break then tinner right tin to a cop. Up scutmup to be large rotten case tin Clibberish. Traser. right and up the sandy’ wail as Stir Ciubbenush. Descend tree as for Cub rish.

Ant Prebn. RixI Young IS b.80

Plum Climb the wall past uwus bolts no a horuconnal break. Traser. right and up

iii ityp

Ant Prebn. dtuhn Smtmothy. Winter 188ff

Pium C p wall past wilt cmxi no ledge. C’ontinue up wall no another bolt, move slightly tight and up. .‘An unprotected finish on roundish suspect rock.

Ant Prebn. Rod Yuuung Pb 88

I 4t.fni Easily up the arere roan obvious traver. line. Traver’ horiLonnally’ right acniuss wall to a cave on the arere. Cdun of this and up the wall right of the arene lvi tip Ycuu’re now on top of a large block. To get off dow’nclimb the large gum tree on the south west corner.

Rind A viung. Ann Prehn 15 8.8(1

I Stunt Hard nuoves lead diagonally right up flakes small w’ires for pronecnion to a Stilt at Sm Nlove up no horiconnal break then tinner right tin to a cop. Up sciuvup to the large rotten case tin Clibberush. Traser. right and up the sandy’ wail as Stir Ciubbenush. Descend tree as for Cub rish.

Ant Prehn. RixI Young IS b.80

Starr On the overhanging wall 1Pm up the gully on the left hand side facing cliffi. I PSm Hard moves up short wall past bolt no boriionnal break complete w’ith

hurls nesti C p 3m to another bolt thence carefully up the sandy, rounded wall to top Descend tree as ftrr Ciubberush.

Nial Cirey and friends 1881

Starr The arene on the right side facing cluffi vuf Galactic Ciully unit’s base. Also 40m right of Jargon

I PSin Ramble up the pleasant arene surmounting an overhang an the top. Bill Blunt. Joe Lurrunee Winner 1874

Starr Au a bottomles.s corner I in right of Flap.

I P8m Pull up into corner than trend diagonally lefnwards no arene. Onwards up urine to top.

Bill Blunt. Ross Vining Winner 1974

Starr. As for Snap

I 30m Lp corner no ritof then follow’ the steep lefnw’ard leading groove until in rers our. Continue up the mossy wall no top.

Ross A unung. Bill Blunt. Warwick Williams, Lyn Thom n Winner ‘74

Starr: As for Snap and Crackle.

I. JOin Pull up into corner as for Snap and Crackle then trend diagonally

rugbnwards no small ledge. Up the mossy, juggy wall no top.

Joe Corenez. Nir Thornton Winner ‘74

I. 1Pm Up small corner no overhang. Pall awkwardly around and up a short corner no top.

Harry Lusford, W’arw’ick Williams August ‘78

base. None that the starr us marked AC

1 3m L’p the bin long overhung crack C’vunuunuuc up the earth autul garbage fulleul gully no tree anchor.

P. PPm Traver right nonoseand uparerervutiup Nluchexl’susuuteatid sruuuecuuuuuu Warwick Williams. Harry Lusford Juls ‘n₁₅

Starr: On the wall Pm right of Lucle Tom.

Warwick Baird, Ciiles ‘Rufus’ Bradbury 1 8811

Starr: On a block an an overhang lOin right uth Sensible Shoes

I. JOin Heave up onto the cram d little slab. Quickly sv’atutper acriuss cit ii ledge. Step up and traverse acros.s left nut arene p ccc arene ii Ross Vinung i cond unable no follunts i Winner "‘4

Starr: As for Red Robin.

1. PSin Pull up and shuffle acros.s no ledge as fur Red Ruibun I a hut lake itt start then continue fairly well straight up the wall ii nip

Ross Nining second too pumped no funllow i W inter "'4

Start: On wall 4m right of Aunny Jack.

I. PSin Up no bolt an 4m then hard moves nun another built lxi higher Directly tutu wall bin no another bolt then continue up wall trending slightly lefuwunuls at top.’

Ralph Weigand. Steve Knight Early ‘bP

Start: The corner 3m right of Disloinned

I. PSin Layback or grovel up the off width cornet vi chununey abutun I (hunt uu~u I w’ide chimney no roof. Niove oar around block and up ii top Warwick Williams, Lyn Thompson. Bull Blunt. Ros.s Vunung Wittner "'4

Start: As for Peppercorner.

I. 40m Up Peppercorner no traser. linear aSian tune third height 1 raverse I Pitt across wall no arene. Finish up the arene as for Red Rvubun

Ross Vining, Bill Blunt Winner ‘74

Start: The blunt arene 4m right of Pepercorner

1. JOin Hard moves no starr then easier no ledge about bin up. C’unnunue tip arene

finihing on either left or ngh~ side. On to ledge belov bJock, raver righi and up.

~ bu mossy

SOm lip a ries of little flakes then tra~er~e left to join Vi rete~ Corninue up \iparete but keeping on the right side all the way

Ant Prehn. (iraham Hill. John Muir \~ inter 80

25m Wander up he green Io~ angle ~aJI just left of some flakes to a boJi. Now hard mo~e~ up the imposible kxking vail to a ~rnaIi roof. Pull over, clip a bolt and up

Stexe Knight. Ralph Weig2nd. John Smoothx 6.382

Starr V~ ide and eas\ angled corner 2rn ight of Law and Disorder.

3Gm Ea~I1\ to roof. ~ing out and around ii and up the steep corner above. Joe Lorine,. Warwick Williams. Bill Blunt. Winter ‘74

I 30m Up Om to horiiontal break. N1o~e left and up the wall (friend runners in horizonial hreak~ to boW lip to another bolt ~m h’gher A very difficult move follows then continue ~~raight up ~a~1 past another bolt to top.

Ralph Weigand. John SrnoothN. Ste~e Knight. Early 82

I 30m Up the bcauriful flaKe and the ~aII above to top.

Ross \irnng. Warwick Williams, Joe Lorinez, Winter ‘74

1. 30m lip wall to bolt. Onto ledge above and continue up mossy wall to top. Ross Vining. Bill BIurn. Warwick Williams. Winter ‘74

finihing on either left or ngh~ side. On to ledge belov bJock, raver righi and up.

~ bu mossy

SOm lip a ries of little flakes then tra~er~e left to join Vi rete~ Corninue up \iparete but keeping on the right side all the way

Ant Prehn. (iraham Hill. John Muir \~ inter 80

25m Wander up he green Io~ angle ~aJI just left of some flakes to a boJi. Now hard mo~e~ up the imposible kxking vail to a ~rnaIi roof. Pull over, clip a bolt and up

Stexe Knight. Ralph Weig2nd. John Smoothx 6.382

A pleasant climb indeed.

Starr V~ ide and eas\ angled corner 2rn ight of Law and Disorder.

3Gm Ea~I1\ to roof. ~ing out and around ii and up the steep corner above. Joe Lorine,. Warwick Williams. Bill Blunt. Winter ‘74

Sian The flake 3m righi of Lishenhak.

I 30m Up Om to horiiontal break. N1o~e left and up the wall (friend runners in horizonial hreak~ to boW lip to another bolt ~m h’gher A very difficult move

follows then continue ~~raight up ~a~1 past another bolt to top. Ralph Weigand. John SmoothN. Ste~e Knight. Early 82

Ross \irnng. Warwick Williams, Joe Lorinez, Winter ‘74

1. 30m lip wall to bolt. Onto ledge above and continue up mossy wall to top. Ross Vining. Bill BIurn. Warwick Williams. Winter ‘74

1. 30m lip a cheminee.

I (din Boulder up no bolt an 4m. The first ascensionusts fined a half inch nape loop on the bolt so that in could be clipped from a lower position. The nape is now’ faded and unsafe Best no take a cigarette lighter or pen knife no remove in. Hard misses past bolt no horvuonnal break. Connunue up the wall above until rotten sandy rock us reached lust below the top Traverse off left.

W ill Nloon. Bruce C ameron, 1980 sometime

Start On the wall 3 fin right of C row

I P3m C p right no the flake and onto in C’onnnnue up the wall no a big ledge. Now move up and right onto the arene of the overhang. On up the arene no top.

Rod A oung. Ann Prehn, Cirahame Hill, 8 8 80

Starr On wall 9m right 01 Paragon.

I POm Pretty much up the middle of wall

Ann Prehn. Rod Young. Kevin Brown, lb 8 80

Starr POin right of the scramble up track no Ichabod Ichabod, Crow etc. Start lOin above the track on a black slab.

I 4Gm Blunder up as you will nakung the easiest line of resistance (not that you meet machi Try and avoid ledges and terraces where possible.

Allan Nunley. Joe lorinee, Winner’ 74

Nonhung no rave about.

Starr P7m diagonally up right from Holy C anfish Start below a groove near the top of the earth ramp. This climb is the lurtherest one up Echo Gully.

I Sm Lp groove ramp past an interesting little cave no ledge. Across right to tree anchor

Starr The thin corner bin right of Hollow’ Echo. I lhmLpcornerionop.

Bill Blunt, Joe Lorinez, Winner ‘74

I. POm Up no ledge then continue up arene past built runner ii tip Andrew Penney, John Smooths, PP 10 8P

I. POm Up wall past bolt no groove Onward.s up grexuve nun niup ihe inst lea moves requnre some thought. thereafter it’s easy

John Smoonhy Back rope soloi. 8 1179

Starr: bin right of and below the block an the base of Resonance

I. PSin Across rught no groove. Some thin moves lead up past a bunli then cuuntunuuuc up wall and crack above no top

John Smoonhy. Andrew Penney, PP 10 79

Start: The obvious corner 1Pm right of Ablutions an the base of Fehun Culls ‘Alsut in 35m right of Staircase if walking along the base from that durecnutun

I JOin Bridge, lamb and layback up the fine corner

Bill Blunt, Joe Lornnez, Winter ‘74

Starr: On the orange scooped wall 4m right of Oninuary

I JOin Up scooped wail no roof, step left and up onto small ledge Traverse back right no arene thence up unto top. keeping mainly on the right side

Mike Law, Andrew Penney, John Smoonhy, 15 P 78

Scare: 4m right of Oblivion. Scramble bin up onto ledge and belay (tree anchorn I. lOin Across left and up no bolt take a hero loop un sticks our quite a waysh

Hard moves up lefnwards no loin Oblivion on arene C onnunue up f)blusuon nun top.

‘Big’ Mal Grey and friends, Early ‘OP

Start: 8m right of the serainhle up route no Ohlnvuon Varuent Starr Scramble up nunno ledge and start in the obvious corner.

1. PSin Up corner no top

Bill Blunt, Joe Lonnez, Winter ‘74

Stare: 8m right of Refusal. Scramble 8m up no corner

I. 25m Up coiner, swing past trees, into rubbish filled gully and up Bill Blunt, Joe Lorinee, Winter ‘74

Thn. 1, p cras,k tin right wall nut ledge I tulluiw the loose crack flake rugbnwards artist nbc wall past uwut large livuse hliuckv The second one us monsierous and siC’, in putoible iii avutud ((nnuu ledge then up wall on right or rhegulls nun left. Tree an Thur

liv I mend Keith Bell Pb ~4 tube leader used one rest bun the second c in crated

tin 1. se ,u cairn ii start tither’ diii bern tuillow the line If son get lost then tuna deserve w haicuer late betalls seuti An mud height there us an excellent small edec uncle tutu ant cuer sit duiwn ‘The hardest invites are near the 3rd bolt ard ar the tent lut₁i where sum cant either traverse left and up or go straight up There are Ii butlis alnuigenber all with lived bangers bar one

Andrew lid net Jutbun Snuuvunbu (Kiunber. ‘Pb

ill’ p 1 shubunutunn Wall nun the ninth built I cave the comfort cif this bolt ladder cC I sinnninnuue straight up wall past a huiruetunnual break and a bolt no top

lie e’ Rttbvrnsntti. Steve Knight. 1’ n

stun C p 1 shubunutyn nut the ninth built then up the obvious brushed groove no nip There is a bolt runner ^tni belcuw the top

I Pun 1.. p nbc tricky little wall no a slight horizontal weakness The Age of Reasoun traverses right beret C onnunue up a few more moves no a bolt, your tilsi runner C cunnunue up wall past another bolt and a couple of poor friend piacennerns lit t~un I shubunuon Wall attn’s half height resting ledge

Ralph Sin cigaind lucre (ureenwell, P4 ‘ 87

I. 30m Lp the thin little wall no a slight horizontal weakness ‘A desperate traverse right leads no a better break on the edge of the wall amnd the first protection possible. L^tp no another break, friend runners Beuuilder the blank wall ucruxi then a move or two left no another break friend placennenni [‘aster climbing about grade 191 now leads straight up no top This last section us poorly protected bun a dubious slung runner iv postible apparently

Warwick Baird seconds unable no followi. April ‘80

I. JOin Lp the left side of the case no the horizontal break urn 1 he ‘Age tnT Reasunn

Lp the Age of Reason no the next break then traverse right nun twin builts

Continue above these no next break wire placemennsu therm on nun anruunher built

Now up and left no flake Lp again passing another bunln nun cup

Ralph Wengand unsecondedi. 31 8P

looks

1. JOin Lp the case and groove

Bill Blunt, Joe Lonunee, Winter ‘74

Starr: As for Ferny Groove.

I. Ibm Lp Ferny Groove to belay 3m above the root

P. 30m Traverse left along the line of holds no the horizontal break abunve the crux of The Age Of Reason Continue left cmxi no another slot, nitwit Iruend runners Up a move or two then keeping going left ucnmissung [shubinunmn Walli and down a little no the arete Belay off bolt anchor duiwn a little on the elm side of arene

3. Ibm Easily no top

Pete Greenwell, Ralph Weigand, July. ‘8P

A itt cli wards traverse leads no a ledge and a poor bolt runner. Soft s’ u. rurr7c mcii acnuuss slab to arene udesperanen Carefully up the rounded at’ wa is ‘tutu rtv.k trending across rughnwards to finish

flu’, A mu tue Hull Blunt. Winner ‘74

,uiisi ills up the yellow overhanging corner no top Better than in looks. it It ,~ut A ,urw uck Williams. Winner ‘74

H us’ S rut yr (uctunec liarriscun. Winner ‘74

in’ wa. ii right on ‘tank ‘ta [)oodle

A ‘ us~ ‘ight and up nun bolt runner. Hard move then continue the rising ‘,uu"rsc riglriw,urd.s nut easy ground Blunder up jug ridden wall to top. ~ ut’w t ‘A ulluanus. Russ A unung. Nit Wilson. Winner ‘74

,hininev cuinnaunung I chocksnones and a large rusty bucker 27m right of P .~, I stir

is A p tue chimney

la , Mart Hill Blunt. W inner ‘74

iris ‘strutli up gully unto chimney Up you go.

H Hiurt Mr Thornton, Mr Thompson, Winter ‘74

Si’ Huird sulved the puz,zle.

A itt is chimney I ⁷m right of Nutmeg.

it"’ Thrash up the tight st.~ueeze chimney’ no ledge on left. Double bolt

Ant ck Baird. Dave Wagland, 1981

mu a .u 4 ‘r right mit Feints (moose and dOm right of Obstacle Course Ciully.

A ‘u’ut yr cli wards traverse leads no a ledge and a poor bolt runner. Soft s’ u. uurr7c menu acntuss slab to arene udesperanen Carefully up the rounded at’ ta ii ‘tilt rtv.k trending across rughnwards no finish

B r~ A mu mug Hill Blunt. Winner ‘74

It’ ~mu eml~mw c"nmier.2m rtghtofTDl’ASPF’

aruri mdv up the yellow overhanging corner no top Better than in looks. it It rut Vu aiw ick Williams. Winner ‘74

‘measat ‘ rumble

in’ wa. ii ruglin at ‘tank Au [)oodle

A ‘ us’ ‘ught and up nun bolt runner. Hard move then continue the rising ‘anise rmglutward.s mum easy ground Blunder up jug ridden wall no top.

usa ..u. ‘A ulluanus. Russ S unung. Nit Wilson. Winner ‘74

up ( p tue chimney

la , Slara Bull Blunt. W inner ‘74

7 is’ ‘strIm up gully unto chimney Lp you go.

H Blunt Sir Thornton. Mr Thompson, Winter ‘74

Si’ Humid sulved the puzzle.

A rru P chimney I ⁷m right of Nutmeg.

mu"’ Thrash up the tight stineeze chimney’ no ledge on left. Double bolt

,ruuy Step up no offwudnh roof. Lean our, clip a bolt and muscle our

A .tu’t ck Baird. Dave Wagland, 1981

Start .A crack Sin right nuf Nothing.

Rod Young, Ann Prehn, 21 .9.80

Seurr:The arene 7m right of Master Plan.

Snurn:ln Monument Ridge Gully’ 7m right of Marooned

I .7m lip crack no summit

Nothing no rave about.

Smart: An a left facing corner with a wide crack in in 80m right of Monument Ridge Gully. The climb lies on the first real compact section of cliff after a long stretch of broken scrappy cliffs.

I. 20m lip corner no top. The top part of the pitch is rather mossy. First recorded ascent, Andrew Penney isolol, 9.10.82

Start .A crack Sm right of Nothing.

.S’turt:29nn right of Pa r Tiger on wall 2. Sm left of a rounded arene.

I 4dm lip the wall past a bunln no a cave. This enuon is about 19. Walk left no

First recorded ascent. Russell Taylor usolom, Lane 70’s

Seurr:The arene 7m right of Master Plan.

Snurn:ln Monument Ridge Gully’ 7m right of Marooned

Smart: An a left facing corner with a wide crack in in 80m right of Monument Ridge Gully. The climb lies on the first real compact section of cliff after a long stretch of broken scrappy cliffs.

I. 2dm lip corner no top. The top part of the pitch is rather mossy. First recorded ascent, Andrew Penney solon, 9.10.82

Smart: .A short rnghnward leading corner with orange rock an the base 24m right of Fasy Corner.

I. I Sm Lasily up corner no sudden steepening. Swing on up then easily’ no top trending left.

Russell Taylor. 16.1174

Starr: 38m right of Short ‘n’ Sweet and 25m right of Lddy Rock Gully’. Starr an wide

easy chimney narrowing an a roof 8m up.

I. I Sm lip chimney with a dirty exit an top. Take large tubes for protection.

First recorded ascent, Andrew Penney Solop, 6.8.82

Start: 72m right of Silly Chimney below a dominating orange and grey head wall high up. The climb starts 25m directly above you in the middle of this headwall. Scramble up through broken rock and easy chimneys no reach the start.

I I Sm lip the overhung groove past two bolts. A friend in break is possible after the 2nd bolt.

Ralph Wengand, Mal Grey, Geoff Robertson, June ‘82

Start’ 20m right of the scramble up route no Rotating Toothbrush. The climb starts an a rightinard leading thin crack on a grey and orange wall lOin uphill from the track.

I. 20m lip the crack then reach left no a good horizontal. Move left Jin then up the overhanging dubious rock t a peg and bolt near top.

Rod Young, Ann Prehn, Mark Burton, 11.10.79

Starr: tin right of On The Loose.

I. 2Gm lip the fine curving corner.

Rod Young, Ann Prehn, Mark Burton, 23.10.80

I. 20m Climb the right wall of the arene over two bulges past a bolt. Continue up arete no top..

Red Young. Ann Prehn, Mark Burton, 23.10.80

Start: On a pretty orangelgrey wall 24m right of Magpie Innocence and 8m right of Garbage Gulch.

42

Smart: .A short rnghnward leading corner with orange rock an the base 24m right of Fasy Corner.

I. I Sm Fasily up corner no sudden steepening. Swing on up then easily’ no top trending left.

Russell Taylor. 16.1174

Start: J8m right of Short ‘n’ Sweet and 25m right of Lddy Rock Gully’. Starr an wide easy chimney narrowing an a roof 8m up.

I. I Sm lip chimney with a dirty exit an top. Take large tubes for protection. First recorded ascent, Andrew Penney Solop, 6.8.82

Start: 72m right of Silly Chimney below a dominating orange and grey head wall high up. The climb starts 25m directly above you in the middle of this headwall. Scramble up through broken rock and easy chimneys no reach the start.

I I Sm lip the overhung groove past two bolts. A friend in break is possible after the 2nd bolt.

Ralph Wengand, Mal Grey, Geoff Robertson, June ‘82

Start’ 20m right of the scramble up route no Rotating Toothbrush. The climb starts an a rightinard leading thin crack on a grey and orange wall lOin uphill from the track.

I. 20m lip the crack then reach left no a good horizontal. Move left Jin then up the overhanging dubious rock t a peg and bolt near top.

Rod Young, Ann Prehn, Mark Burton, 11.10.79

Starr: tin right of On The Loose.

I. 2Gm lip the fine curving corner.

Rod Young, Ann Prehn, Mark Burton, 23.10.80

I. 20m Climb the right wall of the arene over two bulges past a bolt. Continue up arete no top..

Red Young. Ann Prehn, Mark Burton, 23.10.80

Start: On a pretty orangelgrey wall 24m right of Magpie Innocence and 8m right of Garbage Gulch.

42

I Sm Bridge up tree and wall then mose left and up the centre of the wall past a

bolt Niose left and up past a second bolt no the top

Ann Prehn. Rod Young, Mark Burton, 2510 82

I 20m C p chtmney:corner then seer rnghnwards up shallow corner to tree anchor below large tunnel Walk up nhru ‘tunnel of lux’ no mop.

John Smoonhy. 12982

I 20m C p the flake and finish over right

Ann Prehn, Rod Young. 210 82

I Sm L p cuirner no left, move left and up crack no top

John Smoonhy. Terry Bernumt, Scpnember ‘77

Smart Shin right of First Year lint an a block below a small overhang and a short rotten wall The good rock starts about lOin up

I 23m lip the wall via a thin crack and face climbing.

Mark Burton. Rod ‘noung, Scary Cirorn alias Ciarry Sconnn, 24 1080

Start 23m right of Blaxland’s Ciully an a giant low angled corner leading no massive roofs

I 40m lip corner no cave below roof. Traverse right across slab around roof and up to top

John Bishop. Jan Aalders, Shenun Nan der Slays, Winner "‘4

I 40m lip 4m onto ledge and starr of crack Follow lefnw’ard leading crack up no roof or leave the crack half way and doodle up slab. Continue easily no top as for Nennurn

Brian Ratter, Chris Peisker, Winter ‘74

Smart’ Below a short grey corner 48m right of Peeceezy Scramble up onto ledge an base of corner

25m lip the main corner above.

Johnny Croker, Brian Ranter, 14.7.74

I. 40m lip wall no horizontal, move right and up the overhung orange wall passing 4 bolts.

Ann Prehn, Red Young. 3.10.82

I Sm Bridge up tree and wall then move left and up the centre of the wall past a

bolt Niove left and up past a second bolt no the top

Ann Prehn. Rod Young, Mark Burton, 2510 82

I 20m C p chumney:corner then veer rnghnwards up shallow corner to tree anchor below large tunnel Walk up bra ‘tunnel of lax’ no mop.

John Smoonhy. 12982

I 20m C p the flake and finish over right

Ann Prehn, Rod Young. 210 82

I Sm C p cuirner no left, move left and up crack no top

John Smoonhy. Terry Bernumn, Scpnember ‘77

Smart Shin right of First Year lint an a block below a small overhang and a short rotten wall The good rock starts about lOin up

I 23m lip the wall via a thin crack and face climbing.

Mark Burton. Rod ‘noung, Scary Cirorn alias Ciarry Sconnn, 24 1080

Smart 23m right of Blaxland’s Ciully an a giant low angled corner leading no massive roofs

I 40m lip corner no cave below roof. Traverse right across slab around roof and up to top

John Bishop. Jan Aalders, Shenun Nan der Slays, Winner "‘4

I 40m lip 4m onto ledge and starr of crack Follow lefnw’ard leading crack up no roof or leave the crack half way and doodle up slab. Continue easily no top as for Nennurn

Brian Ratter, Chris Peisker, Winter ‘74

Start’ Below a short grey corner 48m right of Peeceezy Scramble up onto ledge an base of corner

25m lip the main corner above.

Johnny Croker, Brian Ranter, 14.7.74

I. 40m lip wall no horizontal, move right and up the overhung orange wall passing 4 bolts.

Ann Prehn, Red Young. 3.10.82

p past twuul’xultseumuiigsltglitlv cmi abunvc Ird overlap man about 12mm then "miamcht up l~usun Stilt unnubuir iii imp

Murk ( u umamt la IC uuluuani 2 lii s2

I tim ilium mm In unit ihicit nip rightwards a little past a friend pocket C mit r mm.’ up cuing lsavk slightS lent past twin bolt runnets Bolt anchor on top. \l,utk ( a mat ha ml mmli mann Ci ralnanmme [lull. 2111 82

NIak C mum mart Ii talratiuc lInt ‘ lii h2

I ist mu. it tm.’,l ,usvv’itt Rid ‘t ummnig uSuilmmn. 2 III 12

Star.’ St a ‘teSt m nilmunie nig ₅uiitici dSni right ol [‘rolti.. and 20m right of 5k u.ttti.i. u unit s ii mum

S ,uc ‘~ mmmc stan t Semi mmmvi aids up the vintner u.n top

I rut flu4u m~ lit Salulers Nit A mlsmuni. 3 als ‘~4

— n C p ti c sliumit vuittinit aniul Sent mmmii minimum nbc wall lip no a small ledge near

inc atem.’ net mmemn~l slmexitlm tmebn tilt the wall past a bolt and a ‘one friend’

Rut..’ i ummmne Sm i lurehti 2 lii 52

Start 4uutm rueht ut net C mm [(times an a sbmurn vuirnet Scramble up this onto a large ledge amid amumunher slumuri vinritem vi SivS laces right

C p d’~i’t vui"’iei ui’iin levlge C mmnnmnmue up the main corner no top.

urn (I shut Jam Salder" Shcrinm N an dci Slmmys Juls ‘74

Start As hit Sevinnid ‘I hmmuighmns N~iIii mimi the irvin short vorner of Sceond Thoughts no evIct.’ and betas Start miii wall 2 ⁵nu elm nut u.u.irnet

‘n C I wall trasm twit ‘silts making in uggy muverhang no finish

Nlamk C mum mann Juuhn Snmnsunhi. RatluS W eugand. Paul C oly san, 3.10.82

ledge and belay Start in right of the corner

I 20m lip through bulge past bolt runner then straight up the wall abunve past a second bolt Continue on no top

Niark Colysan, Grahame Hull. Paul Coly van. 4 hO 82

1. 25m lip wall, flake and small corner no roof 2 bolts en round Over small roof and onto wall above 2 more boinsm Continue straight up no top Ralph Wengand, Steve Knight, June ‘82

I. 40m lip the wall past 3 bolts no a small roof Hard move over ru.o.ul inn final built then easily no top

Rod Young, Ann Preha, 22 8 80

Start. A short corner leading no a roof 4m right of Deep Freeze Ignore the misleading graffiti marked must left of climb.

1 JOin lip corner no roof bolt on lefnt Pull over roof and up wall Sni nun built Continue up the thin wall above then more easily no top

Ralph Wengand, Grahame Hull. 310 82

I JOin Swing across roof then follow the righiward diagonal u.orner no top Harry Luxford, Chris Piesker, Mid ‘70s

Start’ Make your way up Lawson’s Gully for 25m or so until you can scramble across no a steep wall on your left facing up gully I Start on a small ledge in the centre of the wall double bolt anchorsi

I 17m lip wall past 4 bolt runners no a double bolt anchor on top Mark Colyv’an, Giles Bradhury, Greg Moore, 231082

Start’ A short groove below a roof with a crack in in 3m right of Lawson’s fiully I 40m lip through the small roof then follow crackline up wall no top

Ann Prehn, Rod Young, 2.10 82

Smart Sm right of Joe the f inn am another short grouse leading no a tool

I ⁵m C p and over root passing a friendli bolt an the lip C p no ledge above and belas Walk off front here

Rod ‘toung. Ann Prehn. 211182

Strenuous groping

I 20m C p no he blocks promecmuumn. nun right and up nbc wall no a ledge Two bolts are passed en route

Ann Prehn. Rod ‘t omung. 22 8 bIt

Sta~t I 20m right on Heros an a giant right angled cunruer I SOm C p nbc corner nil imiurse

John Bishop. Jan Aalders. Nit Wulsmmn. July "4

Some interesting moves

Smart On wall I 2m tight cut Dragons Tmsith I Thus us must no the right oh nbc arene

2. 40m Lp the arere no bulge passing win built thinners Swing over bulge and easily up urine and wall no top

John Smooths. Andrew Penney. 24.111’)

A really excellent wall climb Quite thin in places

I JOin C p the initial wall no small ledge and a bvult C ununmnue up a little higher passing two more bolts Niove up no the arene and belay nun ledge Nut anchors

John Smooths. Steve knight. Ralph Wengand. 3 02

Smart. An crack weakness ⁵m tight oh Samnuvel.

I JOin lip I Sm onto mop of blocks C mmnnunue straight up corner no top John Bishop. Jan Aulders. July ‘74

I 45m lip rughnwards no rampand thin corner lip these no ledge lip wall 4m no a bolt below a sadden steepening of the headwall above Now make your way up the steep and often overhanging headwall past four bolts upossubls fusem. ‘Big’ Nial Curey. John Smooths. NIud 1982

SnarnOn wall 25m right of Nial’s Niega Route.

Starn.’On wall 5m right ₀f Cosmetic.

Sracn:The wall 2m right ₀f Howl.

Start At an arete on he right side of a small gLIlL I 2Gm Tbe eass arene past a bolt to a ledge

small bolds ibree bolts on roniet

Rod ‘toang. Ant Prebn. 4 111.82

Start 35m rigbn of V 2 Scbneider at a sbort chint I 2Gm 1, pto roof. swing over and up wide era

Start On wall Ibm rngbn 01 PIng

I. 4dm Hard moves ap tbe sbort arete thett above. Tbere are 4 bolts as well as natural Rod ‘i oung, Ant Prebn. 3. 111 82

Start On wall 2m rigbt of Rock’n’Roll Suicide

I 40m Hard fingers moves past the lirsi in passing two more bolts

Some trieG moves, bun a bin broken

Start. 2m rigbt of Teenage Wildlife at a short see I 30m lip steepl~ for 8m tben wander up the

Starr. .As for ‘tent lip Yeti I Sm to thin crack ott I 1 2Gm Hard moves past the bolt then ap to at

.A bard start and an exciting tinish

1 3Gm Hard moves up he first wall past twit above on the left passing a bolt runner

Rod ‘noang. .Ant Prehn, 4 1082

Another exciting roof finish

1. 3Gm The overhang start and wall above pay the top of a block at the overhang Pall siren Ann Prehn, Rod Young, 4 10 82

Start: 2m right of Teeny Bopper.

I 25m Swing across roof past bolt runner then up the wall past two bolts no top. Ann Prehn. Red Young 24.10.82

Start: 6m right of Teeny Bopper helow roof

I. 25m Over the roof and up no a balancy move past the first bolt. Lasier climbing up the steep wall above past three more bolts, each just a bit left of the previous one the last one is on a small ledgel.

Red Young. Ant Prehn. Stuart Hickson. 5. 10.82

Start: 8m right of Making Movies an a blocky wall

I 25m Up no the roof over and up the thin crack above. Continue up the wall past two bolts.

Ann Prehn. Red Young Stuart Hickson. 5. 10.82

I. 40m Layback and bridge the thin corner past two fixed pegs. Ant Prehn. Red Young. 19.9.82

Start: Wall Sm right of Zowie.

I. 40m Up wall and over roof. Continue up wall no top. There are six bolts in all. Ant Prehn. Red Young 24.9.82

I. 30m Up shorn wall past a bolt harder than in looks) then continue up wall through several small bolges past two more bolts. Towards the top continue directly up the wall with friend and nut runners. Take a good selection of friends and medium hexentries

Start: On wall 3m right of Little Triggers.

I 37m A short flake no the first bolt then continue up the wall past three more bolts A bin run out hetween the last two bolts.

I 25m Swing across roof past bolt runner then up the wall past two bolts no top. Ann Prehn, Red Young, 24.10.82

Start: 6m right of Teeny Bopper helow roof

I. 25m Over the roof and up no a balancy move past the first bolt. Lasier climbing up the steep wall above past three more bolts, each just a bin left of the previous one the last one is on a small ledge).

Red Young. Ann Prehn, Stuart Hickson, 5. 10.82

I 25m Up no the roof, over and up the thin crack above. Continue up the wall past two bolts.

Ann Prehn, Red Young, Stuart Hickson, 5. 10.82

Start: Wall Sm right of Zowie.

I. 30m Up shorn wall past a bolt harder than in looks) then continue up wall through several small bolges past two more bolts. Towards the top continue directly up the wall with friend and nun runners. Take a good selection of friends and medium hexentries

I 35m lip the wall to first bolt then up strenuously past two more bolts. Veer left onto the arete and continue winb easier climbing past final bolt no top.

Sturt:Below an impressive looking roof crack 69m right of Kooks.

3.1Gm Fasy dribble no top.

Joe Friend, Ben Ewald (second avoided crux), 10.3.76

I 35m lip the wall no first bolt then up strenuously past two more bolts. Veer left onto the arene and continue with easier climbing past final bolt no top.

Start:Below an impressive looking roof crack 69m right of Kooks.

Joe Friend, Ben Fwald (second avoided crux), 10.3.76

I 25m lip past 2 fixed pegs in bolt holes no flake. Up the ironstone wall above past 3 bolts Watch out for loose rock

This is approximately SSm right of Silly Chimney. I have non checked the start. 1 2Gm Surmount the oserhanging chimney crack then straight up the corner

I Sm lip the wall and over the bulging overhang. Two bolts en route Take

Nos 2 and 4 friends.

Rod ‘toung. Ann Prehn, 16483

1 Cm lip wall no horizontal then hard moves no roof, passing 3 bolts Bombap ibm roof passing another bolt

Ant Prehn. Rod S oung. 16 4 83

I 3Gm lip the easy stuff nowhere things steepen. Some classy moves lead up past four bolts no top

Ralph Weigand. Grant Clark, 24.1.83

1 2Gm lip no the offw ndnh roof. Find an incun jug running along the inside of the crack then lay hack around roof Continue up corner no top.

1 4Gm lip the wall past a red bolt hanger and over the first roof. Reach right and clip a bolt just over the next roof Hard moves follow no the next bolt, swing wildly left and mantle the final roof past another bolt. Continue up wall passing another bolt or two.

I 25m lip past 2 fixed pegs in bolt holes no flake. lip the ironstone wall above past 3 bolts Watch out for loose rock

This is approximately SSm right of Silly Chimney. I have non checked the start. 1 2Gm Surmount the overhanging chimney crack then straight up the corner

Russell Taylor. Charlie Canhbernson. Tony Nemec. 17.IG 74

I Sm lip the wall and over the bulging overhang. Two bolts en route Take

Nos 2 and 4 friends.

Rod ‘toung. Ann Prehn, 16483

1 Cm lip wall no horizontal then hard moves no roof, passing 3 bolts Bombap thin roof passing another bolt

Ant Prehn. Rod ‘toung. 16 4 83

I 3Gm lip the easy staff nowhere things steepen. Some classy moves lead up past four bolts no top

Ralph Wengand. Grant Clark, 24.1.83

1 2Gm lip no the offw ndnh roof. Find an neat jug running along the inside of the crack then lay hack around roof Continue up corner no top.

Rod Young. Ann Preha, IG.l.83

1 4Gm lip the wall past a red bolt hanger and over the first roof. Reach right and clip a bolt just over the next roof Hard moves follow no the next bolt, swing wildly left and mantle the final roof past another bolt. Continue up wall passing another bolt or two.

Start: Approximately 6m right of Careless Memories.

35m lip just no the right of the line and reach left no a peg. lip past the steep overhang passing two bolts. Continue up the easier wall above with friend and bolt runners.

Rod Young. Ant Prehn, IG.l.83

Start: Approximately SSm right of Scheme of Things.

35m lip the wall, over a bulge on good holds and up past two bolts. Continue up wall t another bolt no top.

Starr: The wall approximately 3m right of Lady Grinning Soul.

25m lip the flaky wall si 4 bolts and a bulge. Pull left soon after the 4th bolt then continue on big steep jugs tO top.

Rod Young. Ann Prehn. Mark Moorhead. 18.1.83

2Gm Easily up wall past bolt no ledge. Mantle and reach next bolt then climb the wall above passing two more bolts.

Rod Young. Ant Prehn. II . 1 .83

Start: approximately 22m right of Hanky Dory.

2Gm lip no the flake and clip a bolt. Hard moves no second bolt then continue up wall past another 6 bolts and a 2 friend. Finish just right of the line on a ledge.

Ann Prehn. Red Young, 12.1.83

Start: Approximately 4m right of linder Pressure.

35m lip easily for 1Gm no a flake, fixed peg. Lip wall past 3 bolts, make a couple of moves right then continue up no a short flake past 2 more bolts. Onwards no top.

Starr: I :m right of Kooks.

I .35m Hard moves up diagonally right past a bolt, lip the closed corner abuse and the final easy wall above.

Start: Approximately 2OOm right of Mind Over Manner on the next set of buttresses just n an ampinheanre.

I. 3Gm lip the short corner a couple of moves then climb the steep jaggy wall ott the right no a ledge. lip the overhang orange wall above inn small holds past two bolts. As in eases climb the last couple of moves an the arcic. Red Young, Ann Preho. 17.1.83

Starr: Approximately 1Gm right of Quick Silver an a corner.

1. 3Gm The short corner crack no the urine then the crack above no the top. Ann Prehn, Rod Young 17183

Start: lindercun arene on the right end of the wall right of Impotent Narcissus 1. 3Gm Scramble up left on no the block. Follow the bolts 3 of themi inn the ruxuf

There is also a cosmetic No. 2 K friend placement en route. Swing right no a nag an the arene on the lip of roof, bolt runner. A reachy minve no hnnrniinnnal hreak then motor up the urine passing another bolt near the nip. Binli and tree anchor.

Giles Bradhury. March 83.

The Nitichells Ridge Picnic Nica is located I SCans north west west of the pub. just ~niuib or the Cirean Western Highway The clittinne lies directly below the various bookois here and rus for about a kilinmenre back inwards the pub The cliff has a south westerly aspect and aces out inner the beautiful Kanimbla N alley below’

Along the top 01 the cliii and tanning antIs pararell no in are The Cirean Western Highway and N titoria Sn Access vs the base nit the cltif is gained an four different pinints and i sccivered in mitre detail inn the tinliviw ing sectivin As fall details of these decceni ninnies arc given iront the pith ci the base cii the cliff in seems unnecessary to repeat them here. thinugh a briet descripinniti on how to reach The Slinchells Ridge Picnic Area o etien belniw

Front the pub drive west alning Ihe (reat Aesierti Highway for l.3kms no the top or S ictoria Pass N ciorna Si is inn sitar lent beret Down the pass for 200m where an on ions unsealec ninad veers ott left Tns isa mop road that takes you aiong the top of the clint past varirnus lovikinuts. nnnnnunnnenns. toilets, picnic shelters. swings etc no return iou no the highuns I he map inn the centre on this guide should help nov a Ion

There are four train ways of getting to the base on the cliff. Two of them follow gullies, one downclnnnbs an easy chimney and the other involves walking in honneonnalls from Mn N nenorna Pass The titan ways are described from West no Last left no right facing the cliffi

I. MT. N IC"I’ORIA PASS — Frinni Fhe Imperial Hinnel drive west along The Great Western Highway Alter I 3 kms you reach the top if Mn. Victoria Pass Victoria street is on sour lent heret Down Nit S nencirna Pass fur 900m passing The Minchells Ridge Picnic Area cnn sour left alien 218.Imn Park on sour left an an obvious saddle There is a small monument here a rough block nil saudvionen with ‘Minchells Pass 1832’ inscribed on in The cliff is snarnrg you in the ace, just across the other side of gulli Tarantula is clearly visible, being the inhi nous big yellow corner capped by roofs on the right end 01 the snewable cliffimne .A short walk across the top of the gully brings you no the start of the cliii

2. TOWN TIP (4 LIX — Follow the above directions until you reach the turnoff no The Mitchells Ridge Ptcnnc Area on sour left Park on your left in front of steel railing about 2dm before sand turnoff Walk through gap in railing and amble down wide path about I Sm or so towards cliffiop Drop down into the gully on your left facing sallesi and wander down into base of clnfl

3. LOFT CHIMNF~ — This is the mann descent route Ion the majority of existing climbs Follow the directions for Nit N nenonna Puss until you reach Victoria Street unsealed’ on your left Along N nenorna Street about 2OOm or so until you reach the third house on your right number 2 hi The house is called "The Loft’. Leave the car and snalk down the western side of the house then head diagonally lefnwards south easni towards two small bun obvious rock peaks an the edge of the cliff From the road no here is only a few hundred metres Carefully downclnmb the Sm high chimney between the two rock peaks Ins non hard ban would be a bin ofa bastard with a pack on ‘nou are now on a small halfway ledge. Slingshot and Hidden C’rack start here. Continue down dirty rock and 3m high mossy chimney no ground

The Ninichells Ridge Picnic Nica islcivaned I SCans north west west of the pub. just sinuth or the Cirean Western Highway The clittinne lies directly below the various bookois here and tins fur absiun a kilnimenre back inwards the pub The cliff has a south westerly aspect and races out inset the beautiful Kanimbla S alley below’

Along the top 01 the cliii and running antIs pararell no in are The (mean Western Highway and S iciorna St Access vi the base nit the clnif is gained an four different pinints and i scinscred in mime detail inn the innllciw ing sectivin As full details of these descent routes arc given trout the pith tin the base cii the cliff in seems unnecessary no repeat them here. ihinugh a bind descripininni on how no reach The Slinchells Ridge Picnic Area is given belniw

Fnisni he pub drive west alning Ihe (rean Aesierti Highway for l.3kms no the top on S iciorna Pass S icinnina Sits inn ycnur lent beret Diuwn the pass for 200m where an onvicius unsealec rinad veers ott left Tns nsa Inop rmnad that takes you aiong the top of the clint past varinnus linvikininis. nnnnnunnnenns. toilets, picnic shelters. swings etc no renuin von no the highway I he map inn the centre on this guide should help you a Ion

There are four train ways of getting to the base on the cliff. Two of them follow gullies, one dowuclinibs an easy chimney and the other involves walking in horizontally from Mn S nenorna Pass The titan ways are described from West no Last left no right facing the cliffi

I. MT. N IC"I’ORIA PASS — Frinni Fhe Imperial Hinnel drive west along The Great Western Highway Amer I 3 kms son reach the top if Mn. Victoria Pass Victoria street iv on sour lent beret Down Nit S nencirna Pass fur 900m passing The Minchells Ridge Picnic Area cnn sour left alter 218.Imn Park on sour left an an obvious saddle There is a small monument here ma rough block nil sandynonen with ‘Minchells Pass 1832’ inscribed on in The cliff is snarnr.g you in the ace, just across the other side of gulli Tarantula is clearly visible, being the nihi nous big yellow corner capped by roofs on the right end 01 the inewable cliffinne .A short walk across the top of the gully brings von no the start of the cliii

2. TOW N TIP (4 LIX — Follow the above directions until you reach the turnoff no The Mitchells Ridge Ptcnnc Area on sour left Park on your left in front of steel railing about 2dm before sand turnoff A alk through gap in railing and amble down wide path about I Sm or so towards cliffiop Drop down into the gully on your left facing valleyt and wauder down into base of clnfl

3. LOFT CHIMNF~ — This is the mann descent route Ion the majority of existing climbs Follow the directions for Nit S nenorna Puss until you reach Victoria Street unsealedi on your left Along S nenorna Street about 2OOm or so until you reach the third house on your right number 2 hi The house is called "The Loft". Leave the car and ivalk down the western side of the house then head diagonally lefnwards south east towards two small bun obvious rock peaks an the edge of the cliff From the road no here is only a few hundred metres Carefully downclnmb the Sm high chimney between the two rock peaks Ins non hard ban would be a bin ofa bastard with a pack on ‘nou are now on a small halfway ledge. Slingshot and Hidden C’rack start here. Continue down dirty rock and 3m high mossy chimney no ground

Start Directly below the lookout an the western end of Minchells Ridge Picnic Area. Follow the directions no the saddle in Mn. Victoria Pass in the Descent Routes and Access Points section The climb is clearly visible from here, being a big sellow corner capped by roofs on the right end of the viewable cliff. Walk right along the base of the cliff about 2Gffm 30Gm no start of climb

1 2Gm Free for ~m then peg crack on angles and leepers Right across wall on bolts then free onto ledge Bolt anchor.

,,m cmvi Traverse slightly right on pegs, up crack past dummy flake no roof then traverse right iv ledge Lp wall to tree anchor

Keith Roy cc~. Rohan Reynolds~ August ‘66

Starr A short scrubby crack on grey wall about 4Gm right (facing cliffi of Town Tip Gully

I Sm L p the short scrubby crack no small ledge You cant actually tell ins a crack bun ferns dont grow out of blank walls C onninue up scrubby corner no roof Traverse left a little and up no top One point of and was used somewhere. presumerably near the start

Harry Lauford. Dave Darmanin, December ‘66

Start Below a 6Gm high scrubby corner which is mostly low angled ban which sneepens near the top. This corner is on the left side of the great black slab visible from the lookouts an Slinchells Ridge. Roughly about I 5Gm right of One Down.

1.2 6Gm Follow the line In does look harder than grade 13 higher up bun then again who knows

Dave Flencher~. ‘A Davenporn~. alt leadvi 1Q68

Starr. Miles no the right of Wanderlings, probably 40Gm 50Gm in fact Start in the right hard corner of a 4m wide square gully which has a proninneni undercut protruding nose on left.

I 2⁵m I ‘p the mossy, dirty corner no ledge

2 2Gm The crack overhangs no start then relents. C onninue up in thrinugh sc nib inn top

C hens Peisker~. Harry Luvford~ alt leadvi 197S

A very fine looking and climb. Would be an excellent free problem which unas nine day

I 25m Peg out over 4m roof Continue pegging up thin crack inn wall abuse lint hm then free a short distance up little corner ci ledge Traverse nill right aIming ledge Take a good selection of kunfeblades, bugabivis and inst arrnnws

T Tierney, Harry Lusford, January ‘69

I Sm Pall up onto dirty ledge Now move up the short cinriner crack abuse mm top.

Harry Lunford. Dave Darmanin, I 97(1

Starr: About lOOm or so right of Loft Chimney ‘A alk right though thick scrub then cross creek below’ small waterfall an the back of an open gully The climb starts below an obvious thin corner on black rock about 3Gm right nil the waterfall I Sm neraul Iipeasily for 6m no base of hard looking corner C nininnue up corner with more difficulty no bush anchors

Harry Lunford. T Tierney, 1966

Starr: About 4Gm right of Tom Thumb below a large roof with thin crack inn in

1. 1Gm Aid across Sm roof then a few free moves up short corner iou ledge

2. 25m Mixed free and aid up orange corner no roof Traverse left under romni tin ledge on nose Continue up wall to top Take a good selection of knifeblades and lost arrow’s.

Harry Lunford, Chris Peisker, 1974

C hens Peisker~, Harry Laxford~ malt leadvI 1975

Zig Zag usa typical middle of the road crag. lacking the brilliance of C osmic C ounny or Nit Piddingion bun nevertheless able no offer a variety of enjoyable climbs in pleasant sarroandingnn Though never swamped by the weekend hoards that plague in’s neighbour no the south. Zig Zag has had a steady stream of visits by various disparate groups and individuals over the past ten sears.

The climbs vary in lengh from 25m no about 7Gm bun most average oat about 3Gm no 4Gm Multi pitch routes are the rule rather than the exception and are often split by fairly large ledges. There are no easy descent routes so either abseil off or follow a good cliff top track back no just past Brass Nionkey where one can scramble down a small gully The waterfall just past Fandoogile an the northern end of the cliff nearly always has running water so if it’s hon

Though ramoured no have been climbed on as long ago as the early I 96G’s the real glory mast go no George Owens who discovered the cliff in 1968 George made a beeline straight for the gullies and easy chimneys. Between April and September than year he climbed ten routes with various partners. None, of what are now considered no be the best and most enjoyable climbs, were touched.

When the New Rock Climbs in the Blue Mountains guide (written by’ George hnmselfn appeared in 1972 the only routes contained in the Zig Zag section were the ten mentioned above plus another that George managed in 1971. A route that was done in March ‘71 called Hey Jude was non included for some strange reason.

Two good though short pinches. The top pinch looks like a mild horror show

Start The corner about 25m right of Phalanx Scramble up no grassy ledge below coiner

C hens Peisker~, Harry Laxford~ malt leadvI 1975

The climbs vary in lengh from 25m no about 7Gm bun most average oat about 3Gm no 4Gm Multi pitch routes are the rule rather than the exception and are often split by fairly large ledges. There are no easy descent routes so either abseil off or follow a good cliff top track back no just past Brass Nionkey where one can scramble down a small gully The waterfall just past Fandoogile an the northern end of the cliff nearly always has running water so if ins hon

Though ramoured no have been climbed on as long ago as the early I 96G’s the real glory mast go no George Owens who discovered the cliff in 1968 George made a beeline straight for the gullies and easy chimneys. Between April and September than year he climbed ten routes with various partners. None, of what are now considered no be the best and most enjoyable climbs, were touched.

When the New Rock Climbs in the Blue Mountains guide (written by’ George hnmselff appeared in 1972 the only routes contained in the Zig Zag section were the ten mentioned above plus another that George managed in 1971. A route that was done in March ‘71 called Hey Jude was non included for some strange reason.

The next ‘big wave’ occured when Harry Lunford arrived on the scene in lane I 972. Between November of that y’ear and April ‘74 he climbed a dozen routes. The best were probably Demeresque led by Keith Belli. Honey Dnp and the Rip. Van, Winkle too

First came C anch the Wind n2fl in September ‘76 bs Chris Peisker. an excellent two pinch dumb up a soaring line In the middle of the following year, Nianhew Dunstan freed Cicorge Owens’ and horror show. Trancendennal Nledinanion (221 A bin of a lull tollowed before Kim C arrigan and Andrew Penney yes thans me climbed the obvious wall right of Tanpan in July ‘78 no produce Toads 23i with it’s thin bouldery start

The last mentioned route was the first of the hard wall climbs, all done in 1979. Law eliminated the and peg on Pacemaker i22n and then pun up two superb climbs, Shakes and Flakes 2 Ii and C heap Dive 2 In Non no be outdone. Penney climbed the blunt nose left of The Mixture no give the now famous nnnfamous^tm Dress Rehearsal Rag I’, This was a one pinch route that finished on the ledge below the roof. Giles Bradhury completed the climb in February this year by climbing this strenuous roof. which he graded 21

Finalls in Denober ‘6G. Rod Young climbed the most outstanding line on the cliff, Bad Moon Rising ‘23n ⁵s a warm up a few months earlier, he did Focal Point n22i, a less than inspiring climb which is also the most lefnhand route on the cliff. Before finishing. in should be mentioned that Harry Lasford bought out an interim guide no Zig Zag ‘also covering Niunchells Ridgen earlier in the sear As I mentioned in the history section of the Slunchells Ridge chapter. in was very brief, though welcome after such a long absence without any type of coverage Fortunately in didni promote a new boom which has made my job a helluva Ion easier

Starr’ A slab below an obvious righnward facing corner. This is 65m left of where you leave the Little Zig Zag track an the two blocks.

I 25m Romp up easy slab no ledge below’ corner. Straight up rotten and mossy looking corner no top

7G George Owens, Kevin Daly, Robert J. Smith, May 68

I 4Gm Wander aimlessly up slab to a ledgc whcrc nbc bnnnnrcss stccpenns C onninue up wall no top Tree anchunt Thrce bums cnn mmmc

Brian Niannuck, George f)wens. April ‘66

I 22m cruxi Lp small overhanging wall inn ledge Mimic lent mmmi ancic bent ni~n and right no base of small crack Three nuts cnn ansI bent easils inn tree diii, (tint inn Rickapoodle

2 22m Lp arene on right no tree anchunt

John Lamb. Cicorge f)wens 17

Starr Square can corner 4m left 01 Rui,kapnnodleArene I 3Gm Up corner and chimney gully abuse

John F W lyon. Cicorge f)wens, April ‘blI

I 4Jm Claw your way up no the break (Kim did it wmnhimun a rope bunt there sun any protection anyway’i. Slove right until you can pull up and stand mini sinnall ledge. Now back left slightly and continue straight up wall and slight weakness no ledge. Move left and loin the last part of Tanpan

Kim Carrigan. Andrew Penney, 22.7.78

1. 1Gm Up short chimney then up right no small ledge and belay belniw nine orange corner (Fer de Lancen

2. 3Gm Icruxl Swing around right no thin crack in grey wall Fuilluiw it inn ledge (take small wires for proneennom. Tricky moves up short overhung huger crack into groove. Continue up this and easy gulls to top This pitch cant be brunkenn by belaying on ledge.

Keith Bell. Ian Thomas, February ‘75

Start: As for Tanpan.

Thu Move left no the end of the ledge and up nbc steep short corner no roof Pull over roof on gisod holds, move left again and up the obvious weakness through roof no top

Joe Friend. Rourk Mublen, Tony Nemec, February ‘76

2 2Gm ucruts Follow the corner up and out left under roof no ledge. Keith Bell. Peter CitIes, January ‘75

I Sm cmvi Up into groove. Fight up past ferns no ledge. Chock anchor.

2 I Sm Up chimney cam layback, bush or rock anchor. Easy finish up slab 1Gm back on ledge, both soloed grade SI’

John F Wilson, George Owens, April ‘68

I 8m ucrusm Thin moves no bolt and even more so getting past it. Easier moves up thin flake no cave and a good solid bolt atichor.

2 I 2m (grade 171 Move left and crank up on some rather mean looking jugs. C onninue warily till you reach a large ledge. Slingx are useful on this pinch.

3 1 Sm ugrade I 7u Start an the obvious weakness in the centre of final wall. Up over bulge then veer across rnghnwards up wall no top. Both the seconds climbed directly up wall no top bun a bolt would be in order if you wanted no lead in this way

John Smoonhy ~, Terry Bernunn~. (alt. leadvi and Andrew Penney. April ‘79

etc 4fm Up and into the righiward leading chimneys of SemiSolo. Wander left an the obvious bash ramp and up easy slab as for Groovie

George Owens (Solol, April ‘68

1. 2Gm Up easy chimneys no bush anchor. Now scramble I 2m up ramp behind you

2 Sm Up wide chimney which narrows higher up. Onwards no top and tree anchor

Phillip Julnan. George Owens, September ‘68

1 1Gm (cruxl Straight up no tree using both cracks

2. 1Gm crux also Move into crack behind tree Pull up on poor looking rock then follow’ crack no tree anchor.

3 25m Up very easy crack in wall.

Dave Darmaninu. Harry C. Laxford. (alt leads April ‘73

1. 1Gm Icruxl Up short crack then follow your nose up wall Protection poor bun climbing technically easy.

2. 25m Fight your way across paddock into rnghnhand corner crack Straight up crack.

Harry Lunford, Dave Darmanin, April ‘73

Start: The crack with small trees in in 7m left of Walkabout

I 3m (cruxl Straight up jamb crack, past trees (beware of possumyl no wide ledge and tree anchor,

2. 8m Up the short and rotten crack on the right and over no gully.

3. 22m Up wall crack, poor protection bun climbing fairly easy Harry’ C. Lusford, Dave Darmanin. Jan ‘73

Stare: A series of thin flakes on wall 12m left of Spaghetti Bolognaise. 1. 1Gm (cruxl Up flakes trending right no gum tree anchor on ledge.

2. 1Gm Up the sharp arene on the left. Mr Smoonhy nones that the tree may he used for runners bun is otherwise off limits. Keep no the right side John Smoothy~. Peter ‘Mute’ Mainland’ (alt leadvl, 25 78

Starr: An a righnward leading chimneylgecove 3m left of Slant I. 22m Up the chimney no tree anchor.

2. 1Gm Up short wall behind.

Philip Julian’. George Owens’, alt. leads September ‘68

Starr: On wall 14m left of Indecision.

1. 21 m Up onto ledge then across right no crack. Straight up crack no tree anchor

2. 2Gm Up groove behind tree then trend left no small crack and nose. [)on’t follow the groove. A bolt on this pitch would be nice.

Harry Luxford, Dave Darmanin, 3. Newton, December ‘72

2. 22m Up crack behind belay, move left then up and around overhang quite

disturb possums in herbage above roof. Harry Lusford, Dave Darmanin, November ‘72

Start: On wall 3m left of Van.

I. 20m (cruxi A few moves up short wall no ledge. Move right no very thin crack then straight up into ledge. Wide nuts 171 helpful in lower sectioti. Anchor off trees and a nun no right of crack..

2. 24m Move left no ease in overhang. Up wall and into groove, technically quite easy bun poor protection.

Harry Lunford. Dave Darmanin. December ‘72

Start: 38m left of Spaghetti Bolognaise an an easy angled right facing corner.

I. I 2m Romp up easy’ corner no tree anchor. If you like you can do the varient up the easy slab on the right as an alternative first pinch. I dont suppose in makes a great deal of difference.

2. 2Gm Up cornerlehimney no tree anchor.

3. I Sm (crux( Up slight arene no right. Tree anchor. Brian Mannick’. George Owens’. April ‘68

Start: The wall 7m left of The Mixture.

I. 20m (grade I 7 A rising traverse righnwards no the blunt nose, Up into a large ledge and a bolt anchor. There are four bolt runners.

2. 2Gm (cruxl Crank up on some jugs an lip of roof and clip a bolt. Move left no a jutting ledge and a friend runner. Make another move left and up no another bolt. Once around the lip of the roof the pinch goes straight up the overhanging wall above no an easy juggy’ finish.

Pinch I: Andrew Penney. Greg Mainland 1979

Pinch 2: Giles Bradhury’, Greg Moore. Warren Lee, Mr K. MeClusky, February ‘82

Start: Wander up for 23m no the top right side of gully. Here is found an easy lefnward leading crack.

I. lOin Up crack and chimney corner no tree anchor.

2. 20m (crax( Up the overhanging crack just no the left of the cave then as you will no top.

Pinch I: S. Searle, R. Bignold. 2S.7.76 Pitch 2: 5. Searle. L. ‘Jock’ Smith, July ‘76

1 2cn icruvi L’p chimney corner then left at the nip inn right inn a tree auchnir

2. 28m Walk up no a crack behind a block. Up crack

S. Searle~, L. Smith~, alt, leads), 3 7 7y

Start: An easy scrubby corner 8m left cif Revinli .‘⁵Iso I 3ni uphill frunni track inn left side of gully halfway up..

I. I Sm Up easy small corner to tree anchor. Walk back inn nibs innus see cinruer.

2. 3m icruvi L’p the obvious crack on the left wall nif cinruer George Owens, Peter Walton, 36.73

Start: 1 8m Left of The Carpenter at a narrow gully with large chockstones wedged in it at the base.

I. 25m crusi walk up gully then up easy chimney and cinruer abuse inn tree anchor. Stroll ck to obvious cornet capped by roof

2. 1Gm Up easily and out through hole in roof. Peter Walton, George Owens. 3.6.~3

Start: An the entrance no the narrow’ gully as for Vs alrus. The climb takes the obvious diagonal crack ox left wall..

I. 8m icruxi Strenuously up crack. quite sustained and rather fingery. Belay point non the t bun lengthening the pitch creates fricinnin problems

2. 1 3m Move left no crack then up no obvious ledge and bush anchor.

3. 12m Straight up crack and slab. Walk off no right and down gully Harry C. Lusford. Dave Darmanin. January ‘73

Start: The steep gully 7m left of Upheaval. Scramble I ((in up no tree anchor an base of chimney.

I. 25m Up chimney.

George Owens, Ken Joyce, 2G.2.71

Start: Short orange corner leading no roofs Sm left of Perfidious Rex.

1. 4Gm Up corner no roof. Traverse left crasi past fixed peg no good hold.s on arene. Continue up no flake then easier ground no top.

Keith Bell, Harry Luxford, November ‘75

Starr: The lefnw’ard leading chimneycorner below roofs 9m left of Pacennaker Start off block.

I. 22m (crux( Move up no crack then follow in diagonally left no small cave. Pull up into chimney and up no bollard anchor.

2. 22m Up rest of chimney and corner above. Traverse right no arene and ap no ledge. Nut anchor,

3. 22m Up wall for Sm then hard moves (originally aid( up no traverse line 3m higher. Traverse rnghn and up easy corner. Tree anchor.

1. 4Gm (crux( Snranghn up no roof bolt runner). Swing over into corner then up wnnh yarned climbing no roof. Traverse left no tree anchor.

2. 1 Sm Up over slight overhang and bulge then either into corner serubby( or wander up slab.

Harry Lusford, Dave Darmantn. June ‘73

Start: On wall 6m left of Honey Dip.

I. JOin Easily up no the first bolt an I 3m then steeply up the lefnward curving line past two more bolts no an interesting exit.

I. I Sm Up corner no below serub then left onto nose and up no chock anchor on large ledge.

3. 1 5m (crux( Out onto nose then up wall on small footholds no ledge then easily up no large ledge.

2. 25m (crux) Up the main corner.

I. lOin As for Turkish Delight.

Starr: Jin left of Turkish Delnghn on the right side of steep square gully

I. 22m Up yellowish rock no roof then traverse right no nose. Up crack no ledge

2. 22m (crux( Up crack no cave, then left on no wall, protection somewhat sporting, delicately up no ledge.

J. JOin Easily up wall no top.

1. J8m (crux) Up corner and right into chimney. Continue up no small roof then chnmney along underneath in and up corner above (hocksnone anchor

2. I Jm Up chimney no wide ledge. Tree anchor..

J. 25m Continue up chimney/corner no top.

Bruce Prtce, George Owens (alt leads) R J Smith 27.8.72

I. JOin (crux) Up left corner crack (as for No Panns for Sm no obvious traverse line no overhanging blank section. Traverse left around nose then either straight up )no protection) or across to tree

2. 1 Jm Straight up.

Start: Below small roof with crack in in II in left of No Pants

I. J5m Up no and over roof then up scrubby crack Harry Luxford, Keith Bell, February ‘74

Start: The shorn overhangnng chimney I 2m left of Baldaqumn.

I 8m (crux) Up short chimney and overhang above Easier climbing leads up

2. 12m Up rest of corner and chimney above.

Start: The roof crack an the very back of huge cave 27m left of Hey Jude. If you want no see how much the whole line overhangs, stand an the start and look up and out )facing valley).

I Sm crux) Jamh, grope and grovel across roofs onto a small ledge. Now up bottomless chimney no nun anchor in roof. You must allow me no briefly quote

from the original description. "vsith 2 inch bonf at hack of Imp for couragc. out of enriers and into knee jamb"

2 Ibm Easily our no lace then imp small bottomless chimney and corxer above. One nun vsas originally used or aid

Bruce Price~. George Ossens~. 22 4 72

I. JOin Up steep scrubby crack for hm Fight through ferns and up onto ledge Continue up the see corner chimney to mop.

Joe Friend. Peter BlackwooiJ. 23 9 73