Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 11:30:37 -1000
From: Robin Netherton
Subject: H-COST: Source on medieval colors
Serendipitously, a librarian friend of mine just passed me this title. He says it's
cataloged as "middle ages," and otherwise this is all I know about it. But it sounds
somewhat connected to our discussion. Perhaps of interest to someone.
P. J. Gibbs, Berberine and huangbo: ancient colorants and dyes (London:
British Library, 1997).
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From: "David Stamper & Eve Harris"
Subject: Re: H-COST: Opus Anglicanum
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 04:26:57 -1000
Coincidentally enough, we were staying with English relatives over part of
Christmas and I had a chance to go over a number of books on Scottish and
English embroidery, not to mention a folio on Costume that included an
article by Janet Arnold on the Sture suits prior to her publishing Patterns
of Fashion!
Although I was chiefly looking to pad my costume bibliography, I noted the
following sources:
King, D. Opus Anglicanum, V&A, 1963.
Wingfield Digby, G. Elizabethan Embroidery, 1963.
Walpole Society, The. English Domestic Embroidery Patterns of the 16th &
17th Centuries, 1940.
And the main reason I found these sources:
Swain, Margaret, OBE. Historical Needlework, 1970.
She has written a number of books on embroidery in various periods and talks
quite a bit about Opus Anglicanum. I'd like to insert here (smirk smirk)
that I just found out that I am closely related to her by marriage, and hope
to get some of the collection when the current owners let them go. She's 90
and still writing. Wow.
Eve Harris
Santa was awful good to me!
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From: "Hope H. Dunlap"
Subject: RE: H-COST: Resource Books
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 09:01:29 -1000
Alternatively, I heard great things about Naomi Tarrant's survey book. Se's at the
National Museum of Scotland.
Kohler's History of Costume, very inexpensive in paper.
Norah Waugh's The Cut of Women's Clothes
Norah Waugh: Corsets and Crinolines, essential, and inexpensive
Norah Waugh: The Cut of Men's Clothes
The following are out of print too, except for Beck and Bradfield, but I love them:
Phillips & Tomkinson's English Women in Life and Letters, Oxford University Press
1926
Dion Clayton Calthrop's English Costume, 1906 in four volumes
Alice Morse Earle's Dress in America, an older book in 2 volumes.
Jaqueline Herald's Italian Renaissance Dress in Italy 1400-1500
Nancy Bradfield's Costume in Detail, for 1725 to about 1935
English women's clothing
Thomasina Beck's The Embroiderer's Story, spans 1650 to 1950
You can get an lot off the Web these days. The best source of non-western garb is
Max Tilke's 1922 volume of watercolors based on garments in the Berlin Ethnographic
Museum, and it's very hard to find and expensive. However,
its on the Web in its entirety at: http://www.indiana.edu/librcsd/etext/tilke. It
includes North Africa, the Balkans, The Mid-East, SW Russia, and
almost all of Asia, except the Arctic.
Here are URL's for the often-requested Greenland Dress(es):
http://www.virtualelpaso.com/neverwinter/dress/dress.htm
http://www.geocities.com/Athens/Parthenon/5923/cloth/herjback.html
The best sources I know for cutting systems and tailoring
books are online at
R.L. Shep / Fred Struthers:
http://www.mcn.org/e/fsbks/HTML/booklist.htm and
Lavolta Press: http://www.best.com/~lavolta/index.htm
These Webpages link to a huge variety of things, in addition
to having strong content of their own:
http://members.aol.com/nebula5/costume.html Best all-round costume reference site
by Julie Zetterberg, who must be a librarian at heart. There's an incredible how
to section, everything from children's Halloween to ethnic, to movies, to historical,
to ice skating, to fantasy, to dance, to art history image sources, to frequently updated
and expanded.
http://www.costumes.org More theatrically oriented site, done by incredibly creative
and enthusiastic Tara McGuinness, who heads the costume shop for the student theatre
for the University of Alaska at Fairbanks.
http://www.costumegallery.com by Penny Dunlap Ladnier is another good one.
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Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 10:24:15 -1000
From: Mike Newell <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: HNW - Blackwork on handkerchief
I believe Countess Ianthe (Kim Salazar) charted these in her book "The New
Carolingian Modelbook". I loaned her my copy of Digby.
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From: "Mary Temple"
Subject: Re: HNW - re:
Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 11:38:22 -1000
>>And am I correct in understanding that you didn't find a lot of
examples of wool-on-linen embroidery?
>>
>I can't find my notes from the additional pieces we found (it was in a book
>on Coptic fabrics), but if I recall correctly, there were *no* examples of
wool embroidery on linen. It seems to be a fairly strict correspondence; wool on wool,
linen on linen, or silk on linen. I wouldn't want to make that generalization from
just this data, but Heather commented that this seems to be a general rule, and she's
seen a *lot* more examples than I have (I'm her apprentice in the SCA). I would guess
that possibly the popularity of wool-on-linen embroidery since the 1960's or so has
somehow conditioned us to think that this is the "normal" combination. (My experience
is that when a beginner mentions just plain "embroidery," this is almost always what
she means by it.)
I just finished reading James Burke's "Connections", and from what he says, I'm not
surprised one doesn't find "wool on linen" embroidery. According to him, Linen wasn't
really widely available for "the masses" until about the twelfth century. Wool was.
Wool as what the commoners wore. Linen was for more well-to-do people. So why use "low
class" fibers to embroider on "higher class" fabric?
BTW - It's a REALLY great book. Lots of information on textiles and
such.
Katerine Rowley
Bryn Gwlad, Ansteorra
mka
Mary Temple
Austin, Texas
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Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 19:19:18 -1000
From: Danielle Nunn
Subject: Re: H-COST: Sources for 16th c. make-up info
Try Sir Hugh Plat's "Delight for Ladies" I think it was actually written in
1609 but, it's close. The cool thing is, most of the receipes aren't
toxic! Also I've recently heard of a book called "Nostradamus's elixers"
I'm ordering it and I'll let you know when I get it.
Cheers,
Danielle
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From: [email protected]
Subject: Re: padded roll headdresses
Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 19:28:59 -1000
Jacqueline Herald: Renaissance Dress in Italy 1400-1500. page 50, illustration
#21. A nude woman wearing only a balzo frame.
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Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 09:34:11 -1000
From: aleed
Subject: Re: H-COST: Anatomie of Abuses?
Stubbes hated the fashionable froo-fra of the day, and sounded off about it at length
and in great detail. As a result, he's a great resource for people trying to recreate
historical fashions.
Drea
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Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 14:12:43 -1000
From: Carol Thomas
Subject: Re: HNW - Charted designs
German Renaissance Embroidery by Katherine Epstein is in print.
Niccolo Zoppino's Esemplario ~ 1530 was put out by Falconwood Press in Albany. Don't
know if it is still in print. They had some other period embroidery book replicas
as well, free-hand and mixed free and counted.
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From: Eloise Beltz-Decker
Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 08:55:21 -1000
On Mon, 8 Feb 1999, Jessica Wilbur wrote:
> OK, I lied, one more: Green Duck lists a book called The Tudor Image. Anybody know
anything about this book? It looks like a book of portraits from that era, which
could be useful, but I don't know what other kinds of information might be in it.
It's not that expensive, so I might just get it anyway, but I was curious as to other people's
opinions of it.
Well, I looked at it in the Univ of Toronto library, and it's GORGEOUS. The pictures,
mainly. I lugged it to Kinko's and made like 30 high-quality color xeroxes before
I returned it :-> The text was also kind of interesting, pointing out the purposes
portraits served - which was usually NOT to be photo-realistic, in either the faces OR
the clothes. This is why Hans Holbein is the god of costumers who study that period
- he, personally, DID care about making the clothes look completely accurate. Etc.
It's worth reading, I dont' know if it's worth buying for huge sums of money. But it does
have LOTS of GORGEOUS pictures. :-> All attributed with author, subject's name if
known, date, etc (which is what pisses me off about a LOT of costume-survey books
-
unattributed pictures! Or undated, anyway. Grrf)
--------------------------------------------------------------
From: [email protected]
Subject: Black Prince
This in the "Black Prince" book that comes to my mind. Here is the bibliographic entry
from the Univ of Arkansas library -
>OCLC # 7811744.
>ISBN/ISSN 0847669394 (Rowman & Littlefield)
>CALL # GT575 .N48.
>AUTHOR Newton, Stella Mary.
>TITLE Fashion in the age of the Black Prince : a study of the years
> 1340-1365 / Stella Mary Newton.
>IMPRINT Woodbridge : Boydell Press ; Totowa, N.J. : Rowman &
Littlefield, 1980.
>DESCRIPT vi, 151 p., [1] leaf of plates : ill. (some col.) ; 29 cm.
>NOTE Bibliography: p. 140-145.
> Includes index.
>SUBJECT Costume -- History -- Medieval, 500-1500.
> Costume -- Europe -- History.
> Costume in art -- Europe -- History.
--------------------------------------------------------------
From: Hope Greenberg
Subject: Re: Black Prince
Newton, Stella Mary. Fashion in the age of the Black Prince : a study
of the years 1340-1365. Woodbridge : Boydell Press ; Totowa, N.J. :
Rowman & Littlefield, 1980.
OLCL ACCESSION #: 7062039. Should be available through interlibrary
loan.
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From: Heather Law
Date: Sat, 6 Feb 1999 14:16:34 -1000
Have you tried this one? It ferreted out both Mongol Costume *and* Women's Clothing
of the Near and Middle East, both mint:
http://www.bestbookbuys.com/index.html
It puts the general info, incl. isbn, on the screen, then below that click on ISBN
(you don't have to type it into the box) then go back up a
little and click Compare Prices.
--------------------------------------------------------------
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re: MoL book, was Re: Buttons
Eloise, have you tried these online places?
Oxbow Books
Welcome to Batsford Books
Hard-to-Find Needlework Books
HamiltonBook.com ! The Lowest Prices
Anywhere.
Bibliofind,books,Booksearch, Antiquarian
Book...
Bibliofind is my all-time favorite location and the one where I have the best
luck.
Nancy (Ingvild)
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From: "Linda Lassman"
Date: Tue, 23 Feb 1999 12:47:44 -1000
Subject: H-COST: Catalogue of English Domestic Embroidery of the 16th and 17th Centuries
After reading this post and doing a quick catalogue search, I immediately
took a break to run up to the stacks to get it (ah, the joys of working in a
university library!). When I got there, I found it and also:
"Catalogue of English Domestic Embroidery of the 16th and 17th Centuries"
by John Nevinson. It's a V&A Dept. of Textiles publication from 1938,
reprinted in 1950. There are 108 pages of text and 72 b/w plates.
They do have 1 stomacher in the book (plate 58) and the text reads as
follows:
STOMACHER: EARLY 17TH CENTURY
Silk and metal thread on linen; satin and darning stitches, with couched work. Colours--pale
blue, pale green, cream, bright yellow, orange, pink, pale carmine.
Lozenge diaper of small straight leafy sprays in green, enclosing small sprigs, rose
and cherry, honeysuckle and raspberry, in alternate lines. The
short tabs about the waist are formed of fragments with the same pattern,
edged with green silk buttonholing and spangles.
W. 17 1/4 in., H. 13 3/4 in.
Looking at the photo, there is a plain, unembroidered edging on the sides that looks
to be approx. 1 1/2" wide. The shape is basically a rectangle, with notches trimmed
out on the upper corners for the armholes (approx. 1 1/2" wide and 3" deep?). There
are unembroidered bands on each side of the stomacher that look to be 1 1/2" wide;
there are no buttonholes or eyelets or hooks/eyes or anything else to indicate how
it was attached to the bodice. The top edge is very slightly concave (less than
1/2" at centre?). The bottom edge is dipped approx 1" at centre. There are 8 tacets ("short
tabs" above) sewn onto the bottom edge; the 2nd tacet from each end is completely
on the outside (eg, overlaps the edges of both the 1st and 3rd); the 4th one from
each end meet at the centre front. Interestingly, it appears that the 4th tacet on the right
side (left side looking at it) overlaps the 3rd tacet, and the 2nd tacet on that
side either has the bottom inside corner cut off or has it tucked under the 3rd tacet.
The tacets are wider at the bottom than at the top.
Hope this information is of some help to people!
- Linda Lassman
Winnipeg, Manitoba
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Date: Sun, 14 Feb 1999 09:37:33 -1000
From: Chris Laning
Subject: Re: HNW - blackwork books
No one's mentioned my personal favorite yet: Kathleen Epstein's _An Anonymous Woman:
Her Work Wrought in the 17th Century_ [Curious Works Press, 1992; ISBN 0-9633331-9]
and _A New Modelbook for Spanish Stitch_ [Curious Works Press, 1993; ISBN 0-9633331-4-3]. I recommend these every time I get a chance, especially to people interested
in historical background. Epstein is a true scholar and manages to convey a lot of
information in few words. They are reasonably priced, but not usually carried by
mainstream book sellers because they're from a small press: try Green Duck
on line.
These do draw upon post-1600 sources, but I have no hesitation about using the patterns,
since there's considerable continuity of style pre- and post- in blackwork and counted-thread
cross stitch, the two techniques covered. There are very helpful stitch-by-stitch diagrams, and the techniques are amazing -- not only double-sided counted-thread
blackwork, but would you believe double-sided cross stitch??!?!? And she shows you
just how to do it. She also has a very clear historical exposition of the origins and travels of blackwork, with information I haven't seen anywhere else; and it's
clear from her discussion that her sources are sound and she knows what she's talking
about. I can't recommend her too highly; I just wish she'd write LONG books instead
of short ones!
Someone also loaned me a copy of Louisa Pesel's _Historical Designs for
Embroidery_, which I think is now out of print again. (B. T. Batsford Ltd.,
reissued 1998; ISBN 0-7134-5999-9). It's a collection from the 1940s (?) of
patterns, drawn from original examples ranging from the late 1500s through
the 1700s. The blackwork section contains a lot of very nice patterns,
unfortunately without much date information, but mostly from the 17th
century. I've found it a very helpful pattern source, even without the date
info.
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Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 16:50:09 -1000
From: Lady Eleanor
Subject: Re: H-COST: books
According to Amazon.com it's:
Tailor's pattern book, 1589 : By: Juan de Alcega
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Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 09:12:18 -1000
Subject: Re: H-COST: books
-Poster: [email protected]
The publisher is not Dover, but Ruth Bean. I know of publishing companies who are
trying to get the rights to republish it, but have run into problems. Ruth Bean has
no intentions of republishing it, however.
Kat
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Date: Tue, 9 Mar 1999 02:01:51 -1000
From: Grace Morris
Subject: Re: The color "black" in Period re: Funerals
Some sources for mourning costume, gathered for a class entitled "The
Well-Dressed Funeral":
Bassett, Steven,Ed.(1992). Death in Towns: Urban Responses to the Dying and
the Dead, 100-1600. Leicester, London and NY: Leicester University Press
Cumnington, Phillis, and Lucas, Catherine. (1972) Costume for Births,
Marriages, and Deaths. NY: Barnes and Noble Books
Daniell, christopher. Death and Burial in Medieval England: 1066-1550.
London and NY: Routledge
Puckle, Bertram S. (1926) Funeral Custons: Their Origin and Development. London:
T. Werner Laurie, Ltd 1926 (this one may be more fun than factual..)
Strocchia, Sharon T. (1992) Dath and ritual in Renaissance florence.
Baltimore and London: Johns Hopkins University Press
Taylor, Lou. (1983) Mourning Dress. London: George Allen & Unwin Ltd.
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Date: Sun, 7 Mar 1999 08:25:19 -1000
From: Curtis & Mary
Subject: HNW - Book site
To all my friends with historical interests; Go check out this website!!
Amazing numbers of secondhand and out of print books.
http://www.heritageweb.com/
Mairi, Atenveldt
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Date: Sat, 13 Mar 1999 22:14:22 -1000
From: Marilyn Traber
Subject: great website on books
castle books
http://dialspace.dial.pipex.com/town/square/fe63/index.htm
Welcome to the Castle Bookshop Web Site. We are a specialist bookseller dealing mainly
in books about Archaeology, Local History, Architecture, Wales, Celtic Studies and
linguistics.
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Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 03:35:29 -1000
From: T Cardy
Subject: Re: Painterly accuracy and such...
Gentles,
Taschen publishing has a set of books out (3 volumes) by Rose-Marie & Ranier Hagen
called: What Great Paintings Say I, II, III. They take a number of commonly known
and not-so-known paintings and break parts of them down into their elements.
They explain where many of the symbolisms come from, and have researched quite deeply
into the social history of the subjects. Each portrait or scene reads like a giant
billboard about the values, social standing, and what the sitter was trying to achieve by having a portrait done.
They also detail many of the artistic licenses taken by the painter and the sitter
to create a specific statement about who and what that person wanted to appear as.
I was amazed at things that were added in just to make the sitter look higher in
class, or richer, or prettier etc...
I'm really not trying to add fire to this topic, but my beliefs in period accuracy
(post 1500 to present) were sorely shaken (and yet I continued on, because I'm a
sucker for detail and well researched information) after going through these books.
It all comes back to the methods that I learned when doing research for my Masters
degree. "Don't believe everything you see" and "always study the society, politics
and class structure twice before setting your research down as fact."
Rizzoli book stores have the Taschen books available in limited number (I had a heck
of time getting number II). Amazon has a few in stock.
back