From: DUNHAM Patricia R
Subject: RE: H-COST: Re: Wearing Veils and Wimples,a question
Date: Mon, 7 Jul 1997 12:53:00 -1000
What an amazing thing is language! This is how I understand the following terms,
with a comment or two thrown in. 8-) (The extreme rigorousness of my sources is
explained by the fact that I work at a public library 8-)!!)
-*- Fillet - a narrow band worn horizontally around the head at forehead level (one
inch or less). Henk has called the "Manesse-thingy-with-barbette" a "fillet" and
barbette. An expanded fillet, to be sure. I haven't heard this usage, but I've
just been looking and can't find another term I recognize, and at least the spatial orientation
is congruent!
-*- Barbette - a slightly wider band (maybe 2 inches?) worn vertically
around the head, bottom center under the chin, ends pinned snugly at the top of the
head (as Henk described the location). (Davenport describes the Manesse cap-and-barbette
as just "barbette".)
-*- Wimple or Gorget - a piece of material worn in the same manner as the barbette
(under chin, pinned atop the head) which is wide enough that the free edge (opposite
the pinned edge) falls to about the collar bone level. This is what covers the neck
in modern nun's habits.
I cut mine -- how to describe... some British military uniforms have
(have had) a sort of brass fat crescent moon thingy that is worn hanging
around the neck on a chain with the solid piece just at the front of the
throat... I think I saw them last, actually, in the Sharpe's Eagle
video... Napoleonic war period. It's like a very fat "C" lying on it's
back. If this general shape is expanded sufficiently that the inner,
shorter edge is long enough to be pinned like the barbette, you will
get a good wimple. If you lay the center-line (center of chin to center
of chest) on the bias of your fabric, it will work even better. (This
gives you a bias edge around the face... you can snug it up more when
pinning without throttling yourself, and the bias greatly improves the
folds.) I have simple machine-stitched hems on both edges of mine, the
top one is folded in so it doesn't show, and I usually tuck the lower
edge into the neck of my overgown. I probably should have the bottom
one hand-stitched.. Spread out flat it may be 12 inches on the center
line, and 24-30 inches on the longest straight dimension. If there is
some overage of fabric at the back of the head, simply overlap them flat
and pin. The free edge of this piece may be tucked into the neckline of
the gown, or may be so large as to reach to the shoulders on the side,
with a corresponding fall across the front of the chest. James Laver
concurs with this description and implies that the terms "wimple" and
"gorget" are interchangeable. R Turner Wilcox appears to refer to the
main veil as "wimple" consistently-- I'm sure this is incorrect usage.
-*- "Coif" - Henk, I bet I found why someone was referring to your
Manesse "fillet" as a "coif." Holkeboer has simplified terminology for
her pattern book and she calls anything on top of the head, above the
veil, a "coif". She uses the term for 3-4 different "hat-thingies" in
a row. All constructed structures! not the little cap with ties that
goes UNDER everything in late period. I have usually referred to the
little open upstanding thingy so many of the Manesse ladies wear with
their barbettes as a "dixie cup" (why, I can no longer recall! 8-),
something about the crinkled edge, I think) R Turner Wilcox appears to
call this a "toque", or possibly a "turret". (Also see below)
Embellished veils. I never thought about documenting this! Thanks for
the reference to an edge treatment Henk, since I have one on my basic
veil. A number of years ago, I discovered in my local public library, a
fascinating tome,
-The Craft of Embroidery, a practical study- by Alison Liley;
New York, Drake Publishers, 1972; ISBN "87749-260-3"
which appears to be the American edition of a study guide for the
beginners levels of British "City and Guilds Hand Embroidery" exams (!).
Since reproducing the illustration in ASCII is way beyond my talents,
8-), I'll quote the whole description. On p. 165/166 is described a
"shell hem":
"Shell hemming is generally regarded as a lingerie finish and requires a
soft fabric to be effective. Stitch and trim as for a rolled hem, but
turn in a deeper hem and tack. Hemstitch the requisitie number of
stitches (2, 4?) then whip twice over the hem in the same spot, pulling
the stitches up to draw in the fabric. Repeat this at absolutely
regular intervals. A similar treatment may be used for tucking (shell
tucks)." Figure 193 shows two hem stitches, then the thread whipped
around the edge and pulled tight so the fabric dimples down to about
half the depth of the whole hem.
The veiling I have applied this to is a medium weight cotton semi-gauze.
I've only ever finished the front half, but it looks grand, I think.
Produces a scalloped edge, but solid/opaque. And I always thought that
for constructing a Manesse type headpiece, all you would have to do
would be to stitch in a light piece of milliners or florists white wire
along the top edge, in one of these shell hems, and then tweak the wire
back and forth! (Probably cut the headpiece as an arc, rather than a
straight strip, so you have extra top edge for "frilling".)
Cheers!
Patricia R. Dunham - Eugene Public - 100 W 13th Ave - 97401
[email protected] - 541-984-8321
http://204.203.17.34/library (EPL) <<<>>>
http://members.aol.com/gerekr/medieval.html (home)
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bill wyler wrote:
> Is there any medieval literature that would deal with the "rules" of wearing wimples?
As far as I know: no. I don't know if there were any 'rules'. Clothing is
not normally worn according to rules. There are customs and people derive
these from what the majority deem to be 'proper'.
> Was what was deemed the "head covering" during that time, completely cover the hair
like the Nuns of the past had?
As far as I could find: it was considered to be extremely proper to let not
a hair escape from the wimple and veil by women who wore both. Young and
less serious women were not so prim and sometimes let some hair escape. It
was not always, however, possible to keep the hair inside. While working on
the field, over a hot fire or in the bosom of one's family on a windless
day, women took of their veils or wimples and showed their hair. The
medieval mind was not against the showing of hair as such, but only thought
it more decent to keep it covered (as well as thinking it practical in the
cold and in drafts or against getting dirty to quickly).
Nuns (who were no better than they should be...) being examples of very
decent women, kept their hair completely covered and short as well.
Success,
Henk
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