Date: Sat, 30 Aug 1997 16:09:27 -1000
From: Frances Grimble
Subject: H-COST: New historic costuming newsgroup
There is a new costuming newsgroup called alt.history.costuming, though
not many messages have been posted so far. However, there is one
describing the newsgroup's charter.
Fran Grimble
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Date: Sat, 7 Sep 1996 08:13:49 -1000
From: Margo Anderson
Subject: Re: H-COST: Eliz. shoulder roll treatments??
>I am making a early Eliz. I dress, and I need suggestions on how to make the
>large shoulder "rolls" other than just suffing them. I will have very large
>sleeves.
Are you taslking about the decorative shoulder rolls sewn to the armholes of
the bodice, or the padded rolls that go inside the sleeves to hold them out?
Either way, the method of making them is the same: You cut cresent shapes
whose inner diameter matches your armhole shape (A flexible curve is very
useful for this) stitch, turn, and stuff. To put them inside a sleeve,
fasten them to the inner seam allowances with swing tacks. To attach them
to a bodice, hand stitch with strong thread. I like to use a curved
upoulstery needle. Rolls can be decorated with strips of trim, pearls, etc.
I've also seen them less firmly stuffed and gathered into puffs at intervals.
Margo Anderson
"One Tough Costumer"
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Date: Sun, 7 Sep 1997 10:07:44 -1000
Subject: Re: H-COST: Eliz. shoulder roll treatments??
Hello All,
I believe that the Elizabethan solution involved using boning running
across the rolls to give the additional support they need to be really huge. I think
a light-weight boning such as feather-boning(plastic) or
Rigilene would work best.
Karen
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Date: Sun, 7 Sep 1997 13:15:09 -1000
From: Margaret Rae Carignan
Subject: Re: H-COST: Eliz. shoulder roll treatments??
Howdy!
I have used the patterns in Janet Arnold to adapt the shoulder rolls that
are slashed. I sew each tab section with cover, lining, and canvas. It is
easier to sew these by hand than to machine them and 'bag them out'(turning something
that small inside out with canvas in it is HARD!). They can also be decorated by
hand. I then set them into the armhole, basting them into place before setting in
the sleeve or finishing the armhole in the case of detachable sleeves.
The canvas provides enough stiffness that a tapered tube of fabric, which
makes the puffs beween the tabs, is sufficient to "stuff" the roll. I have
never used boning in them, but that is certainly a possiblility worth
investigating.
By the way, the seam allowance at the armhole does tend to be bulky, but
if the whole allowance is turned toward the bodice when pressing, this helps to push
the roll out toward the arm. Grading should be done
carefully because if the canvas is trimmed too close to the stitching, the
stiff fabric may push against the stitching, causing the seam to gape.
Let us know how it turns out.
Meg/Francesca
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Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 06:26:26 -1000
From: "I. Marc Carlson"
Subject: H-COST: Footwear of the Middle Ages
Just as a note to those who keep track of such things, the latest
(and hopefully the last) version of "Footwear of the Middle Ages"
("http://www.pbm.com/~lindahl/carlson/SHOEHOME.HTM") is in place and
available. I am considering this the final version since I am trying
to make arrangements to publish a paper version.
Just as an aside, I haven't forgotten my plans to create a similar work
on clothing and hats based on archaeological and artifact sources, but
since real life considerations have slowed me down considerably, I am
looking at other options. I hope to have a "working copy" in place within the month
or so that hopefully will be of SOME use to someone.
Any questions or comments should be mailed to me directly since I really
don't have a lot of time to read large mailing lists right now.
Thank you for your time.
Marc Carlson
(sometimes known as Diarmuit Ui Dhuinn)
[email protected]
http://www.geocities.com/athens/parthenon/5923
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Date: Thu, 18 Sep 1997 16:54:13 -1000
From: Oriana
Subject: H-COST: Eleanor of Toledo
I'm way behind on my reading so please be tolerant if this is old news.
> Perhaps an embroidered (fabric) snood would be better. There is a portrait
> of Eleanor of Toledo* (c1550), wife of Cosimo de'Medici, with her son
> Garcia that shows one done with ribbon and larger pearls which is gorgeous.
> The pearls are stitched to joins in the ribbon netting.
>
> Does anyone have any experience with making beaded hair accessories, or
> know of any good resources? In addition does anyone know of any colour
> reproductions of this portrait?
I have a book called "The Renaissance: European Painting 1400-1600" by
Charles McCorquodale. ISBN 1851708928. The copyright page says 'First published
in Great Britain in 1994 by Studio Editions Ltd., Princess
House, 50 Eastcastle Street, London, W1N 7AP". It is oversized, like
a 'coffee-table book.'
On page 22 of this book is the portrait you are referring to, in full
color. In this edition, the author remarks 'Although not a companion
piece to the portrait of her husband, this portrait of Eleonora
forms an excellent counterpart. [Agnolo] Bronzino has deliberately
rendered Eleonora's lavish costume and pearls as rigidly as her husband's
armour.' So while the snood probably is a good representation of
what it really looked like, for anyone wanting to copy the dress, be aware that what
is shown is, in all probability, not quite what
it really looked like.
Sharon
[email protected]
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Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 09:27:14 -1000
From: Frances Grimble
Subject: H-COST: Favorite Books
I've been following the discussion on the best books for a costumer's
library with interest. I've been thinking of books to recommend, but
it's hard because there are so many good ones. Personally I think the
technical books with patterns and sewing instructions are most
essential.
I think someone already recommended Janet Arnold's _Patterns of Fashion
series:
Arnold, Janet. Patterns of Fashion: The Cut and Construction of
Clothes for Men and Women 1560=961620. New York: Drama Book Publishers,
1985.
Arnold, Janet. Patterns of Fashion 1: Englishwomen's Dresses and Their
Construction 1660=961860. New York: Drama Book Publishers, 1972. =20
Arnold, Janet. Patterns of Fashion 2: Englishwomen's Dresses and Their
Construction 1860=961940. New York: Drama Book Publishers, 1972.
and these are excellent. Also:
Waugh, Norah. Corsets and Crinolines. New York: Theatre Arts Books, 1970.
Waugh, Norah. The Cut of Men's Clothes 1600=961900. New York: Theatre
Arts Books, 1964.
Waugh, Norah. The Cut of Women's Clothes 1600=961930. New York: Theatre
Arts Books, 1968.
and
Hunnisett, Jean. Period Costume for Stage & Screen: Patterns for
Women's Dress Medieval=961500. Studio City: Players Press, 1996.
Hunnisett, Jean. Period Costume for Stage & Screen: Patterns for
Women's Dress 1500=961800. Studio City: Players Press, 1991.
Hunnisett, Jean. Period Costume for Stage & Screen: Patterns for
Women's Dress 1800=961909. Studio City: Players Press, 1991.
Each of these books covers a relatively broad time period, and thus
can't go into any specific year in great detail. For that you need
period pattern books, dressmaking manuals, fashion magazines, etc. You
can of course buy antique ones, but they can be expensive and hard to
find. Robb Shep publishes a good series of reprints though. There must
be about 20 of them to date, I haven't counted. Some titles:
Brown, P. Clement. Art in Dress. Mendocino: R. L. Shep, 1993.
Devere, Louis. The Handbook of Practical Cutting on the Centre Point
System. Mendocino: R. L. Shep, 1986.
Giles, Edward B. The Art of Cutting and History of English Costume.=20
Mendocino: R. L. Shep, 1987.
Hecklinger, Charles. Dress and Cloak Cutter: Women's Costume
1877=961882. Mendocino: R. L. Shep, 1987.=20
Holding, T. H. Late Victorian Women=92s Tailoring: The Direct System of
Ladies=92 Cutting. Mendocino: R. L. Shep, 1997. =20
Hopkins, J. C. Edwardian Ladies' Tailoring: The Twentieth Century
System of Ladies' Garment Cutting. Mendocino: R. L. Shep, 1990.=20
Minister, Edward & Son. The Complete Guide to Practical Cutting.=20
Mendocino: R. L. Shep, 1993.
Shep, R. L., ed. Civil War Ladies: Fashions and Needle-Arts of the
Early 1860s. Mendocino: R. L. Shep, 1987.
Shep, R. L., ed. Late Georgian Costume. Mendocino: R. L. Shep, 1991.
Shep, R. L. and W. S. Salisbury, eds. Civil War Gentlemen: 1860s
Apparel Arts & Uniforms. Mendocino: R. L. Shep, 1994.
Vincent, W. D. F. Tailoring of the Belle Epoque: Vincent's Systems of
Cutting All Kinds of Tailor-Made Garments. Mendocino: R. L. Shep,
1991.
Fran Grimble
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Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 02:53:11 -1000
From: [email protected] (R.L. Shep)
Subject: H-COST: favorite books
-Poster: [email protected] (R.L. Shep)
I have a lot of favorite books - but a few of them are:
Victorian Costume by Anne Buck - - Cutting a Fashionable Fit by Claudia
Kidwell - - After a Fashion: How to Reproduce, Restore, and Wear Vintage
Styles by Frances Grimble - - A Dictionary of English Costume 900-1900
by C.W. & P.E. Cunnngton, & Charles Beard. - -Threads of Identity -
Embroidery & Adornment of the Nomadic Rabaris by Judy Frater - - The Sari - Styles,
Patterns, History, Techniques by Linda Lynton. - - and I have just
seen The Edwardian Modiste - 85 Authentic Patterns with Instructions,
Fashion Plates, and Period Sewing Techniques by Francis Grimble - good
enough that I wish I had done it.
~!~ R.L. Shep
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Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 13:59:41 -1000
Subject: Re: H-COST: Favorite books
Hello All,
One of my favorites is of course 'Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd' by Janet Arnold.
Her 'Patterns of Fashion' are all excellent as well. The
recently mentioned Museum of London books on 'Medieval Excavations in
London' are wonderful but very technical. A non-costume oriented book
which is none the less an excellent source for Tudor and Elizabethan
clothing is 'Dynasties' edited by Karen Hearn. 'Dress in Ireland' by
Mairead Dunlevy is an excellent specific source for an area which doesn't
usually get good documentation.
Stop me before I inventory my entire costume book collection!
Karen
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From: Melanie Schuessler
Subject: H-COST: favorite books
Here are a few that haven't been mentioned but should be (IMHO):
_The Italian Comedy_ by Pierre Louis Ducharte. One of the better Commedia dell'Arte
compilations I have seen (and relatively cheap!)--has both text
info and many pictures. reprinted by Dover ISBN# 0-486-21679-9
by Joan Severa. I know I've talked this one to death, but it's REALLY
good. ISBN# 0-87338-512-8
_The Art of Dress: Clothes and Society 1500-1914_ by Jane Ashelford.
fashion plates, text, pictures of garments, including a section on children
and one on servants. ISBN# 0-8109-6317-5
_The Art of Dress: Fashion in England and France 1750-1820_ by Aileen
Ribiero. has a lot about dress as seen in portraiture. ISBN# 0-300-06287-7
_Daily Life in Holland in the Year 1566 And the Story of My Ancestor's
Treasure Chest_ by Rien Poortvliet. This is an absolutely beautiful book
illustrated by hand and covering many aspects of life, including clothing
and how it was worn. I'm not an expert on Dutch clothing of 1566, but it
looks pretty convincing--any opinions, Henk? ISBN# 0-8109-3309-8
These are a few of my favorite things...
Melanie
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