Author's Note:
Ice Climbing can be dangerous. The risk of injury and death can not be eliminated. The author does not recommend participation in outdoor activities without extensive, gradual, outdoor experience, as well as guidance and instruction from a seasoned climber or professional guide.
The following story line is not necessarily indicative of how ice climbing should be approached or exercised. The reader should not infer that this story is meant to be instructional, or even informative. It is neither. It is a short story, meant to entertain, not guide.
Keep in mind that the following is a short story before inferring anything about characters or the author. Although fictionalized for dramatic effect, the story line closely follows actual events. Information on trail, climbing, and mountain conditions are as accurate as my descriptions (and sometimes failing memory) allow.
Yes, it was cold out there this weekend. But have you ever come back from a trip sore and tired but smiling ear to ear? Chris Dube, Steve Sosa, and I spent the weekend ice climbing in Lee Vining and had a great trip. Anyway, if anyone is looking for ice climbing beta in Lee Vining as of Jan 31, 1999, the Left wall is in condition although some parts are a little thin. Central and Right walls are in condition. Left wall is 1.5 to 2 pitches, Central and Right are 1 pitch and can be top roped. Hike in is about 1/2 mile and very reasonable - but watch for avalanche danger as this past storm has probably loaded some of the slopes above the canyon. Steve said he has never seen the area as crowded as it was this past weekend (maybe I shouldn't be writing this? :-), and both he and Chris complained about the number of top rope lines hogging up routes on the Central Wall (not good to lead a route if a top roper is chopping ice above you!). Of course, weekends are lot more crowded than weekdays. We started with a 2 pitch to the left of the main/central bulge route on the Left Wall. Sorry I don't have names of the routes, but our topo was of no use to us. First pitch started with a left traverse to a narrow "gully" between two rocks, then straight up. Steve set up a hanging belay about 70 feet high and cut some steps. Chris led the 2nd pitch right over a vertical face, then straight up to an overhang then moved left on a vertical face, left over some chandelier ice, and right over a low angle slab/bulge where we topped out. Some difficulty hearing each other after he moved over the bulge so we had to rely on 3 rope tugs to communicate when the next climber was on belay. Very satisfying climb and ice was nice. 1st pitch was WI 3 and 2nd pitch WI 4/4+. We finished the day on a 1 pitch on the Central Wall, probably a WI 3, just to the right of the route which has chain anchors set up on top. Ice looked great from below, but varied from good to crappy, and we were yelling "ice" about every other move. Mid/upper-section is where the ice was in bad condition, with large sections fracturing and giving you incentive to move quickly. Route finished off over some bulges and ice that was slick, polished, and wet. Not as satisfying as our first route. The next day a winter storm watch was posted for the Sierra so we bailed after breakfast and headed home. You can stay at Murphy's Inn on Hwy 395 in Lee Vining for a "climber's discount" of $38 plus tax ($41.32 total) per night per room. Double twin beds go quick - so bring a sleeping bag and pad to crash on the floor. There is enough space in each room to dry all your gear and the showers are nice and big. Rooms are heated but the heater drys out the air so drink water throughout the night to stay hydrated. Oh yeah, you even get free coffee in the morning. Nicely's Restaurant is 50 meters away on 4th St and Hwy 395. It is the only restaurant in town open during the winter. 7am-8pm. Good breakfasts and dinners for about $5 -$10. Owner is very friendly and can give you info on road conditions, weather, etc. She even filled up our thermos' with hot water for the day! Drive took us less than 6 hours up (and I was driving the speed limit!) but 7 hours back due to the storm/chain requirements and traffic. From SF, take I-80 east to US-50 east over the pass to South Lake Tahoe. Right on CA-Hwy 89 south over another pass then left on CA-Hwy 88 east. Take 88 to the town of Minden the right on US-395 south to Lee Vining in the Mono Lake basin. Take CA-Hwy 120 east just until the gates close the road. Take a left onto the Southern CA Edison utility road and follow it all the way up to the power plant. Do not park or camp in the power plant area as this might jeopardize access. Park close to the port-a-potties instead. Hike up behind the power plant westward into the canyon. If you are lucky, someone else has post-holed a trail up and you just follow the bread crumbs. Bring food, water, a headlamp and enough gear to lead or set up TR anchors. Some climbers brought shovels to set up comfy belay stations on the ground. Pack out what you pack in. p.s. A big thanks to Steve and Chris for showing a newbie like me the finer points of ice climbing appreciation. :-) They are great climbers and even better partners!
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