Location: Coast of West Africa. Capital city: Lome (US Embassy). Area: 56,000 square km. Population: 5,153,088. Neighbouring countries: Ghana, Benin, Burkina Faso. Language description: French (official), Ewe, Mina, Dagomba and Kabye. Currency: West African CFA franc. Economy: Agriculture. Time: GMT / UTC Telephone codes: #228, country code Religion: Animist, Christian, Islamic. Time Zone: Greenwich Mean Time (GMT). Daylight Saving Time is not observed. Tipping Overview: Tip 10% unless a service charge is included in the bill. Taxi drivers do not expect a tip. Voltage Requirements: 220 volts. Passport/Visa U.S. : Passport, visa, sufficient funds and proof of onward passage required of citizens of Canada and the U.S. Reconfirm travel document information with your carrier before departure.

History:

Encompassing more than a dozen major linguistic and cultural ethnic groups, the area known today as Togo was at the edge of many African empires. The varied African tribes that passed through all left their mark, as have the Portuguese, Germans, British and French.

Portuguese slave traders were the first Europeans to venture into Togo, during the time when the region was called the "Slave Coast." Except for Cameroon, Togo is the only country in west Africa in which German colonialists had a significant influence. In 1884, a German diplomat, Gustav Nachtigal, signed a treaty with King Mlapa III (the chief of Togoville) establishing the protectorate of German Togoland.

The Germans developed Togo's agricultural resources, and German Togoland was an imperial colony for 30 years until August 1914, when, in the first Allied victory anywhere in World War I, the British and French took it away.

The country was divided between the two winning powers as a League of Nations mandate, and Togo's already illogical borders became even more peculiar when many tribal communities were split. In 1956, the people voted to make those borders permanent, and the western third of Togo (which had been controlled by Britain) joined Ghana. Though more than 45 ethnic groups can be identified in Togo today, the population consists primarily of Ewe (Bantu) tribes in the south and Kabye (Hamitic) tribes in the less developed north.

The French part, modern-day Togo, became independent in 1960. Two violent coups brought Gnassingbe Eyadema to power in 1967, and he was in an unchallenged position of authority for the following quarter century. Eyadema, a Kabye and a former army sergeant, nationalized the phosphate industry and helped develop Togo's road system and modern communications network. But he also saddled the nation with several white elephants (for example, an electric-powered steel mill in a nation that must import all of its energy).

Winds of democratic change, however, began to blow through the nation, and in June 1991, after civil unrest to end one-party rule, Eyadema agreed to give up many of his powers and to become president in name only. But he almost immediately changed his mind, and further public disorder occurred.
The country held elections in 1993, but they were undermined by massive fraud. Elections were held again the following year, which earned the opposition a number of seats in the National Assembly. Eyadema, however, remains in power. He was re-elected president in 1998

SITES


Lome

The highlights of this capital city (pop. 790,000) are its lovely colonial buildings and its palm-fringed golden sand beaches (though we wouldn't swim in the water -- the ocean is literally the toilet of thhe poorer Togolese). The city is also one of the most exciting nightlife centers in West Africa.
Radios of the street vendors fill the night air with African music.
Start a day in Lomé by watching the fishermen on the beaches preparing to go out to sea -- or end it with their return, as they unload their catches. In between, visit one of the two city markets. The three-story-high Grand Marche is the original -- it's filled with brilliantly colored fabrics and other local items. The ground floor has food and spices, the second floor has various types of cloth, and the third floor offers bracelets, Togolese beads and goods imported for local residents. (Watch out for pickpockets!) There's also an interesting vodun-fetish market at Akodessewa, just 5 mi/8 km to the northeast of the center of Lomé. This is where the Ewe "twin cult" figures are for sale. (Ask to see them, as they're not usually displayed, but don't begin the bargaining process unless you intend to buy.)

The German Cathedral, with its carved pews and wall paintings, offers a glimpse into Togo's colonial past. Other sights include the mosque and the National Museum. (Allow at least two hours for the museum -- it displays some interesting national and historic artifacts, including maps, paintings and photos.)
About an hour northwest of town is Assahoun, a fabric center where colorful, striped Kente cloth is for sale

Aneho

A 45-minute ride east of Lomé brings you to Aného. This capital of the Guen people, and the second capital of Togo during the colonial period, possesses a folklore that is unique: Adjogbo, Gbekon, two dances, which are extraordinary and of strong and original figures. These dances won the first place in the first World Black Art festival held in Dakar. It can be interesting to pick your way through colonial buildings that remain standing and to watch the daily activities of the fisher-folk deftly navigating their boats and hauling in their nets in the late afternoon.
At night, Aného is at its best, with a variety of food vendors and musicians filling the air with scents and sounds. It makes for great beer-sipping and people-watching.
Aného, lies 2 km (1.25 mi) west of the Benin border. Four kilometres (2.5 mi) north of Aného, the village of Glidji is the site of one of the country's major oddities, the Guin Festival, held the second week of September.

Togoville

On the northern banks of Lake Togo, Togoville's chief drawcard is its history. It was from here that voodoo practitioners were taken as slaves to Haiti, now a major centre for the practice. It was also in Togoville that chief Mlapa III signed a peace treaty with the German explorer Nachtigal, which gave the Germans rights over all of Togo.
Today, the only attractions are the chief's house, the church and the Artisanal, an art co-operative consisting of several buildings with artisans working in each. Most of the men are wood carvers, whose pieces are neither cheap nor of high quality, so you'll probably be let down. The nearby church has some beautiful stained-glass windows and pictures of the gruesome deaths of famous African martyrs.
The last point of interest is the Maison Royale, where the local chief lives, holds court and parks his shiny gold Mercedes. Mlapa V Moyennant will show you around his compound, including a 'museum' of photos of his grandfather and his throne, though a gift in return will be expected.
The bilharzia-free waters of Lake Togo are good for sailing, sailboarding and water-skiing, and you might be able to talk some local fishermen into taking you along on their daily fishing excursion.

Fazao-Malfacassa National Park

The Forêt de Fazao lies in the beautiful Malfacassa mountains of central Togo, an area of thickly wooded savannah with a variety of waterfalls, cliffs and rocky hills. Most people come for the wildlife, but the park's been so poorly managed that your chances of seeing anything other than birds and monkeys are slim. If you're lucky, you might catch a glimpse of a waterbuck, duiker, hippo, oribi, buffalo, bush pig, wart hog, hyena, vervet, baboon and - if you're very lucky - maybe an elephant or lion.

Kara

The town of Kara, some 420 km (260 mi) north of Lomé in Kabyé country, enjoys its degree of prosperity mainly because President Eyadéma hails from Pya, a Kabyé village not far off. As a result of his nepotistic financing, the town now maintains his party's headquarters, two breweries and a modern radio station, plus some 40,000 people there to enjoy the fruits of favouritism. Originally laid out by Germans, it's a pleasant place to visit, but far more interesting is the area immediately north of town.
Northwest of Kara by 25 km (15 mi), the village of Sarakawa doesn't much warrant a special visit, but if you're passing through, stop to check out the statue of President Eyadéma pointing to the spot where his plane went down in 1974. The inscription - and his expression - say, 'They almost killed me here'.
Try not to miss the Mont Kabyé region, roughly 15 km (10 mi) northeast of Kara as the crow flies. The area's one of Togo's most scenic spots, and beyond that there are several villages where traditional crafts are still practiced - look into Landa and Kétao for their craft markets, Farendé for its metalwork and Pagouda for its music. Kara and environs are roughly eight hours' drive from Lomé.
   

Kéran National Park

Togo's second major natural attraction during the dry season is the Parc National de la Kéran, about 530 km (330 mi) north of Lomé. Be prepared to do some hoop-jumping, though: it's crazy with restrictions.
Park officials will probably insist you take a guide during your drive through, and even then you are forbidden to stop your vehicle, speed or take pictures of the international highway cutting through the park (like you'd want to). In the past, rangers were known for giving steep fines frequently and arbitrarily. Taking more than 92 minutes to complete your 'tour' could be seen as evidence that you stopped along the way, while taking more than 92 minutes might mean you were speeding! Fortunately, they're not so ticket-happy now as they used to be.
Unless you're very lucky, you won't see many animals. If you happen to come during a brushfire, you may catch site of an antelope or two and maybe a couple of monkeys bounding out of its path. If your karma's really shining, look for elephant, giraffe, hippo and various birds such as storks, cranes and marabous. Lions are extremely scarce, if not nonexistent.

Malfacassa Zone de Chasse

Next to the Fazao-Malfacassa National Park, the Malfacassa Zone de Chassse is an excellent area for hiking. From the mountain tops, you can see the countryside roll away for kilometres, and there's a better chance of seeing elephants, especially during the dry season. Two things to watch out for: hungry lions and hunters in the dry season. In the rainy season you won't get shot, but slogging through the muddy forests can be a challenge to your patience. Fazao-Malfacassa lies some 330 km (205 mi) north of Lomé, a seven-hour trip by bus.

Valley of the Tamberma

About 30 km (20 mi) south of Kéran on the international route, the village of Kandé marks the northern end of the most scenic stretch of that highway. More importantly, it's also the jumping off point for visits to the valley of the Tamberma people, some 30 km (20 mi) to the east. Most travellers without vehicles end up walking the dirt-track distance to the Tamberma villages, which is not only more interesting, but tends to afford them a warmer reception once they arrive.
A typical Tamberma compound, called a tata, consists of a series of towers connected by a thick wall with only one doorway to the outside. In days past, the castle-like nature of the structures helped ward off invasions by neighbouring tribes and, in the late-19th century, Germans. Inside, there's a huge elevated terrace of clay-covered logs where the inhabitants cook, dry their millet and corn, and spend most of their leisure time.

They use the cone-topped towers for storing grains and other rooms for sleeping, bathing and, during the rainy season, cooking; animals are kept downstairs, also protected from the rain. Built of clay, wood and straw, the structures stay fairly cool all day long, unlike the modern cement dwellings in less traditional villages.
Many Tamberma, who are usually scantily clad, get irritated at tourists gawking at them, but if you keep this in mind and play your cards right, you may be invited into one of their compounds. You'll find the interior very dark, with just enough light to find your way around. Look for fetish animal skulls on the walls and ceilings and a tiny altar for sacrificing small animals.