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Mythical Dolakha
Dolakha
has it all for the inquiring and the attentive. If you are with someone who
knows the area like his palm-lines, there is every chance that you will soon
understand the changing ethos of the place. The townís neat and well-regulated
life steeped in age-old traditions.
The fresh air, the
tourist spots that are almost voluble about their ancient tales, and the simple,
believing people immediately send to rest the typical desperation of the
resident of a metropolis. Perhaps that is why the Maoists spared the town,
influenced by the spell of its feminine beauty.
In
ancient times when Nepal had a profitable trade relationship with Tibet, this
was the route that merchants used. It was then that this town rose to
prosperity. There are still some houses belonging to those times. According to
some locals, the town has more or less faithfully maintained its past
appearance. Apparently, as soon as trade and commerce dried up, Dolakha ceased
to age. Despite the time-ravaged houses, the town is young, and so are its sons
who constitute one of the most reliable work forces for odd jobs in the capital.
When Laxman was injured
and the great ape-god Hanuman was asked to bring a certain medicinal herb
for the rescue, the mighty ape-god hovered on the sky above Dolakha, say the
locals. Probably the beauty of the region dulled his sense of judgement and he
ended up taking a chunk of a hill near the Gaurishanker mountain. "You can
still see a chunk missing there," says Rakesh Shrestha of Ccho-Rolpa Tours
and Tavels. And even though you cannot clearly make out the pointed spot due to
the distance, you will be surprised to find that your mind has all of a sudden
acquired extra creativity. In a flash of a second, you have conjured up the
image of the ape-god performing that wondrous feat.
That is not all. The Bhimeswor
temple is not a new name to the god-fearing throughout the nation. People
pour in every week from the capital and from various other districts to offer
prayers to the God. During their visit, they donít forget to ask one famous
question, "Is the God sweating?" For they all have heard that if
Bhimeswor sweats, that means something big is to happen. And that may be good or
bad. Legend has it that the despairing Lord Shiva traveled though this
area, carrying the corpse of His beloved Sati Devi. The corpse of the
goddess had decayed so badly that a piece of her flesh detached and fell down
the gorges immediately north of Dolakha. Thus sprang up the temple of Tripura
Sundari. Talk to the priest and he will confide that a certain golden icon
was stolen from this beautiful temple years ago. Hence, the misfortune that has
befallen the country ever since.
Though decrepit with
lack of maintenance, the Manjushree Park. will spring up to life as soon
as you step in. It will start whispering love-poetry through the branches of its
old and wise trees. If you have an inclination to pen down verses, you might
even end up writing some poems. But be careful, the ground is slippery. The dry
grass will try its best to upset your balance. But then, it is a harmless
mischief. Even if you slip and fall down six times or even a dozen times as I
did, donít curse the area. For there are forest-gods hovering around, and you
might end-up infuriating them.
Quite
naturally, as Dolakha has been at peace since a long time. And the logic of
conflict is something that they cannot understand, unless as some form of
madness, spiritual illness, or moral pestilence.
copyright © DolakhaNepal 2004
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