In adding translucent pearls of tapioca to the mushroom broth in this recipe,
we've borrowed one of chef Daniel Boulud's methods for giving body to a light sauce.

For mushroom sauce
1 small leek (white and pale green parts only), chopped
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 medium carrot, chopped
1/2 medium onion, chopped
1 garlic clove
1/4 cup dry white wine
2 cups water
1 teaspoon soy sauce
1 fresh flat-leaf parsley sprig
1 fresh thyme sprig
1 Turkish or 1/2 California bay leaf
1 tablespoon crumbled dried porcini*
1 tablespoon quick-cooking tapioca
For saut�ed mushrooms
1/2 tablespoon unsalted butter
1/2 tablespoon olive oil
6 oz mixed fresh mushrooms, such as oyster and chanterelle, trimmed and
halved lengthwise or quartered if large
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon black pepper
1 celery rib, thinly sliced diagonally

For skate
1 1/2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1/4 teaspoon curry powder
2 (5- to 6-oz) pieces skate fillet, halved crosswise if large
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon black pepper
1 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter

Make broth:
Wash chopped leek well in a bowl of cold water, agitating it, then lift out and pat dry.
Heat oil in a 3- to 4-quart heavy saucepan over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking,
then saut� leek, carrot, onion, and garlic clove, stirring frequently,
until vegetables are soft and well browned, about 10 minutes.
Stir in wine and deglaze saucepan by boiling, stirring and scraping up any brown bits, 1 minute.

Add water, soy sauce, parsley, thyme, bay leaf, and porcini and simmer,
uncovered, until liquid is reduced to 3/4 cup, about 25 minutes.
Pour through a fine-mesh sieve into a glass measure, lightly pressing
on and then discarding solids. Transfer to a small saucepan.
If you have more than 3/4 cup, boil strained liquid a few minutes to reduce.

Saut� fresh mushrooms:
Heat butter and oil in a 10-inch heavy skillet until hot but not smoking,
then saut� mushrooms with salt and pepper, stirring, until just tender and golden brown, about 4 minutes.
Add celery and saut� until bright green and crisp-tender, about 2 minutes.
Remove from heat and keep warm, covered with foil.

Finish sauce and saut� skate:
Bring broth to a simmer, then remove from heat and stir in tapioca. Let stand,
covered, 10 to 15 minutes.

While sauce is standing, stir together flour and curry powder in a shallow bowl.
Pat fish dry and sprinkle with salt and pepper, then dredge in flour mixture,
shaking off excess and transferring to a plate as dredged.

Heat butter in a 12-inch heavy skillet over moderately high heat until foam subsides,
then saut� fish, turning over once, until golden brown and just cooked through,
about 5 minutes total.

Reheat sauce, then season with salt and pepper.
Serve fish with saut�ed mushrooms and sauce.

Cooks' note:
Broth (without tapioca) can be made 2 days ahead and cooled completely,
uncovered, then chilled, covered.

*Available at specialty foods shops.

Makes 2 servings.