Mexican Matzoh Balls?


A surprising — and irresisible — south-of-the-border Passover Intro / Tips and recipes

Rosa Mexicano's Lincoln Center, New York, branch

***RELATED LINKS

Santibañez will be teaching classes on Mexican Passover cooking in New York and Washington, D.C., on April 23 and 24. For more information, visit www.rosamexicano.com.

An upscale Mexican restaurant is not the first place you'd think of to hold a seder. But walk into any of Rosa Mexicano's New York or Washington, D.C., branches during the week of Passover, and you'll have your pick of dishes created just for the holiday, from tropical charoset to pears poached in cinnamon-scented red wine and served with a spicy sabayon sauce.

Why this unexpected — and inspired — pairing? "We have many Jewish friends, both in Mexico and here in the U.S.," says culinary director Roberto Santibañez. In fact, Jews have an historic presence in his native land — Mexico City is the center of a community of more than 40,000 that dates back to the Spanish Inquisition.

Adds Lila Louli, a Mexican-Jewish food writer who gave Santibañez recipe advice, "Over the centuries, Jews have sought refuge in Mexico from many different areas, including Germany, Eastern Europe, Spain, Turkey, and Syria. You'll find both Sephardic and the Ashkenazic cooking here, often combined with Mexican influences."

Inspired by this lesser-known aspect of his country's heritage, Santibañez created colorful, spicy Passover dishes that marry Jewish and traditional Mexican flavors with contemporary innovation. Now in their third year at Rosa Mexicano, the specials have proven an enormous hit. "Some patrons have even reserved private rooms to hold their own seders at the restaurant," says Santibañez. "We're happy to cater the entire thing, seder plate and all."

We talked Santibañez into sharing his recipes and tips with readers at home. For his advice on making your seder a fiesta to remember, read on >. — Sarah Kagan

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