FRIED BABY ARTICHOKES

FAST
TOTAL TIME: 50 MIN
SERVES: 10
This recipe is based on a preparation that originated in Rome's Jewish ghetto. It is one of Palma D'Orazio's most requested dishes at her New York City restaurant, Palma. Frying brings out the artichokes' sweetness.

Ingredients
20 baby artichokes (about 4 ounces each)
Extra-virgin olive oil, for frying
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1/4 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
1/4 cup chopped parsley

Directions
With a small, sharp knife, cut off the artichoke stems. Snap off the leaves until you reach the inner leaves. Cut off the top third of the artichokes and trim any tough parts. Quarter the artichokes lengthwise.

In a medium saucepan, heat 2 inches of olive oil to 300 degrees. Fry the artichokes in the hot oil in batches until richly browned and crisp, about 2 minutes per batch. Drain on paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Transfer the artichokes to small plates or a shallow serving bowl. Sprinkle with the cheese and parsley and serve.

GREEN-CHILE CHICKEN THIGHS WITH ARUGULA SALAD

ACTIVE TIME: 45 MIN TOTAL TIME: 2 HRS
SERVES: 6

Adam Perry Lang, owner of Daisy May's BBQ USA in New York City, tasted New Mexican Hatch green-chile powder for the first time last year during one of his "flavor recon missions," he says. "I was absolutely amazed by the color, fruitiness and bright, floral taste. The powder isn't a substitute for fresh chiles; it's a whole different flavor experience." It took Perry Lang nearly two months to track down a purveyor, dagiftbasket.com, which he calls "my best-kept secret." Now he sprinkles the powder on pork, grilled corn and poultry, including these delightful, crisp chicken thighs.

Ingredients
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
3 tablespoons New Mexican Hatch green-chile powder or other mild green-chile powder
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon dried oregano, preferably Mexican
Salt and freshly ground pepper
12 chicken thighs on the bone, trimmed of excess skin
2 tablespoons coarsely chopped flat-leaf parsley
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1/4 pound baby arugula
2 tablespoons cilantro leaves
1/2 pound queso fresco or farmer cheese, crumbled (2 cups)
Creamy Grits for serving

Directions
Preheat the oven to 325 degrees.
Spread the butter in a medium roasting pan.
In a small bowl, combine the chile powder, coriander and oregano with a generous pinch of salt and pepper.
Sprinkle the seasonings generously over the chicken thighs, pressing to help them adhere.

Transfer the chicken to the roasting pan, skin side down. Cover the chicken with foil and roast for 1 hour.
Turn the chicken thighs and roast, uncovered, for 25 minutes longer,
until they are cooked through and the pan juices are slightly reduced.

Light the broiler. Broil the chicken 6 inches from the heat for 2 to 3 minutes,
until the skin is golden and crisp.
Pour the pan juices into a bowl and stir in the parsley and 1 tablespoon of lemon juice.
Season the pan juices with salt and pepper.

In a medium bowl, whisk the remaining 1 tablespoon of lemon juice with the
olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Add the arugula, cilantro and queso fresco and season with salt and pepper.

Spoon the Creamy Grits into shallow bowls and top with the chicken thighs. Mound the salad alongside, drizzle the pan juices all around and serve.

WINE: Oak fermentation adds weight to Kim Crawford's 2005 Marlborough Pinot Gris,
a round, appley white with enough body to stand up to the bold-flavored chicken.

SLOW-BRAISED OSSO BUCO


MAKE-AHEAD
ACTIVE TIME: 1 HR TOTAL TIME: 4 HRS 30 MIN
SERVES: 10

Osso buco translates as "hole in the bone,"
referring to the delectable marrow in the center of the veal shank bone.
This Lombardian specialty is ideal for entertaining because the flavor
of the dish only improves if it's made in advance.

Ingredients
10 pieces of veal shank, about 3/4 pound each, tied
Salt and freshly ground pepper
All-purpose flour, for dusting
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
6 medium carrots, cut into 1/4-inch dice
4 celery ribs, cut into 1/4-inch dice
2 large onions, cut into 1/4-inch dice
1 1/2 cups dry white wine
4 cups water
1/4 cup tomato paste

Directions
Season the veal shanks with salt and pepper. Dust them with flour, shaking off the excess.
In a large skillet, heat the olive oil.
Add 5 of the veal shanks and cook over moderate heat until richly browned, about 4 minutes per side.
Transfer the shanks to a roasting pan that's large enough to hold them all in a single layer without crowding.
Repeat with the remaining shanks.

Preheat the oven to 300 degrees. Add the carrots, celery and onions to the skillet.
Cover and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 12 minutes.
Add the wine and boil uncovered over high heat until reduced to 1/3 cup, about 5 minutes.
Stir in the water and tomato paste and bring to a boil.
Pour the contents of the skillet over the shanks.

Cover the roasting pan with foil.
Transfer the shanks to the oven and braise for 2 hours and 45 minutes, or until the meat is very tender.
Transfer the shanks to a large, rimmed baking sheet.
Discard the strings and cover the shanks with foil.
Increase the oven temperature to 350 degrees.

Strain the liquid from the roasting pan into a large saucepan, reserving the vegetables.
Boil the liquid over high heat until reduced to 4 cups, about 25 minutes.
Return the vegetables to the sauce and season with salt and pepper.

Meanwhile, reheat the veal shanks in the oven until hot, about 7 minutes.
Transfer the shanks to plates, ladle the sauce on top and serve.

MAKE AHEAD: The shanks can be refrigerated in their sauce for up to 3 days.
Add a little water to the pan before reheating.

WINE: This rich, meaty dish needs a rich, meaty wine, such as Di Majo Norante's
strawberry-scented 2004 Sangiovese, a wonderful value red produced in the southern Italian region
of Molise by superstar consultant Riccardo Cotarella.

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