You can tell this recipe hails from a tropical environment because of the way
the first bite of chiles causes a light sweat to break out on your brow.
Then a breeze blows by, and� ahh�you're instantly cooled off and refreshed,
able to fully enjoy the sweetness of plump shrimp and an evolving harmony of spices.

Active time: 45 min Start to finish: 45 min

Servings: Makes 6 servings

Ingredients

6 to 8 fresh serrano chiles (2 ounces total) 20 fresh curry leaves
5 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 tablespoon finely chopped peeled ginger
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 teaspoon whole mustard seeds
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
1/4 teaspoon ground turmeric
1 medium onion, chopped
1 pound tomatoes, chopped
2 1/2 ounces finely grated fresh or dried unsweetened coconut
(1 cup; visit gourmet.com for how to extract meat from fresh coconut)
2 pounds large shrimp in shell, peeled and deveined

Accompaniment: white rice

Preparation

Quarter chiles lengthwise (seed and devein if you want less heat).
Cook chiles, curry leaves, garlic, and ginger in oil in a 12-inch heavy skillet
over medium-high heat, stirring,
until very fragrant and chiles are just softened, 1 to 2 minutes.

Reduce heat to medium and add spices, 1 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper.
Cook, stirring, until mustard seeds just begin to pop, 1 to 2 minutes.

Add onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 4 minutes.

Add tomatoes and coconut, then cook, covered, until tomatoes are softened, 4 to 6 minutes.

Add shrimp and cook, uncovered, stirring, until just cooked through, 3 to 4 minutes.
Season with salt and pepper.