Bentigodi (Osteria da Andrea)
Cannaregio 1423
Callesele
041-716-269
Closed Sunday
Bentigodi (also known as Osteria da Andrea) is a great choice for vegetarians. It offers superfresh seasonal vegetables such as Sant'Eurasmo artichokes, Treviso radicchio, winter squash, or asparagus from the nearby Rialto market, treated with the same respect usually reserved for fish and seafood. Look for these Venetian classics: pasta with squid, gnochetti with fish sauce, braised cuttlefish, liver with onions, or sausage � all paired with polenta. Try ricotta with berries and chestnut honey or panna cotta for dessert. The decor is rustic and understated. The wine list is a joy, mostly from Veneto and Friuli.
La Cantina
Campo San Felice
041-522-8250
Closed Sunday
La Cantina is the kind of casual place you wish were around the corner at home. Not far from Venice's railroad station, it is a great stop for a glass of wine and fine cicchetti � or a meal for those who are tired of fish. Owners Francesco (in the kitchen) and Andrea (in the dining rooms) take good care of their customers. Look for hearty soups, first-rate salumi, and artisanal cheeses. Andrea is willing to open almost any wine from his ample selection, making wine by the glass an incredible experience.
Cip's Club
Fondamenta de le Zitelle 10
Giudecca
041-240-8575
Closed January to March
Take the Hotel Cipriani's complimentary private launch from San Marco, then ask at the hotel's front desk to be directed to Cip's, its casual � if hardly cheap � restaurant. The ambience is clubby, Venetian-nautical, with a menu of local classics, seasonal specialties, and some of the best pizza in Venice. Conclude with Cippamisu, the hotel's version of tiramis�, topped with a chocolate gondola. Dine outdoors when the weather is inviting. This vista of Venice is one of the best views in the world.
Photo: Courtesy of Hotel Cipriani
Maschereta
Calle Lunga S.M. Formosa
Castello
041-523-0744
Closed Wednesday and Thursday
Maschereta ("Small Venetian Boat" in dialect) is a wine bar propelled by madman-sommelier Mauro Lorenzon. His favorite trick: lopping off the tops of Champagne bottles with a saber, a spectacle that never fails to liven up the house. A devoted following of wine lovers will drink anything that Mauro suggests � and you will, too, before the evening is over. Snack on Maschereta's cold food, including oysters; raw, smoked, or marinated fish; artisanal cheese; or salumi. The wine selection is exceptional, personal, and a delight to dig into.
Naranzaria
San Polo 130
041-724-1035
Closed Monday
Naranzaria is the Venetian name for that area of the Rialto market where oranges (an important item on ships of a maritime republic) are sold. In this fantastic location is a new osteria. Locals stop in for a bowl of super pasta-and-bean soup, polenta with Gorgonzola, or baccal�, and, at lunchtime, sushi prepared by a Japanese pro. The wine list is wonderful, with many intriguing wines by the glass. Dine at tables overlooking the Grand Canal whenever weather permits. The decor is attractive, and the place is packed with hip Venetians who stop off for a bowl of soup or some sushi.
Photo: Courtesy of Naranzaria