We modeled these hors d'oeuvres on the little bombs of flavor that Suzanne
Goin invented for her Los Angeles restaurant A.O.C. Each bite delivers a huge range of tastes
— sweet, salty, and smoky — all at the same time.
They're easy to make and completely irresistible; I can't think of a more
appealing tidbit to nibble on.

18 (1- by 1/4-inch) sticks Parmigiano-Reggiano (from a 1/2-lb piece)
18 pitted dates (preferably Medjool)
6 bacon slices, cut crosswise into thirds
Special equipment: 18 wooden picks

Put oven rack in middle position and preheat oven to 450°F.
Stuff 1 piece of cheese into each date, then wrap 1 piece of bacon around each date,
securing it with a pick. Arrange dates 1 inch apart in a shallow baking pan.

Bake 5 minutes, then turn dates over with tongs and bake until bacon is crisp, 5 to 6 minutes more.
Drain on a paper bag or parchment. Serve immediately.

Cooks' note:
Dates can be stuffed and wrapped in bacon 1 day ahead and chilled, covered.
Bring to room temperature before baking.

Makes 6 hors d'oeuvre servings.