HOW CHINCHILLAS MAKE FRIENDS WITH YOU

You will want to start with just letting the chinchilla get used to the normal activities of your home, so leave her alone for a few days while she does this. This, of course, will include her getting accustomed to her regular feeding and dusting time, at which time you will have your hands in her cage. Just go about the normal routine (and be sure to make it a regular time each evening- she will come to count on this timing), putting your hands in the cage as needed, moving slowly so as not to frighten your new family member. As soon as she is comfortable with your hands in the cage (this may or may not be on the first day) then start to offer her a few treats. It's best not to try to pick her up just yet. Give her a bit more time and then start placing the treat in the palm of your hand so that she has to partially climb into your hand. A few more tries and she should be willing to retrieve a treat from half way up your arm. Now she's ready for you to try holding her a bit.

 PICKING UP

Scoop your chinchilla up with one hand under her and one hand gently but securely on top. Chinchillas are most comfortable with the least restraint. She will fight it if she feels confined, but she needs to be safe, so just have a top hand available to prevent any dangerous leaps to the floor. Holding the base of her tail between the fingers of your bottom hand is a good idea. She may eventually feel comfortable just riding around on your shoulder, but this can take some time and some chinchillas just never like it.

Once your chinchilla is relaxed about her new home and being handled you can start letting her out for brief romps around the house. This certainly isn't necessary if she has a large cage with plenty of tiered shelves and a large wheel to get the exercise that is necessary for good health. If you do want to let her out, it's best to start with a small space like a bathroom, where you can easily catch her back up again. She should trust you well enough by now to allow you to pick her back up again without a chase, but one way or the other it is important not to "chase" her as she will then lose much of the trust she has built up with you. If she is reluctant to be picked up, move slowly to corner her, slowly putting your hands under her to scoop her up. This may take some patient perseverance at first, but within time she will anticipate it and not run away. Make sure that you give her something to look forward to after she is returned to her cage, like a treat or her dust bath.

HOW CHINCHILLAS MAKE FRIENDS WITH EACH OTHER

So, you want to get some chinchillas living together in the same cage?! If you've ever been told absolutes about chinchilla socialization (i.e.. Two males can never live together; once your chin has lived alone for a while you can never introduce a new one, etc.) - don't believe it ... at least not yet. Encouraging friendships between chinchillas can be either very easy, very difficult, impossible, or anywhere in between. The dynamics between any two or three (or more) chins is almost impossible to predict, so it's important to be prepared for anything. Some generalities can perhaps be made regarding age, gender, or relatives, but it's the individual personality of each chin that really affects the time required to get chinchillas buddied up and the long term success of relationships. No matter what combination of chins you are trying to socialize, you need to just start with the basic procedure.

YOUNG ANIMALS

As a general rule, younger animals are by far the easiest to introduce, especially right after weaning. As they get older their personalities develop more, along with their dominant/submissive tendencies. The submissiveness of the young animal is an aid in introducing him/her to an older animal as well. You do still need to be careful when introducing a younger animal to an older one. Watch them closely to make sure the baby is not being bullied.

Introducing older animals can be quite the different issue. Male + male is difficult if there are any females around (within smelling distance) but often easy in the absence of females. This also depends upon the age of the boys and how long (if at all) they've lived alone. Females can be quite the different issue as there are many variables - most of them hormonal. A female that is in heat, pregnant, or nursing can be rather unpredictable. Try putting two such "imbalanced" individuals together and you could be in for quite the challenge. If that's not enough, then go ahead and throw in a male! On the other hand, you could end up with two or three animals so ripe to be "in a family way" that they are quite open to being buddies with just about anybody. Now, throw in one more reality: a set of animals quite in love with each other cannot be counted on to love each other's offspring. New babies can always be at risk when left in a family so watch them closely. It seems only fair to also mention here that most male chinchillas make wonderful dads and it is such a joy to watch a whole family together. Adult females also can make wonderful aunts, nannies, and even nurse maids. Once again, it's hard to predict how chinnies will get along and you just have to try the basic procedure.

As I've already mentioned, whether you are introducing same or opposite gender animals can determine the degree of difficulty in doing so. Babies, no matter what gender, can almost always go together. Older same sex pairs are easiest in the absence of the opposite sex. The success of introducing male to female depends on sexual maturity and heat, pregnancy, and nursing cycles. No matter what the combination, try the basic procedure for introductions (have I mentioned this before?).

Related animals, when raised together from birth (or parent/child) can become life mates quite easily, although in adulthood almost all males will fight in the presence of females. Also, even related females can turn on each other's kits. The general rule is: continuously observe for any changes in your chins personalities that could indicate a need for separation.

If you visited my cage design page then you will recognize this picture. You will also be well aware of my emphasis on having a nice, large cage to make your chin friend happy. If you are now considering adding a new chin then your cage worries aren't over. You need another cage! It's usually best to introduce new chins in adjacent wire cages where the new friends can safely get used to the sight and smell of each other. Then, if they don't get along right away, you need a cage for separation. Last, but not least, if you are going to be breeding chins (realize I'm not recommending this unless you are very well informed about the responsibilities and risks involved) then you will need yet another cage for mom and kits as well as for kits once they are weaned.

The duplex design that I have for my cages works well for introducing chins as they can be easily separated if they aren't getting along and they each have a space that is "theirs" to feel safe in when they are together. Of course the drawback is that my divider is solid so they can't see and smell each other during periods of separation. I also own a few wire cages for socializing and separation and transportation needs.

Now, here's the real meat of the matter - just how do you go about introducing a set of chinchillas? First of all, expect some chasing, fur biting, and urine spraying. If you start getting nose, toe, and ear injuries the chins should be separated for a time.

I'm going to lay out a basic method that works well for me and include some options along the way. Then we'll finish with a few tricks and helps for those problem chins.

So, you've tried the basic procedure and your chinchillas are still trying to destroy each other?
Don't give up just yet. There are still a few tricks of the trade to fall back on:

"NEUTRAL TERRITORY"

When introducing any two chinchillas for the first time it's important to do so in neutral territory. This should be a cage or open space that is completely free of any smell of either of these chins. It's nice if it is the cage that they will be living in together permanently. Another good choice is a small open space like a closet or bathroom, especially if it provides places for the chins to get away from each other if either one is feeling pursued or hassled.

"TIME OUT"

When you have two chins that seem determined to hate each other for life, there is usually one particular chin that is the primary aggressor. He/she should be the one to be removed from the cage and left alone to reflect on his solitude for a while. By nature chinchillas are herd animals and therefore are really happiest with other chins, despite the fact that they aren't quite acting that way. Taken out of their native habitat and put in a cage has a way of getting in the way of their natural tendencies, but this is a good time to use those instinctive tendencies to your advantage. As you continue to reintroduce him into the group cage he will probably feel somewhat motivated to work things out. Not only that, but any rights to seniority that he may have had will subside as the other chin(s) have more time to get territorial about the group cage from which he is being excluded.

"TIGHT QUARTERS"

This trick is usually pretty fool proof for me. I got the idea from Dea at Pacific Northwest Chinchillas. All it takes is a plastic storage container measuring about 15"L x 11"W x 8"H with a tight fitting lid with holes drilled in it (or a similar container). Put a few inches of chin dust or pine shavings in the bottom and prepare to do battle. I only use this for problem chins, although it would certainly be a good introduction for any new pair. The theory is that because chins tend to attack from above, putting a pair together in a tight, low ceilinged container seriously dampens any advantage that one might have over another. They can still nip at each other's ears and noses but usually don't as they both feel so vulnerable being right in each other's faces.
When I have a difficult pair that I'm working with I'll first put them together in these tight quarters for 5 - 20 minutes (depending upon whether or not they are actually hurting each other). The dust or bedding material provides a distraction as well as an absorbent layer if they fall back on urine spraying (also difficult in these tight quarters). They generally just have a standoff, barking at each other and occasionally striking at ears and noses (watch those ear bites - a little bite can cause a lot of bleeding as well as a permanent scar). Once they've been confined for the designated period of time (which should increase daily) I let them out into their cage for as long as they will get along. The longest I've had to continue this process is about 10 days before the chins are getting along well enough to stay together full time. They may continue to avoid each other for a while, but in due time they are snuggling together.

"LAP TIME"

Here's another trick that I learned from another chin lover - thanks Nila! When chinchillas, especially new ones, are being held by you they are generally more concerned with what's going with you than what's going on with each other. This makes for a nice opportunity for you to get them together without the fighting. They will have a chance to be getting accustomed to the sight and smell of each other as well as the fact that it truly is possible for them to be near each other (even touching each other!) without squabbling over seniority. Repeated encounters on your lap should serve to improve their relationship with each other as well as with you!